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Cornell University LibrarySB 413.C55G23Modern chrysanthemum '="''"',^,,!,?|,n,'"''

3 1924 002 803 165 .


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Cornell UniversityLibrary

The original of tiiis book is inthe Cornell University Library.

There are no known copyright restrictions inthe United States on the use of the text.

http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924002803165


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MODERNCHRYSANTHEMUMCULTUREFOR THE MILLION.

A Handbook tor the Amatehe and Cottage Gahdbnek

By GEORGE GARNEE,SILVEE MEDALLIST FOR HIGH-CLASS CHRYSANTHEMUM,

VEGETABLE AND FRUIT CULTURE; HEAD GARDENERTO A. C. DRUMMOND, ESQ., CADLAND PARK,

SOUTHAMPTON.

Mltb illustrations.

LIVEEPOOL

:

BLAKE & MACKENZIE, PRINTEES AND PUBLISHERS.1897.

[all ItlQHIS BEaEAVUDCOPYRIGHT.]9


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PREFACE,THE writer of this work is well known to theundersigned as a most "successful grower ofChrysanthemums. Any information from his pencannot fail to be of service, and if the details containedin this most useful book be acted upon success will beassured. I have known the author for many years, andmust admit I have never met with a grower of thispopular plant who has devoted more care and study tomaster their requirements than he has. From takingcuttings to the flowering stages, he is equally keen.As a grower or exhibitor ; when residing in thisneighbourhood, he had no equal (note the principalprizes he has won). His awards, when acting as judgeat exhibitions are seldom questioned, this duty beingmade easy for him by his own practical knowledge.The work will be hailed with delight by all who havea love for, and a desire to further the interest in.Chrysanthemum culture. Particularly do I recom-mend it to amateurs, young beginners, and marketgrowers.

ALFEED SKINNER.HiGHCLiFFE Estate,

Christchukch, Hants.


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PRINCIPALPRIZES WON BY THE AUTHOR.

Two Silver Cups, open to all England.

Two FlKST-CLASS CERTIFICATES.Four Medals, and many First Prizes

at some of the leading exhibitionsin the Country.


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INTEODUCTION.

THE enthusiasm inspired by this deservedly popularflower instead of diminishing increases yearly.

Amateurs and Cottagers are nowtaking a keener interestin the cultivation and exhibiting of Chrysanthemumsthan formerly, and although this little book is writtenchiefly for those who grow the plants for exhibition,both large and small growers will find the instructionsembodied in its pages a help to them, as the onlydifference between growing for exhibition and forhome use is solely that the plants in the latter caseare, as a rule, grown more bushy in shape to producea larger number of smaller blooms. But in manyinstances large blooms of first-class quality are covetedfor conservatory decoration at home, and in all cases,if the right methods be not adopted, such bloomsare not forthcoming, notwithstanding all the labourwhich may have been bestowed upon the plants tobring about that result.

We have endeavoured to give in this book whatwe consider the most important essentials (which we


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have found to be absolutely necessary in our ownpractical experience) in the routine of culture andgeneral management of the plants and flowers, inas few words as possible.

The attention of our readers is especially directedto the growing custom of exhibiting groups ofChrysanthemums with and without foliage plants,and also of cut blooms of Chrysanthemums andautumn - tinted foliage, for effect. Some of thearrangements which have come under our noticehave, indeed, been charming, and the large numberof people who gather around and admire themtestifies to the popularity of such exhibits.

We would like to encourage the use of Chrysan-themums as summer bedding plants in large gardens,especially where there are large borders to be filledup. As dot plants in long borders, as clumps bythemselves, and as odd plants in the cottager's garden,Chrysanthemums are most useful. Further, we would]desire to say that exhibitors of some experience mayfind hints and reminders in this little book whichwill be a help to them in carrying out the work'which they all love so well.

The history of the Chrysanthemum is not dealt|with in these pages, but only the culture, and thatis given in plain languagesuch as we hope willbe understood by all growers.

G. G.


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Group of Chrysanthemums.


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INDEXFAQE.Anemone Chryaanthemums... 61Arrangement of blooms 43

of blooms and foliage ... 49of a group of plants 48

Blooms, arranging on boards.. 43dressing opening 40final dressing of 43labelling 45preserving expanded ... 42staging 46taking to shows 46

Boards, arrangingbloomson... 43Bushes, toppingplantsjto form 6

branch_of, not disbudded 11Compost for first potting 4

for second potting 8for final potting 19Crown Bud, to secure taking. 31swelling 33

Cuttings, illustrations of 1, 2Damping of the petals 38Dressing opening blooms 40

of the blooms, final 43Early Chrysanthemums 63Feeding 28Fire heat 37Flowering buds, securing the.. 31

'- retarding the 34Frames, plants in 5Group of Chrysanthemums ... vii.Incurved Chrysanthemums ... 57Queen of England .. 7

Jap. William Falconer... 51Indoors, Chrysanthemums ... 35Insects 26Japanese Anemone Chrysan-

themums 60Chrysanthemums 52Yellow Dragon ... 18

FACE.Japanese Chrysanthemum,

Golden Thread 47Madame Carnot ... 23Judging 50Labelling the blooms 45Market, Chrysanthemums for 63

treatment of plants for... 11Mildew 26Open-air, placing the plants in 14Open borders, planting in 9Petals, damping of the 38Pompon Chrysanthemums ... 61Anem. Chrysanthemums 62Potting, first 4second 8

intermediate 14final 19

Preserving expanded blooms ... 42Propagation 1Eeflexed Chrysanthemums ... 60EtoiledeLyon ...39Shows, taking the blooms to. . . 46Single Chrysanthemums 62Staging blooms and foliage ... 49blooms on boards 46Summer Chrysanthemums ... 62

months, treatment in ... 2tTable of management 52Terminal bud, taking 32Top dressing 30Topping plants to form bushes 6Treatment, first potting 4

second potting 8intermediate potting 14final potting 19during summer months.. 24of Incurved varieties ...67of Japanese varieties ... 62

Ventilation 37


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Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million.

PEOPAGATION.WE are not in favour of rooting the cuttings ofChrysanthemums too early, especially if handsomelooking plants with a large number of blooms is thedesire of the grower. Late varieties should be rooted inDecember, and the earlier ones in January and February.Select the strongest cuttingsnot the soft, sappy ones,but those which are sturdy in growth and have no budshowing in the point. Take off each cutting just under

or above the soil in the pot(not oS the old stem of theplant, except in cases ofnecessity), and under a joint,afterwards removing the leaffrom that joint also. Havethe compost in which it isintended to root the cuttingsin readiness, and pots 2Jinches in diameter (washedclean inside and out). Assoil used for the purpose ofrooting will be retainedthroughout the season, it isimportant that it be of goodquality. Loam and leafmould, in equal proportions,with sufficient sand to make

Showing a Chrysanthemum cutting ^V,- rnasa nr^rnna in siiit.aVilpInserted singly in athumb pot. with coarA '^ ^^^^ porOUS, IS SUltaDle.rcSt"?*"^;%*'%XX.K?.* Manure in any form at this""our^osZ"""' """""*' ^"^ "'""''" stage is not needed.


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2 Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million.Crock the pots with one piece of broken potsherd,

and a little dry moss ; fill them with the prepared soil,scatter a small quantity of sand on the surface, make ahole with a small blunt dibber in the centre, and insertthe cuttings. One in each pot is sufficient, and makethe soil firm around it. Sprinkle a little more sand over

Showing cuttings inserted around the side of the pot. Best adoptedfor grouiing the plants as bushes, and for market.

the top of the soil in the pots, water gently but thoroughly,and place the pots in a cool frame on a hard bed of coalashes, or plunge the pots to the rim in the ashes. If acool frame is not available, the pots may be stood on astage close to the glass in a greenhouse or vinery. Boxesin lieu of movable frames will answer the purpose if they


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Chhtsanthemum Culture for the Million. 3are 9 inches deep, and squares of glass are placed on thetop. The aim should be to keep the cuttings air-tighttill they are rooted, as they will then strike more quicklythan if allowed to flag.

Occasionally sprinkle the cuttings over-head with tepidwater to keep them fresh. Wipe the glass and the insideof the frame dry, daily. If the soil in the pots becomestoo dry, water thoroughly with tepid rain water. Shadefrom bright sunshine.

Some varieties will root sooner than others. Whenthe cuttings are sufficiently rooted, remove them to anotherframe, or shelf, where they will be exposed to the fulllight. Guard against frost. At this stage from 40 to45 degrees of heat should be maintained. Avoid hightemperatures at all stages of growth, as Chrysanthemumsare not benefited, but weakened, by forcing, or an unduecloseness of atmosphere after they are rooted. Sturdygrowth should be encouragedshort jointed, showingplenty of strength. Label each variety correctly, andmake a list of each section, stating the number of cuttingsput in (which should always be a little in excess of whatis finally required), so that a selection of the strongestand best rooted plants may be made.

-^


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Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million.

FIRST POTTING,PRINCIPAL PARTS OF COMPOST.


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Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million. 5plants will soon fasten upon them. The soil must be ina nice moist condition, but not too wet. After the workof potting is completed stand the plants in a cool frameon a bed of ashes, about 15 inches from the glass.

MANAGEMENT OF THE PLANTS IN FRAMES.Keep the frame close for a few days after placing

the repotted plants in it. Shade them slightly from verybright sunshine. Water sparingly at first; a light syringingeach day, at noon, if the sun is bright will be beneficialto the plants. When the danger of severe flagging ofthe leaves is over, and the weather permits, give a littleair and cease shading. If mildew is observed on theplants, rub flour of sulphur on the afiected parts withthe thumb and fingers.

Grow the plants as hardy as, possible, admitting air onall favourable occasions, but avoid subjecting them todraughts. They will at this stage make rapid progress ingrowth, and no check must occur. During the brightsunny days which will at this time of the year becomemore frequent, great care and attention will be requiredin the management of Chrysanthemum plants.

Being in small pots, and the sun shining stronglyupon them, the soil soon becomes dry, and flagging ofthe foliage results. It will be advisable to examine theplants several times each day and water any which mayrequire it, rather than leave them till a fixed time andthen water all indiscriminately. Use tepid rain water. Ifhot water from a boiler or other vessel is not availablefor warming the water in bulk before using it, keep alarge can full in the frame in which the plants are growing,the water will thus always be of the same temperature


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6 Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million.as that in the frames. By adopting this simple plan,risk of check to the growth of the plants will be greatlylessened. Should mildew appear on the leaves, applyflour of sulphur as before advised. Spells of brightsunshine and cold winds are generally followed by blackand green fly, which infests the points of the shoots, andif not eradicated they soon cripple the plants. Tobaccopowder lightly sprinkled on them while the plants are dampwill quickly clear out the enemy. Afterwards syringe thepowder ofif with clean water, which will greatly benefitthe plants. Some of the tallest of the plants will nowrequire slender stakes to support them. Due allowancemust be made for the swelling and lengthening of thestems of the plants, therefore do not tie the ligatures tootight. Pay regular attention to airing, and when theweather is favourable take the lights off altogether. Theclimatic conditions are not favourable when the sun iswarm, and at the same time a cold east wind is blowing

;

more harm than good would be done to the plants if thelights are removed under such circumstances. Tilt thelights so as to avoid draughts, and wait for more genialweather before exposing the plants fully.

TOPPINa PLANTS TO POEM BUSHES.If it is the intention of the grower to eventuallypossess a large plant with many blooms, the point of

each one should be taken off when the plants are about6 inches high, say in February. Three or four new shootswill grow afterwards, these will in due time produce a bud,each of which should forthwith be removed. Three moreyoung growths may be selected from each parent shootand trained to stakes. After the points of the shoots have


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; Chrysanthemum Culture foe the Million. 7been removed, the soil in the pots should be kept somewhatdrier until fresh growth begins. Thus one plant willproduce a much larger number of flowers, but of coursesmaller than would be the case if only one stem was retainedtill the first natural break, and from that period three moreonly, to produce as many blooms. The potting, tying,feeding, and general treatment in other matters of bush-grown plants should be much the same as that advised forthose grown for the production of large blooms only,excepting the pinching out of side shoots which on thelatter must be promptly removed as fast as they appear.

Queen of England, Blush, Inc.


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8 Chrysanthemum Cultdee for the Million.

SECOND POTTING.PRINCIPAL PABTS OF COMPOST.

Loam.Leaf soil.Horse manure.

Finely ground Bones.Soot.Ordinary wood ashes.

Chrysanthemum ashes.Size of pots, 5 and 6 inch.

WE have just described how to top plants which it isintended shall be grown on to form bushes. Theseplants will now be in the right condition to re-pot. Inmost cases the plants in the general collection will bein 3J-inch pots, and will require to be shifted into 5-inchand 6-inch ones. Put the weaker growing varieties intothe former, and the strongest into the latter size. Aricher compost may, with advantage, be used at thisre-potting. A suitable mixture will be the following, viz.

:

fresh loamwith the grass in it just decayedpulled inpieces, and the finest soil sifted out. Sweet leaf soil andsand jshould be added to the above in the followingproportions, viz. : two parts loam, one part leaf soil, andone part old mushroom bed manure, or fresh horse manurea 6-inch potful of ground bones, one of soot, and one ofwood ashes, to every barrow-load of compost. If thestems of the old Chrysanthemums are burnt, and a 3-inchpotful of the ashes also added, the plants will be muchbenefited, and the foliage will assume a darker green colourand have more substance in it. Mix all the parts together


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Chrysanthemum Culture foe the Million. 9and keep the compost in a shed, for if wetted with rainit will clog together and form a mass in the pots, whichthe young roots will not readily penetrate. Pot morefirmly than hitherto, using clean pots and have sounddrainage in them. All plants which are, up to this stage,without the support of stakes should have some placedto them forthwith and be neatly tied. Return the plantswhen potted to the frames, and treat them as advisedat the last potting.

The variety, Mrs. Alpheus Hardy (a white, hairy, anddelicate sort), must have pots smaller than the abovementioned to grow in, and should be potted in one partloam and two parts leaf soil, with which plenty of sandand a small quantity of old mortar have been mixed.No manure must be used in the soil in which this varietyis grown ; also pot less firmly. It is more satisfactory ifgrown in a cool greenhouse during the summer months.PLANTING CHRYSANTHEMUMS IN OPEN BORDERS.Some varieties are most useful for planting out of doors

where they will flower freely. Flora, deep yellow; veryfree-flowering. This is a Pompon variety and flowers early.Other Pompon varieties suitable are M. W. Piercy, orange-red, 2J feet high ; Prederic Marronet, bronze, 2 feet ; Mrs.CuUingford, white, 2 feet; Strathmeath, rose, 2 feet;Pr^oocite, red, 2 feet; Canari, yellow, 18 inches. SuitableJapanese varieties are Madame Desgranges, white ; its sportG. Wermig, yellow, 2 feet; Harvest Home, bronze, 2^feet; Carrie Denny, amber, 2 feet; M. G. Griinerwald,white, 2 feet ; Goldmine, rich bronze, 2 feet ; Roi desPrecoces, deep crimson, 2 feet ; and Ryecroft Glory, richyellow, 3 feet. These are a selection of varieties which, if


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10 Cheysanthemum Cultdee foe the Million.planted on sheltered borders, will give a wealth of bloomin the autumn very useful for cutting purposes.

Where these autumn-flowering sorts are planted out-side, provision should be made to protect them from earlyfrosts, and to facilitate this work we would advise thata place be chosen and the Chrysanthemums planted ingroups near to a wall or hedge, on a border facing south,south-west, or west. A temporary covering can then beeasily fixed to a rough framework over them. Treat theplants in their early stages of growth the same as theothers. Towards the end of April plant them out inthe positions as above suggested ; water, mulch, and tiethe branches to stakes as required. Neglect in thisrespect will result in the loss of many branches throughbreakage by wind and rain, and will also cause them togrow in a very straggling manner. Pinching of the pointsor side shoots is not necessary, as the aim of the growerwill be to produce a large number of neat blooms.

Excepting in very severe winters, the majority of theplants will survive if left out in the borders where theyhave flowered, but it is safer to lift the stools (as soonas the flowering stems have been cut off) and place themin a cold frame, in a mixture of leaf soil and loam.Protection from excessive frost may thus be easily affordedto the plants at a minimum of labour, and they will be ingood condition for planting out again the following April.

Before transferring the plants to outside borders allweakly growths should be removed, retaining only thestrongest. As a means of securing strong stocky shoots,give air fully on all favourable occasions. Young plantsshould not be neglected for the sake of old ones, but thestock may be greatly increased by taking care of old


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Chrysanthemum Culture foe the Million. 11stools, and, if need be, dividing them into severalportions in the manner just described, instead of allowingthem to suflFer through exposure to frosts. Cottagers and

amateurs who do notpossess greenhousesneed not despair ofhaving a nice show ofChrysanthemums inthe early autumnmonths if they willfollow these instruc-tions.

CHRYSANTHEMUMSFOE. MARKET.Where large num-

bers of these plants aregrown for producinga plentiful supply ofmedium-sized flowersfor market, muchlabour is necessary ifproper attention begiven to their manywants. If grown inpots, constant regardto the requirements ofthe plants is essential,or the return at theend of the season will

Jhis Engraving shows a branch which hasnot been disbudded, cimaequenily all the shoots not be a favourableand buds ore growing, and wilt form a mass,or bush, of numerous small flowers suitable one.for cutting and placing in small oases.


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12 Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million.The young plants should be treated up to the end of

April as advised for the growing of bush plants. At thisstage they should be planted in open, but sheltered, bordersin well-prepared soil. The staking and watering of theplants must be carefully attended to, and a mulch ofrotten dung placed on the surface of the soil early inJune. The aggregate amount of work during sumncerwill be much less than if the same number of plantswere grown throughout the season in pots. But forgeneral use, and for convenience, pot plants are the best inthe autumn. We are only recommending planting out inborders in exceptional cases, such as extreme pressure ofother work during summer, and an insufficient supply ofempty pots at the time of final potting. Just before theadvent of frost, lift the plants very carefully, retaining asmuch soil as possible around the roots, and transfer them tothe borders of peach or tomato houses without unnecessarydelay. Fill up all open spaces around each root firmly withfine soil; syringe the plants well; place a shading on the roofof the housewhich should be kept rather close for a fewdays-when full ventilation may be gradually given andthe shading removed. If these instructions are carefullyattended to but little check will be felt by the plants,although a certain amount must be expected owing to theunavoidable mutilation of the roots. We would onlyadvise this method of growing Chrysanthemums for marketwhere circumstances warrant it. We have seen it practisedwith great success. Small plants are the most useful formarket purposes. Cuttings should not be rooted too earlyFebruary and March being the best months for theirpropagation. The aim of the grower should be to obtain aplant with foliage on it of a dark green colour down to the


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Chrysakthemum Culture for the Million. 13base. Ample room should be allotted to these plantsduring the summer, confining the roots to as small pots aspossible without causing a stunted growth. When confinedto small pots the plants will require nourishment after themiddle of June. Judicious applications of soot and liquidmanure water ; and approved artificial manure applied in adry state to the surface of the soil, and also dissolved inwater (according to the directions given with each kind),will answer the purpose. When the time arrives forplacing these plants under glass, the same principle as toroom must be observed. Crowding of the plants togetherwill, in three week's time, undo the whole season's work.Strive to preserve the foliage in a robust, healthy stateCustomers will be found who will readily buy suchspecimens for the adornment of their windows, porches andsmall greenhouses, and the grower will be well repaid forhis labour.

Select a few of the best varieties and grow largenumbers of each, rather than many sorts and few of each one.White, yellow, bronze and dark red are the best colours tochoose, but the two first named are the most popular. Forearly flowering the following are good and reliable sorts,and command the readiest sale, viz. :Madame Desgranges,white ; Lady Selbourne, white, very free flowering ; YellowSelbourne, In both the growth and flowers this varietyresembles its parent, except colour, which is a very pleasingyellow ; Niveus, pure white ; Gloire du Rocher, orange-amber ; Mrs. Rundle, white ; Lady Laurence, pure whiteBoule de Neige, white ; Flora, red, shaded rose (Japanesevariety); W. H. Lincoln, rich deep yellow; H. W. Rieman,this is a later variety than Lincoln, similar habit, and pureyellow flowers produced very freely; Source d'Or, orange


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14 Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million.

and gold ; Ryecroft Glory, yellow ; V. Morel, deep mauve,from buds secured on terminal shoots ; W. Holmes, chest-nut-red; Lady Fitzwygram, white; Golden Gem, bronze;Mrs. Hawkins, deep yellow ; L. Canning, white, very lateMdlle. Lacroix, white; Val d'Andorra, orange-red; andElaine, pure white. These are a few sorts which may bedepended upon to give satisfaction. There are others alsogood. New varieties are constantly coming to the front, butfew of them possess sterling merit. We would recommendthat new ones be tried on a small scale at first, andthoroughly tested, before replacing older and tried sortswith them.

PLACING THE PLANTS IN THE OPEN-AIR, FEBDINa,AND INTERMEDIATE POTTING.

In the Southern counties of England the best time toplace the plants out of doors is the end of April and earlyin May. In the North, it will be advisable to defer thiswork till towards the end of May. In each case the plantsshould be protected. Select a sheltered position, but onenot undei, nor too near, tall trees, as they would obstructthe light, draw the young plants up, and thus weaken thegrowth. Stand the pots on a firm bed of ashes, tiles orboards to keep the worms out. If on the two latter,provision must be made for the water to drain away freely.If the foliage becomes dry, a few degrees of frost will notharm the plants, but it will be best to temporarily protectthem at night until all risk is over. A framework oflaths, upon which a few mats or some coarse canvas can belaid, will answer the purpose admirably. Cold east andnorth-east winds do much injury to the tender foliage atthis time of the year. We always guard against such


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Chrysanthemum Culture foe the Million. 15danger by placing scrim, or mats, 3 feet high, fastened tostakes driven into the ground all round the plants, andwhich is allowed to remain in this position for a few weeks.The Spring time is a very busy one for the gardener;generally more work demanding his attention than can beproperly done. Consequently something has to be neglected,and Chrysanthemums are often the things which suffer.Once we neglected them, under pressure of other work at thistime, and we were constantly reminded of our remissnessall through the remainder of the season by the unsatisfac-tory appearance of the plants. The final potting ofChrysanthemums can be delayed for a time, argues thebusy gardener, and so it may, but at what expense ? Thereis no appreciable difference to be noticed in the spring, but,undoubtedly, the autumn display of bloom will be affected.Not- only should the final potting take place as soon as theplants need it, but intermediate potting is sometimesnecessary before the final shift is made. By selecting thoseplants which are urgently in need of more root-room, andgiving it to them forthwith, the general high standard ofquality of the whole of the stock will be increased, whereasif this is neglected it will be lowered. Only a very smallshift on into a larger pot is necessary. We advocate a littlefeeding at this time to the majority of those plants notre-potted. "Weak liquid manure twice within seven days,and a table-spoonful of artificial manure, dissolved in twogallons of rain water, given once a week will assist thegrowth of the plants very much. We are strongly in favourof giving such assistance, but must warn our readers notto exceed the quantity of stimulant stated. The same kindof soil should be used at the intermediate potting as thatused for the previous one. These re-potted plants will


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16 Chrysanthemum CuLTaKE for the Million.not require any help from manure water until the rootshave taken a good hold of the new soil.

THE FIRST BUD.During the greater part of May, and throughout June,

the first bud will form in the points of the shoots. Someof the earliest varieties may be retarded by retaining thisbud for a short time instead of forthwith removing it. Tosecure a few later crown buds of the " Queens, " and ofsome of the earliest varieties of Japanese and Incurved,pinch off one inch of growth when removing the first buds.The buds which form on the growths afterwards producedwill be delayed a week or thereabouts. Only treat a fewplants in this way. As soon as the bud is taken out, or thetops pinched offas in the case of the those just mentioned;and also the very late varieties (of which " Boule d'Or " isan example) which should have the tops removedsome onApril 20th, and others on April 30ththe whole strengthof the plant goes to the production of the new growths,which were visible around it. Moderately late varietiesneed the bud to be removed as soon as possible withoutinjuring the young shoots, as the object of the cultivator isto hasten the production of the crown bud on the succeed-ing shoots. " Viviand Morel " and " Charles Davis " aregenerally very troublesome in the matter of bud formationthat is, instead of growth shoots following the removal ofthe first bud, more buds are formed. Experience teachesus to persistently remove all successive buds as soon as theyare large enough to handle ; that is the right thing to do.Growth shoots will eventually assert the lead, and fromthem splendid flowers, of good colour and large size, may belooked for at the proper time.


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Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million. 17"When the buds appear, and are large enough, snip

them out and reserve the three top shoots, and these willafterwards grow freely if the plant be in good health.Remove all side growths beneath the above-mentionedthree, so that they may have all the support of the plantconcentrated in them. This selection of three shootsapplies to those plants which are grown specially for theproduction of fine blooms. "We have always found thevarieties " Princess of Teck,'' " Hero of Stoke Newington,"and " Mrs. Norman Davis " to be failures when the crownbud has been ''secured" in the ordinary way, for itinvariably formed a hard bud with a short, hard flowerstem; the flower opening in an irregular and altogetherunsatisfactory manner. We mention this here as thereason why. Towards the end of June, or very early inJuly, the points of the shoots should be removed once more,as the resultant growths which then form give the mostdesirable blooms. Although rather later in forming, insteadof being hard the buds open more freely and regularly, anddevelop into fine, deep blooms of good shape and colour.


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Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million. 19

FINAL POTTING.PRINCIPAL PARTS OF COMPOST.

Loam.Leaf soil.Horse manure.Soot.Ordinary wood ashes.

Bone meal.Chrysanthemum ashes.Dry lime.Artificial manures.Sand.

Size of pots, 8 inch, 9 inch and 10 inch.

TIME FOR FINAL POTTINa.TOWARDS the end of May, and during June, the plantsmust be placed in the large pots. Do not pot all of

them in a haphazard manner, whether they require it ornot, but pick out those which are sufficiently advanced inroot action and deal with them first, and the others in duecourse before they become pot-bound.

SOIL.This, the rooting medium for the plant, has been

described by some cultivators as of secondary importanceduring the growing period ; feeding, bring in their estima-tion, the chief essential. We grant that feeding is a mostimportant item in the culture; but, unless the pottingcompost be of the right kind, as regards quality andlasting properties, feeding will not be so effectual; thuswe see that neither is independent of the other. Withregard to the quality of the soil as affecting the growth ofdifferent sections of Chrysanthemums, we maintain that.


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20 Chrysanthemum Coltdee fok the Million.especially in dealing with the Japanese, it is not possible toobtain blooms of the highest merit from plants which havebeen grown in soil of poor quality. Very rich soil will notanswer so well for the Incurved section, because depth,solidity, and general refinement of bloom would not beforthcoming from plants grown in such material; neitherwould this desirable quality be apparent in the Japanesesection if the plants were loosely potted, i.e., the soil notfirmly rammed into the pots. It will be clearly seen by thegrower that Chrysanthemums must be potted finally in twodifierent qualities of soil, namely, one well-enriched for theJapanese, and the other not so rich for the Incurved. Thesoil suitable for the latter section is also better adapted forthe Anemone-flowered, Reflexed, Single and Pompons.We were once engaged in potting some Chrysanthemumswhen a gentleman came upon the scene and enquiredwhether we were pounding medicine with pestle and mortar,he remarking that the " ramming " suggested that operationto him. Let it be clearly understood that excessively hardpotting is not recommended, but the soil should be presseddown firmly, no spaces ought to be left around the sides ofthe pots, and the roots on each ball of soil must not bebruised. Soil which is sufficiently firm for Geraniums willnot be so for Chrysanthemums.

Before beginning to pot have all the pots and crockswashed clean; especially the insides of the pots. Anyplants which may be found to be dry should be wateredcopiously, and allowed to remain a few hours beforehandling them.

For Japanese, mix well together the following compost

:

one half sound loam with the grass only just decayed, chopit small enough for use, and remove the finest fibreless


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Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million. 21portion by sifting the whole through a half-inch sieve, onequarter part moderately fresh horse manure, and onequarter part half decayed leaves. To each barrow load ofthe above add a 5-inch potful of soot, one of bone meal, oneof some approved artificial manure, one of ordinary woodashes, half a potful of Chrysanthemum ashes, a handful ofdry lime, and sufficient coarse sand to make the wholeporous. In mixing the soil for the other sections use asmaller quantity of horse manure, and a 4-inch pot formeasuring out the manure, ashes, soot and bones. If thesoil be mixed and placed in a heap in an open shed, facingnorth, for a month prior to use, it will prove of still morevalue.

After the pots are crocked by placing a large potsherdwith the hollow side down over the hole, and then smallerones to the depth of two inches, put a few leaves (oak orbeech preferably), or very thinly-cut fresh turf over them,and a sprinkling of soot. This will help to keep the wormsout, and benefit the plants also. Then place a smallquantity of the coarser parts of the soil on the soot, andmake it firm with the blunt end of the rammer ; upon thisportion put the ball of soil attached to the plant withoutmore disturbance of the roots than is necessary through theremoval of the old crocks. With the wedge-shaped end ofthe stick make each layer of soil firm as the pottingproceeds. Leave a space of 1J inches below the rim of thepot, then watering may be done effectually, and room willbe provided for top-drossing in the summer. Amateursespecially err in this matter by filling the pot too full ofsoil at first; a difficulty is caused when, later on, it isnecessary to apply additional soil as a top-dressing. Eight,9 and 10-inch pots will be quite large enough to use ; we


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22 Chrysanthemum Cdltdrb for the Million.have seen very fine plants grown in 7-inoh pots ; but, exceptfor special purposes, these are too small for the final potting.

Replace the small stakes with stronger ones, and standthe plants in their summer quarters; which should bosheltered from the south-west winds. Tiles or boardsshould be used to stand the pots on ; in fact, anything thatwill keep out worms, and not block the drainage of thewater from the pots, will do. When the plants are growingtaller they are easily blown down by strong winds, unlessthey are secured to some support. String tied to postsdriven firmly in the ground should not be used. Wire ismost suitable. Two strands for the tall varieties, and onefor the dwarf ones, will be sufficient. These wires must bestretched tight from post to post, and the stakes whichsupport the plants made secure to the horizontal wires.Do not, however, tie any portion of the plant to the wires.


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TEEATMENT OF THE PLANTS DUEINGTHE SUMMEE MONTHS.

AFTER the last potting, every care must again beexercised in watering ; the plants will soon lose their

bottom leaves if the soil is constantly saturated with water.If grown for grouping, and as specimens, the loss of thebasal leaves will cause much disappointment, as such plantswould look very ordinary when placed besides others whichwere clothed with healthy foliage to the rim of the pot. Invery dry, hot weather, a thorough syringing will be of moreservice to them than watering the soil too much. Of coursewe do not mean that the syringing is to take the place ofwatering, as the soil must be thoroughly saturated when dryenough to require it, but during the first month afterpotting only water when really necessary, always pickingout the dry ones, and not beginning at one end of the rowand watering all the plants indiscriminately. When thepots have become nearly full of roots more water will berequired, and in very hot weather watering several timeseach day is necessary. Those plants which are at this time(end of June or thereabouts) showing the first bud should betreated as previously advised.

There are more varieties in cultivation at the presenttime which produce flowers of even greater excellence thanmost of the older ones, and which do not grow very high,consequently stakes are not required so long as they were


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Chrysanthemum Culture foe the Million. 25formerly, and the plants are more easily housed to advan-tage in the autumn. Three stakes (one to each shoot) shouldbe placed to every plant, and in the case of dwarf varietiesall the stakes which need not be so stout for thesemay beinserted in the soil in the pot. For tall plants, one centralstake only is needed ; this should be driven firmly into thesoil, and two small side sticks attached to the wires onlyand the shoots fastened to them. Very sturdy-growingvarieties do not require side stakes at all, but simplylooping to the central one with matting. Drive the stakesdown the insides of the pots in the new soil in which theplants have been potted, and not too near to the stem, ormany roots may be destroyed. Keep all suckers regularlyremoved throughout the summer months, and, indeed, theseshould be pulled off until the blooms are one quarter open.

^^^


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26 Chrysanthemum Cdltuee foe the Million.

INSECTS AND MILDEW.MILDEW usually infests the leaves on the under side; it

is white in colour, like hoar frost, and is easilyeradicated by rubbing flour of sulphur on the affected parts.Two ounces of soft soap dissolved in four quarts of boilingwater, and, when cool, syringed on the plants will alsodestroy the mildew. Use the remedies on the first appear-ance of the mildew and prevent it from spreading.

Black and green fly should ha dislodged by applicationsof tobacco powder. These pests generally gather roundthe points of the young growths. There is a small yellowthrip which also infests the growths at the point andcripples the young leaves very much if left long undisturbed.Apply tobacco powder also in this case while the plantsare wet with dew. Ladybirds are often found on Chrysan-themums in the summer, and are destroyed by sonae growers,but it is a mistake to kill them as they are the gardener'sfriend, they eat the fly, but do absolutely no harm to theplants.

Worse than any of the pests just mentioned is a diseasewhich sometimes destroys many plants, viz.the loss ofleaves, and often the entire plant, through the leaves fromthe base upwards turning black. Half of each leaf at firstis discoloured, the other half turns a dull yellow, and theyeither fall off or dry up. This is caused, we believe, throughgiving too much water to those plants which are defectivein root action. The disease is aggravated when strong


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Cheysanthkmum Culture foe the Million. 27liquid manure is given to such plants. On the first sign ofblackness in the leaf, the plants so affected should be turnedout of the pots and the roots examined ; if few roots are tobe seen, only clear water should be given until root actionis freer, keeping the soil somewhat drier than formerly fora short time.

Another disease which affects the young growths of the"Queen" family only is also a disastrous one. This occursabout the month of August, just before the formation of theflower bud which is so eagerly looked forward to by theanxious grower. The whole of the point of the shoot isaffected, but not always every shoot on each plant. Theyoung leaves wither and go soft and flabby. Free growthis arrested for a period of ten days or so, then it againcommences, but these particular leaves, instead of growingto the normal size, remain stunted, showing at the end ofthe season the exact place on the shoot where the checkoccurred. On many plants so affected the flower buds whichfollow are worthless, as they never develop into shapelyblooms. The cause of this withering of the points ofgrowth we are not able confidently to state, but undoubtedlya check to growth has occurred, given, we believe, throughover dryness at the roots after a top-dressing of fresh soU.has been put on. This is the chief cause of the evil. Whyit does not affect other sorts in the same way is a puzzle tous, unless it be that the constitution of the "Queen"section is entirely different to that of other varieties.


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FEEDING THE PLANTS.COMMENCE feeding the plants as soon as the roots

begin to entwine round the ball of soil at the sidesof the pots, and keep on applying manure water (at firstin a weak state) up to the time that the blooms are nearlyhalf open. Most of the artificial manures, if appliedaccording to the directions given with each kind, are highlybeneficial to the growth of Chrysanthemums. Soot water,too, is invaluable as a stimulant to growth. It should beplaced in a bag, tied up, and then put into a barrel or tankof rain water. Stir the bag about in the water occasionally,but always use the water in a clear state, and notimmediately after moving it to and fro in the tank. Sheep,goat, cow, and fowl dung may be similarly treated.

Artificial manure may be applied in a dry state, ordissolved in water first. If given dry apply it immediatelyafter watering, or after rain, and not while the soil is dryin the pots, as it would very probably burn the surfaceroots, and so do more harm than good. Sulphate ofAmmonia and Nitrate of Soda hasten the growth, but ifused indiscriminately a vast deal of harm would soon bedone. We once tried Nitrate of Soda on a plant (AlfredSalter) to test its strength and eifect. Immediately afterapplying it the leaves assumed a dark green colour ; theyvery perceptibly thickened, being twice as large as those onplants which were not treated in this manner. The Nitratewas given about three times each week for two months at


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Chbysanthemum Culture for the Million. 29the rate of a tea-spoonful each time. The plant at the endof that period was nearly two feet higher than the others ofthe same variety in the row. Final resulta large bud,deformed even in that stage of growth, which developedinto a large, flat, coarse bloom, very inferior to those on theother plants. If less than half the quantity of Nitrate ofSoda had been given once in two weeks during the twomonths, the plant would have received quite sufficientstimulant. We give this statement as a guide to growers.It should also be clearly understood that with the Nitrateof Soda only weak liquid manure, soot water, and clearwater should be given alternately, with an occasionalsprinkling of some good artificial manure, and not Sulphateof Ammonia as well. Use the latter as you would Nitrateof Soda, in the place of it, and not in conjunction. Pigeondung is stronger than fowl's dung ; both are valuable as asoluble manure in a weak statethat is, well diluted withclear rain waterbut if used in a raw state, either as a top-dressing alone, or mixed with the soil, it is dangerous, as itburns the roots, and also causes worms to breed in it.


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30 Chrysanthemum Culture foe the Million.

TOP-DEESSING.WE like to top-dress with rich soil twice during the season,viz., towards the end of July, and again after thebulk of the buds which are to remain on the plants havebeen secured. The soil for this purpose should be collectedand stacked two months before it is wanted for use.

Cut off the main portion of the grass, and when theremainder has dried chop the turf into pieces, sift out thefine soil, and mix with it a 7-inch potful of ground bones,one of soot, and a bushel of horse manure to each barrowfulof soil. Place the compost in a solid heap in an open shedwhere rain can be kept off it till required for use. If theheap remains in this position for a month it will be of morevalue at the end of that time than if used immediately afterthe mixing. Put the top-dressing on at the two periodspreviously mentioned, leaving room at the first one for thesecond application.

Use the rammer freely and so make the soil very firmon the surface. Ring the pots after top-dressing to be surethat the soil is not too dry underneath, or, what is better,well water all that require it, about an hour before perform-ing this operation, as the damp appearance of the new soilmay otherwise deceive the eye, and harm to the plantsaccrue. Feed the plants so as to obtain a free, luxuriantgrowth, but avoid over-forcing. The aim should be tosecure wood which will thoroughly mature in our climate.Wood which is not ripe at the time the plants are housedin the autumn will not give the best flowers. Continue tosyringe the plants freely in hot weather, and pay constantattention to the tying of the shoots as growth advances.


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SECUEING THE FLOWEEING BUDS.FLOWER buds on the plants of certain varieties will,

sometimes, make their appearance in the points of theleading shoots at most inconvenient dates, when exhibiting

is the real purpose forwhich they are grown.Some kinds, especially ofthe " Queen " familyamong the Incurves, and" Viviand Morel" (and itssport"Charles Davis")among the Japanese, aremore troublesome in thisrespect than others. Westrongly recommend theremoval of all buds whichshow on these plantsduring July and the earlypart of August, and alsothose on all other veryearly varieties. Furthergrowth will then com-mence, which will in duetime produce anotherflower bud. These re-sultant buds may notgrow into such large

Securing -taking " the Grown Bad. The flowerS aS the cultivatorcross lines denote which shoots to remoue.


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32 Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million,may desire to have, but they will contain good qualities,which flowers from too early buds rarely possess. " Bouled'Or," and other very late varieties, may show buds in thelast week in July if the plants were " topped " about April20th. Such buds will be ready for " securing "that is,removing all young shoots which grow around them, andleaving the budsabout August 3rd, and all secured atthat date will be in bloom in November at the right time.We have often seen advice given about the " Princess ofWales " type, namely, that the 28th of August is quite soonenough to secure the buds of these varieties, which nowembrace a rather largesection of the best qualityIncurved sorts. Wehave obtained very goodblooms from buds securedat the date just named,but they would not bearcomparison with otherstaken about the 15thAugust. All buds ofthese varieties should besecured by August 25th,and then deep, highquality blooms may belooked for in November.Such buds will be fullydeveloped by November5th. Only about 5 percent, of good blooms willdevelop from buds of the Securing "taking" the Terminal Butt."Queen" and "Empress" ^^^ "''"^^ ''"'^ "''^ " guide as to which^ buds should be remoued.


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Chrysanthemum Cultuee for the Million. 33family which have been secured during the first week inAugust. The lust week in that month and the first inSeptember being a safer time ; though buds which show onAugust 15th should be retained. The best date for securing

The "Crown Bud" smelling properly.the buds of each variety of Incurved and Japanese is givenin the table at the end of this book, together with otherdetails of prime importance. Do not remove all thegrowths at one time when securing the bud, but a few at atime, when they are large enough to be taken off without

D


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34 Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million.injuring what is left. If tlie plants are growing freely atthat period, there is no necessity for feeding with chemicals.

Carefully watch the growth, and as soon as help is need-ful give weak soot water first, follow that in a few days withdiluted liquid manure ; after which artificial manures willbe beneficial in assisting to plump up the buds. Keepa sharp watch for earwigs, which do much damage at thisperiod by eating the centre of the bud out, and also thestem below the bud. During the daytime examine allcurled leaves, and between the stem of the plant and thestake, for these pests ; and at night, with a lantern,examine not only the stems and leaves but particularly thebuds. All side shoots on the stems of the plants must bepinched regularly while they are in a small stage, for if leftto grow several inches long before removal, they will robthe plant of much strength.

RETARDING THE BUDS.When the buds on some of the plants are too forward

remove such plants to a cool place facing north, if possible,where they will be screened from the sun in the middle ofthe day, but in an open position, not under trees, nor toonear to a high wall. We remember a gardenera beginnerin Chrysanthemum cultureonce trying to retard, and tokeep dry some buds which were just beginning to showcolour, by tying small paper bags over them. When heremoved the bags he found, to his dismay, that he hadprovided an excellent harbour for earwigs, which had in themeantime entirely destroyed his most forward blooms.This experiment was never repeated.


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Chrysanthemum Culture foe the Million. 35

PLACING CHRYSANTHEMUMSINDOOES.

THE dates given are for the Southern counties. In theNorth of England, Midlands, Scotland, and theNorth of Ireland, all plants which are grown to produceexhibition blooms should be safely housed before the adventof frost in those localities. Unless they can be protected atnight none should be left exposed to the night air afterSeptember 20th. In Scotland a week earlier even will bea better date for housing the late blooming sorts. Bushplants for general decorative use may be left out a littlelater than the dates given above, but they, too, must not beexposed to frost, as it cripples the shoots, and undoes thework of a whole season. The evil effects of frosts on openingbuds is soon apparent in the wholesale decay of the flowersafter housing. The latest flowering varieties should behoused first. Those which are very backward may be putunder glass about September 20th, if the blooms arerequired at an early date, and others before the colours ofthe florets can be seen. The 1st of October is the dategenerally accepted by growers as the best one for housingthe bulk of the plants. From the 1st to the 10th ofOctober we have, with few exceptions, experienced rathersevere frosts ; during which time any plants that are nothoused are safer if placed in an open shed at night, not onlyto be protected from frost, but also from the dew,which soon ruins the flowers, by causing decay after housing.Remove all decayed leaves before housing the plants, and


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36 Cheysanthemum Culture for the Million.do not crowd them too close together, but admit all thelight possible to preserve the foliage in a green condition aslong as you can. Stand specimen plants by themselves.Greenhouses, vineries, peach houses, glass verandahs, andeven porches and large windows may be utilised for theprotection of Chrysanthemums at this season of the year,but very lofty, dark conservatories, and similar structures,are not suitable. A few of the earliest plants may beplaced in a house which faces north, north-east, or east (ifsuch be available). The opening of the blooms will thus beretarded, and the grower have an opportunity of exhibitingsome of his best bloomsit may be at the same time asthose which are naturally much later. The late kinds mustbe fully exposed to light and sunshine, and also placed in aslightly warmer house in order to have the blooms quite outat the desired time. Place the plants so as to avoid havingthe blooms too near to the glass ; they must not be closerthan 3 or 4 feet. Ventilate freely at first both at the topand front of the house, and also leave the door open. Donot syringe the plants after housing, if the buds are opening,as the water would lodge in the florets and cause decay.

Water as usual when the plants are in need of it. Placea large lump of lime in a tub, or can, and mix it with water.When the lime has settled at the bottom, use the clearwater for watering the plants once every ten days till theblooms are three parts developed ; it will help to preventdamping of the blooms.

When the blooms are about half expanded, and are con-sidered to be too forward, the house must be shaded. Thisis best done by laying mats or other material on the glassoutside, immediately over those flowers which require it. Theadvantage of this kind of shading is that it can be removed


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Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million. 37when dull weather supervenes. We always shade exhibitionblooms from strong sunshine, especially the Incurvedvarieties. If this precaution be not taken some of thepetals will reflex instead of incurving naturally. It isadvisable, also, to turn the blooms of the Incurved varietiesespecially the "Queens"from the sun. Keep the bloomsof the last named in an upright position until nearly fullydeveloped, the petals will then form into place and producea deep, solid bloom. At this stage the branches may bedepressed so as to admit of the flower hanging downwardstowards the light ; support must be given to the flowerswhile in this position, or their weight will cause many lossesthrough breaking of the flower stem immediately below thebottom petals.

FIRE HEAT AND VENTILATION.These are two important items at this stage, and will

require careful manipulation. Too much fire heat isharmful, as also is excessive ventilation, when the flowersare nearly open. The ventilators at the top of the houseshould be left slightly open to admit a little air night andday, except in foggy weather, when, if the sun be entirelyobscured by the fog, all ventilators should be closed. If,however, the sun shines upon the house it must not be closed,even during fogs, but a small opening should be left at thetop. It is wise to hang scrim canvas over the ventilatorsin foggy weather. Indeed we always had some coarse scrimfastened to the ventilators when the flowers were opening ;cold draughts were thereby prevented, while sufficient airwas admitted. From 43 degrees to 50 degrees is a suitabletemperature for Japanese, and a few degrees lower for theIncurved and other varieties.


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DAMPING OF THE PETALS.LARGE numbers of fine blooms are lost every year

through damping. The blooms are affected indifferent ways. Sometimes they are speckled all over as ifpepper had been dusted on them ; the spots turn to a rustybrown colour, and the effect is to render the blooms thusdamaged worthless for exhibition. The spots are caused bya too low temperature in the house at night ; the bloomsbeing colder than the surrounding atmosphere, moisturecondenses on them, and the sun shining upon them thefollowing day causes the spots just referred to. Preventionis better than cure in this, as in other cases. During verycold weather, especially when fogs are prevalent, suspenda piece of scrim or tiffany cloth about a foot above theblooms; this covering will retain much of the moisturewhich would, in its absence, descend upon the blooms andthus cause injury to them. Remove the covering the nextmorning as soon as the air in the house feels drier.Another form of damping is the decay of the ends of thepetals, which occurs at intervals over the entire bloom, andis caused by too much moisture at the roots of the plants.On the first appearance of this decay remove all damagedpetals, keep the soil drier for a few days, and then give awatering of clear lime water. This malady is not sodisastrous to the blooms as the " spotting " is. We haveoccasionally found whole flowers decay at the base of theflorets. Water dripping from the roof (in some oases theresult of syringing) and lodging in the blooms soon bringson decay. This may easily be prevented, unless the roof ofthe house be very defective.


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Chrtsanthemum Culture for the Million. 39


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DRESSING THE BLOOMS WHILEOPENING.

THE fiaal dressing of the flowers will of course be donewhen they are cut and are under preparation forexhibition. We have been oifered good remunerations by

gardeners if we would give them a few lessons in "dressing,"and have had much difficulty in convincing some that thedressing is commenced while the blooms are still onlypartially developed on the plants, and not left until they areout and ready to place on the show boards. What we meanby " dressing " the blooms while they are growing on theplants, is the removal of all twisted and mal-formed petals;and this applies more particularly to the Incurved section.The Japanese, Japanese Anemone, and all the other sectionsare greatly improved in shape and appearance by judiciousmanipulation of the blooms while they are expanding. Wemust, however, give a word of caution to intendingexhibitors, or our instructions may cause some to incur lossthrough recklessly following our advice. It is this : do notinjure the petals which are left in each individual flower bypinching or twisting them with the tweezers, which shouldbe used for removing the mis-placed ones. The flowersshould be examined in the following manner, viz., after theyare a quarter or half open carefully take out all unrulypetalspull them clean out, do not leave a portion in, or itwill decay, and may cause others to do so. By removingthese ill-shaped petals the others will grow into their proper


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Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million. 41places, thus improving the bloom, and causing much lesslabour to be bestowed upon each one at the last moment.This will allow of more time on the morning of the show toattend to other necessary details. When the blooms arethree parts out a number of seed florets will be visiblein some varieties, notably the "Princess of Wales" type,more than otherscarefully pluck out all such florets. Theyare yellow in colour, short and sturdy, and if left cause thepetals to grow outwards, and not inwards as they shoulddo. When the Incurved varieties are well advanced, andthe sun is strong, guard against an undue rise of tempera-ture by placing mats (several in thickness if need be) on theglass outside. If once the petals are reflexed through toomuch heat it will be a difficult matter to place them rightagain. Flowers of this section growing on unripe woodnever incurve gracefully as do those which are produced onthoroughly matured stems.


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42 Chetsanthemum Culture foe the Million.

PEESERVING FULLY-EXPANDEDBLOOMS.

CHRYSANTHEMUM flowers last for a considerabletime in a fresh condition after they are quite

developed. Growers of these plants are, consequently, nottroubled in this respect so much as are those of Bosesfor exhibition purposes. But, notwithstanding the goodkeeping qualities of Chrysanthemums, some blooms aredifficult to preserve for any length of time in a fit conditionfor exhibiting. It is much better to retard the opening ofthe blooms by keeping the plants in a cooler temperaturethan to try to keep them fresh for a long time after theyare fully expanded ; but when they are open too soon it isimperative that something should be done to preserve them.We have removed plants with blooms quite out, to an emptystable, and kept them fresh for more than ten days. Otherswe have cut with long stems and placed them in bottles ofwater in a spare bedroom. They will keep in excellentcondition in such a position for a week.

Incurved flowers should have thin wire tied to thestems, and then they can be bent in a slightly pendulousposition (so as not to disarrange the petals) withoutbreaking the stem.

The blooms on specimen plants, and those which areintended for grouping purposes, may be preserved, for ashort time only, in sheds, as the leaves would suffer toomuch by being placed in semi-darkness ; and these, as wellas the blooms, should be as fresh as possible. Water verysparingly all plants after the blooms are at their best.


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Cheysanthemcm Cultuee foe the Million. 43

FINAL DRESSING, AND PLACINGTHE BLOOMS ON THE BOARDS.AREANaiNG THE BLOOMS ON BOARDS.

SOME of the Japanese varieties produce such immenseblooms that it would be impossible to place all the

largest sorts in one row on the board without unduecrowding. Therefore intermix the large and smaller sortsso as to have an even stand of blooms. Place a good bloom,one with great depth, at each corner and elevate all so asthey will present the best front to the judges, and show theform and characteristics of each variety. There are cupsand tubes offered for sale by various makers which possessthe latest improvements, and make the work of staging avery pleasant occupation. Blend the colours on the standin a pleasing manner. Select all the blooms in the daylightand then determine the position which they are to occupyon the stands, or boards, as this work can be carried outmuch more satisfactorily in daylight than by artificial light.Remember that if the colours are well arranged on thestands it will help very much towards winning the prize.

Read very carefully the rules contained in the scheduleas to size of boards, number of varieties admitted in eachclass, (fee, of the show, and comply with them in everyparticular, so as to avoid disqualification.

FINAL DRESSING.The Incurved varieties will require much attention in

the matter of dressing and general finish. Place the largestin the back row, the medium in the middle, and the smaller


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44 Cheysanthemum Culture for the Million.sized ones in the front, so that each row of blooms appearseven in depth and width. Have depth and freshness in theselected specimens; also rich colour. Nearly all thedeformed petals will have been removed while the bloomswere on the plants. Take each bloom separately, tie a verysmall stake to the flower stem of Incurvesand otherswhich require supportto keep the bloom in an uprightposition, then place it in a suitable sized cup, and take outwith the tweezers those petals which will not properlyincurve and overlap the others. Begin at the top of thebloom and place all petals in regular order all over it. Donot dwarf the flower by drawing the stem down too muchin the tube. If patent fasteners are not attached to eachcup and tube, then use pieces of cork. Fill the cup halffull of water. All this work must be done with great careand judgment so as not to injure the tender petals.

The Japanese do not require any formal dressing, butonly irregular petals removed. Single, Pompon, Reflexed,and Anemone-flowered should have extra long individualpetals and seeds removed, and be placed on the stands sothat the full beauty of each flower will be clearly seen.


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Chkysanthemum Culture for the Million. 45

BEST METHOD OF LABELLINGTHE BLOOMS.

STANDS of Chrysantlieniums are frequently seen atshows labelled in a very slovenly manner. A piece ofpaper is torn up and the names often carelessly writtenupon it. The papers are simply laid loosely upon the frontof the stand, or stage, sometimes they are knocked off andare hastily replaced, probably, in the wrong positions.Two methods of labelling to be commended are, first :fastening securely to the stand a neatly cut label in front ofeach row of blooms, bearing three names each, which will befor the back, middle and front row blooms respectively. Butthe following is a better method, viz. :fasten the labels onan upright wire which has been firmly attached to thestand at the back, each label bearing the names of thethree blooms immediately in front of it. Write the nameswith black ink legibly and correctly. If any variety bereplaced by another after the labelling has been done, becareful to correct the name on the card also.


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46 Chrysanthemum Cultdek foe the Million.

TAKING THE BLOOMS TO THE SHOW,AND STAGING.

WHEN the blooms are placed on the stands the lattershould be securely fastened in tiers, in boxes whichhave been specially made for the purpose, and which aredust proof. The inside of the box should be very smooth,or much damage may be done to the outside petals of someof the blooms through rubbing against the sides. Havethe boxes made wide enough to enable the stands to beput in and taken out with ease. The stands are easilymade secure in their respective places by wedging themwith pieces of wood. Use a cart with springs if possible,and take every care throughout the journey, whether it beshort or long, by road or rail, to prevent damage fromjolting. However assiduous the exhibitor may be in thismatter the blooms will require all his attention after hearrives at the show, in readjusting some of the petals,especially of the Incurved section, before they can beplaced on the stage in a condition that will bear the criticalexamination of the judges. When taking plants to a showplace them so that the pots fit tightly against each other ina covered van, should one be available.


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Golden Thread.


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48 Chrysanthemum Cultuee foe the Million

HOW TO AREANGE A GROUP OFCHRYSANTHEMUMS.

EXPERIENCED exhibitors always group their plantsat home before taking them to the show; they are

then able to place every plant in the most advantageousposition. Having once arranged the group, the work ofre-constructing it in the show room will probably be donewith even better judgment. Always contrive to have a fewplants bearing high-class blooms of the Incurved sorts,as they greatly improve the merits of the group. Dwarf,and semi-dwarf plants with healthy foliage and carryingdeep, high-coloured fresh blooms are the best with whichto form a group. Avoid stiffness in arrangement. Procurean undulating surface of blooms. Wash the pots beforetaking them from home. Do not have unnecessary stakesvisible ; all supports should be painted green. Place thebest foliaged and dwarfest plants on the outsides ofthe group. Fill all the space allotted, but avoid unduecrowding. Blend the colours in a pleasing and effective


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HOW TO STAGE A GEOUP OF CUTCHRYSANTHEMUMS

AND COLOURED FOLIAGE.CLASSES for these are more numerously provided now

than they were formerly. This is a step in theright direction, and charming exhibits are seen at allthe principal shows. Such arrangements deserve everyencouragement. We will presume that a given space hasto be filled in the most artistic manner; if too manycolours are used the effect will be marred. The followingcolours are quite sufficient for the purpose, viz.yellow,bronze, white, and dark-red or crimson-maroon. Autumn-tinted foliageespecially beech branches and hardy fernsjudiciously intermixed with Chrysanthemum blooms (towhich a foot or more of stem is attached, clothed -withhealthy leaves) are materials with which a most pleasingeffect may be produced.

The same remarks apply to bouquets and epergnes ofChrysanthemums and foliage. Lightness in the arrange-ment and suitability of colours are the two essentials toto be studied.


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50 Chrysanthemum Culture foe the MiI/LIOn.

JUDGING CHRYSANTHEMUMBLOOMS, GROUPS, &c.

JUDGING by points in close competition is admittedby all good growers and adjudicators to be the onlysafe and reliable method in awarding the prizes.

Depth of bloom especially of the Incurved varietiesfreshness, size, form, good colour, solidity and generalfinish are the chief features to be considered. Coarseblooms will not win when smaller ones possessing refine-mentwhich is the result of careful manipulation of thebuds at the right time, and general good culture arestaged against them. In judging groups of Chrysan-themums, the above enumerated qualities in the bloomsare necessary, with the additional ones of well-grown,thickly foliaged plants, and artistic arrangement.

With regard to bouquets, epergnes, and cut bloomswith foliage arranged for efiect, lightness and harmony incolours are the principal points to be observed. Theseremarks on judging are few, but sufficient. Complicatedinstructions are not necessary, but will harass and not assista person in awarding prizes for exhibits.


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Ohetsanthemum Culture for the Million. 51


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52 Chrysanthemum Ocltdee foe the Million.

A TABLE 01=In this table we give, in an abbreviated form, a list of some

management, which we trust will be of great service to those w.Abbreviations generally used in reference to Chrysanthemun!'

Japanese Eeflexed ; Inc., Incurved ; Sef., Reflexed ; AneriAnem., Pompon Anemone ; Sing., Single.

JAPANESEName. Variety. Heii

AvalancheBeauty of Castlewood.Beauty of Exmouth...Bouled'OrCecil WrayCharles DavisColonel ChaseCol. W. B. SmithCommandant Blusset..E.BeckettEdith TaborE. MolyneuxEtoile de LyonEva KnowlesFlorence DavisG. C. SchwabeGolden GateG. W. Childs

JapJap. Inc..Jap. Inc..Jap. Inc..JapJap. Ref..JapJapJapJap. Ref..JapJapJap. Ref..JapJap. Inc..JapJapJap

whitered, reverse buffivory whiteyellow, shaded orangelight yellowbuff-yellowblushterra-cottacarmine-purpleyellowlemon-yellowmaroon, gold reverse

.

rose-purpleapricot, gold reverse .white, green centre .carmine-roseyellow, shaded buff .dark crimson

dwardwarmedfd- kwardwalmed.med.med.dwardwarmed.med.dwarmed.med.med.dwardwar


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Chrysanthemum Culture foe the Million. 53

[RYSANTHEMUMS.lest varieties in each section, with other details relating to theirleit.

Jwp., Japanese; Jwp. Inc., Japanese Incurved; Jwp. Ref.,none; Jwp. Anem., Japanese Anemone; Pom., Pompon; Fom.

piETIBS..rly,immUte.


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54 Chetsanthemum Culture foe the Million.

Name. Variety. Colour.

Hairy WonderHenri Jacotot fils...H. L. Sunderbruck ...InternationalJ. ShrimptonLe VerseauLord BrookeLouiseMdme. Ad. Chatin .Mdme. Ad. Moulin .Mdme. CarnotMdme. M. Ricoud .MdUe. Marie Hoste

.

MdUe. Therese Key .Mons. BernardMons. Charles Molin.Mons. Panckoucke .Miss Dorothea Shea.MissMaggie BlenkironMiss Rita Schroeter. .

.

Mrs. Alpheus Hardy...Mrs. Charles Blick ..Mrs. C. H. PayneMrs. E. G.HillMrs. Falconer JamesonMrs. W. H. Lees ...Mutual FriendPhiladelphiaPhoebus

JapJap. Inc.JapJapJap. Ref.JapJap. Inc.Jap. Inc.Jap. IncJapJapJapJap. Ref.JapJapJap. Ref.JapJap.Jap. IncJapJap. Inc.JapJapJap. Inc.JapJapJapJap. Inc.Jap. Ref.

reddish bronzecrimson, gold reversebright yellowsalmon-redcrimson and scarletrose, striped whiteorange, shaded redwhite, suffused lilaccreamy whitewhite ,whiterose-lilac

,

creamy whiteivory whiterosy purplebronze and yellowrich yellowterra-cottaorange-red and yellow . .

,

white, striped lilacwhite (hairy)whiterose and whitewhite, shaded lilacorange-bronze, str'k'd yell.white, tinged pinkwhite, tinted lilacsulphur-whiteclear yellow


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Chrysanthemum Cultueb foe the Million. 55aite ofPot forFinal

Potting,in inchea.

When to secure the Final Bud. Date to HouBethe Plants. Size of Bloomsin inchea.

8109

10109

10101010109

1010101010101098

101010910101010

crown, August 20crown, August 15crown, August 20crown, August 15crown, August 15crown or terminal, Aug. 20..crown, August 15crown or term , Aug. 10-25..crown, August 15crown, August 15late cr. or term., Aug. 20-30.crown, August 15crown or term., Aug. 20-30..crown or term., Aug. 15-30..crown or term., Aug. 5-25...crown, August 10crown, August 15late crown, August 20crown, August 15crown, August 15crown, August 5-15crown, August 15late crown or term., Aug. 20crown, August 12crown, August 5crown or term., Aug. 20-30,crown, August 10crown, August 15crown, August 15

Oct. 5Oct. 1Oct. 1Oct. 1Oct. 1Oct. 1Oct. 1Oct. 1Oct. 1Oct. 1Oct. 5Oct. 1Oct. 1Oct. 1Oct. 1Oct. 1Oct. 1Oct. 1Oct. 1Oct. 1Sept. 20Oct. 1Oct. 1Oct. 1Sept. 25Oct. 1Oct. 1Oct. 1Oct. 1

dia. depth.H by 4i7i 6H876i7777

H77H7

67

^H767


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56 Chrysanthemum Culture foe the Million.

Name. Variety. Cktlour. Heigl;

President Borel ...PuritanKichard DeanRose WynneSouvr. de Petite AmieStanstead White ...SunflowerThomas Wilkins ...Viviand MorelW. G. NewittW. H. LincolnW. SewardW. Trioker

Jap. . .

.

Jap. IncJap.Jap. . .

.

Jap. . .

.

Jap. IncJap. . .

.

Jap. . .

.

Jap. ...Jap. . .

.

Jap. . .

.

Jap. . .

.

Jap. . .

.

purple-rosepink and white (at its best)crimson, gold reverse...blushwhitepure whitegolden yellowyellowmauvewhitegolden yellowdark crimsonrich rose

med.

'

dwar]'dwarl'med. ''dwari'dwari'med.dwari Idwarimed.dwarfmed.dwarf i

incurve:Name.

Alfred SalterBaron HirschBrookleigh Gem ...Chas. H. Curtis ...D. B. CraneEmily DaleEmpress of India...Globe d'OrGolden Empress ...Hero of S. NewingtonJ. Agate

Colour.

lilac-pinkgolden-buff, reverse crim.-redrosy purplerich yellowbronze-buff, shaded redstraw-yel., suffused bronze...pure whitebuff-yellowpale yellowdeep rose-pinkwhite

Height.

med. .med. .tall....med. .dwarf,med. .med. .med. .med. .dwarf,med. .

Early,Mediii]or Lat

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