Calimani Interior

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    1Prezentare generalaMuntii Caliman apartin lantului vulcanic ce captuseste latura interna a

    Carpatilor Orientali, situat in zona de contact a muntilor de incretire cu mariledepresiuni de prabusire ale Transilvaniei si Panoniei.Calimanul se incadreaza in gmpa sudica a celor mai timeri munti din tara

    no astra, cu cratere stinse acum circa l.8-5 milioane de ani (Cuatemaml inferior),care s-au format in Pliocenul superior (finele Neogenului-Tertiar), Acest masiveste caracterizat prin prezenta celor mai mari Ititudini (Pietro sui Calimaniului2100 m, Gurghiu 1776 m, Harghita 1800 m), care coboara treptat catre Tusnad(Ciomatu 1301 m). In acest sector apar aliniate numeroase conuri vulcanicedistmse partial de eroziune, dar mai ales datorita prabusirilor care au dus ladeschiderea unei caldere imense (cu un diametru de circa 10 km in Caliman),

    Muntii Callman - vedere generala

    Asezare. LimiteCalimanul ocupa partea nord-vestica a grupei centrale a Carpatilor Orientali,

    reprezentand eel mai extins masiv vulcanic din Romania. EI se desfasoara pedirectia Nord vest Sud est, fiind delimitat la miazanoapte de zona depresionara aDoruelor (Vatra Domei) si muntii marunti ai Bargaului; la Est, sirul depresiunilor

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    2Paltinis, Dragoiasa, Bilbor, Secu ilsepara de muntii inalti ai Bistritei side munceii Giurgeului (Sud est); laSud, defileul Muresului constituielimita spre muntii vulcanici aiGurghiului; in Vest, piemontulcolinar al Calimanului face trecereaspre partea estica a PodisuluiTransilvaniei.Aceasta delimitare corespunde

    Masivului Caliman privit ca unitatemontana propriu-zisa, dar, din punctde vedere turistic, aria lui de influenta graviteaza spre Vatra Domei, cuprinzandTara Domelor (drenata de raurile Neagra Sarului si Doma cu Dornisoara), SpreNord est zona de influenta cuprinde valea Bistritei cu viitoarea statiune Colibitapoarta de intrare spre potecile ce duc spre creasta inalta a Calimanului.

    GeologieMasivul Caliman apartine "arcului andezitic" aparut pe cmsta continentala a

    blocurilor transilvan si panonnic, ca efect al coliziunii acestora cu placa eurasica dela margine a estica a Bazinului Vienei si pana la curbura Carpatilor,Elementul principal al Calimanului il constituie caldera situata in partea de norda masivului, cu un diametm de circa 10 km. Aglomeratele si tufurile intens

    Caldera Callmanulul

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    3Cui mea Pietrosului

    silicificate, caolinizate silimonitizate din calderaCalimanului au favorizataparitia grotelor Luanei, custalactite si stalagmitemetalice, iar aglomerateledin zonele in a l t e ,sculptarea minunatelor"statui" din "cetatile"adormite de veacuri.Bazinul superior al

    raului Neagra, care astrapuns craterul, prezintaaspectul unei depresiuni 0palnie uriasa delimitata deo rama montana, jalonata

    de cele mai inalte varfuri, Intre Calimanul Cerbului si Caliman Izvor, in margine acalderei, se gaseste un crater din a doua generatie, cu diametrul de 1km.ClimaClima Muntilor Caliman se incadreaza in climatul temperat montan,

    corespunzator Muntilor Carpati, Analizele climatice deosebesc un subtip climatical muntilor josi si un subtip climatic al muntilor inalti,a) etajul climatic almuntilor josi, cu altitudinicuprinse intre 800m sil.700m, se caracterizeazaprin durate medii alestralucirii soarelui subl.800-l.900 ore/an, sinebulozitate accentuata de6-7 zecimi pe platoulvulcanic. Temperaturilemedii anuale sunt cuprinseintre 4 si 6 grade Celsius.Amplitudinile dintretemperaturile medii alelunilor celor mai calde ( 80_ISC) si celor mai reci (-6,-10C) se mentin intre18 si 21DC.Durata intervalului lara inghet este de 140-160 zile. Umezeala relativaprezinta valori ridicate, 84%-88%, precipitatiile fiind de 600 - l.300mm/an.Stratul de zap ada se mentine, in medie, intre 80-120 zile.

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    4b) la etajul climatic al

    mun t io r iu al ti , peplatourile situate la pestel.700 -l.800m, cat si pecupolele vulcanice ceajung la 2.l00m, duratade stralucire a soareluicoboara sub l.800ore/an,iar nebulozitateadepaseste 7 zecimi.Temperaturile mediianuale ating 2DC.Amplitudinile dintretemperaturile medii alelunilor celor mai calde sicelor mai reci sunt de 18-21D C . Grosimea medie a stratului de zapada este cuprinsa intre SOsi 100cm, darmaximele pot atinge valori de 2S0-3S0cm. Stratul de zapada se mentine in jur de200 de zile, iar durata intervalului rara inghet scade sub 100 de zile pe culmileinalte, Umezeala relativa depaseste 88%, iar cantitatea de precipitatii atinge 1.000- 1AOOmmian (cea mai mare parte sub forma de zapada),Anual se inregistreaza mai putin de 40de zile senine. Vanturile au frecvente

    mari si viteze medii de S-10mis, vitezele maxime depasind uneori 40-4Sm/s,zapada spulberata acumulandu-se in grosimi mari ce pot depasi 7-8m in locurileadapostite (depresionare).HidrografiaMasivul Caliman, prin forma si structura sa specifica vulcanilor, obliga apele

    care-l brazdeaza, tributare Somesului, Muresului si Bistritei moldovenesti, sa-sidesfasoare radial cursurile.

    Raul Neagra Sarului i~iaduna apele de pe flanculnordic al Calimanului, dininteriorul caldereivulcanice, pe care aferestruit-o adanc, Apele depe frontul Nord estic almasivului sunt colectate deCalimanel, afluent al rauluiN eagra Saru Iui , caremarcheaza contactul dintreeruptivul Calimanului simuntii cristalini al Bistritei,

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    5Parte aNord vestica este strabatuta deraul Doma si afluentii sai, Doma, cuizvoarele la altitudinea de 1760 m,sub Vf. Gmiu, i~iuneste apele cu celeale Bistritei la Vatra Domei.Flancul sudic al Calimanului este

    drenat de rauri mai dese, cu vai mailargi si putine repezisuri, datoritafaptului ca masivul coboara in treptedomoale spre defileul Muresului, incare debuseaza toate apele. Carre Estse desfasoara bazinul raului Ilva cuafluentii sai Tihu pe partea dreapta,

    cele doua Ilisoare (Mare si Midi). Bistrita (transilvana), care marcheaza limitanordica ce separa Calimanul de Bargau, aduna apele de pe flancul vestic. Sieul i~irostogoleste undele de sub Vf. Roghina Fagetului, din partea vestica a Calimanuluisi i~i infrateste apele cu cele ale Somesului Mare, ce jaloneaza limita dintre parteasudica aMasivului Rodna si sectoml nordic al Muntilor Bargau,Lacurile sunt rare in cuprinsul Calimanului, ele fiind reprezentate prin Iezeml

    Retitis, lac de baraj natural si lacul de baraj artificial Colibita, pe latura nordica,catre Muntii Bargau,VegetatiaVegetatia este variata, cu 0

    pregnanta nota de originalitate.Cu usurinta se pot dis tinge inmuntii Caliman urrnatoarele etajede vegetatie: etajul montanmijlociu, dominat de fitocenozelemnoase apartinand asociatieiChrysanthemo RotundifolioPieceo Fagetum; etajul montansuperior incepe de la 0 altitudinede aproximativ 1200 m si arelimita superioara oscilanta, intre1700 1750 m altitudine. Pana la1750 m altitudine, molidisurileformeaza arborete compacte, cuelemente florale europene,eurasiene, montan-eurasiene sialpine, circumboreale; etajulsubalpin se situeaza deasupralimitei padurilor, intre 1700 m si

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    61950 m, deoarece se acumuleaza un plus de caldura pe versantul sudic al MuntilorCalimani, Asociatiile dominante sunt cele de Pinetum mugi carpaticum(Jneapanul), care formeaza jnepenisuri dese cu exemplare ce depasesc 2 mlungime, iar la altitudinea la 1990 m, ating doar 40 50 de cm. Pe versantii varfuluiIzvorul Calimanului, molidisurile apar amestecate cu ienupar, apartinandasociatiei Piceeto Juniperetum nanae, urcand pana la 1950 m altitudine; etajulalpin este dominat de pajistile alpine din jurul varfurilor care au peste 1800 maltitudine. Ciclulde vegetatie fiindfoarte scurt,speciile inflorescin aceeasi perioadadetimp.

    Jnepsnls

    FaunaMunt11Ca Lim a n sunt

    importanti si dinpunct de vederefaunistic. Studiilecomplexeefectuate asupramicroartropodeloredafice, auevidentiat existenta a 236 specii de nevertebrate care traiesc in sol, mai ales inmolidisurile de limita si tufarisurile subalpine. Speciile existente suntcaracteristice padurilor de conifere din Romania, cu participarea ai a unor speciidin zona boreala europeans,Avifauna Calimanilor este mai saraca datorita conditiilor aspre montane si

    permanentei prezente umane la exploatarile miniere, pastorit, etc. In golurile demunte, in jnepenisuri si crapaturile de stanci, lumea pasarilor este slabreprezentata, intalnindu-se specii de fasa de munte (Anthus spinoletta), brumaritaalpina (Prunella collaris), codros (Phoenicurus ochrurus), corb (Corvus corax),vinderel (Falco tinnunculus), pietrar (Oenanthe oenanthe), codobatura alba sicenusie (Motacilla alba, M. cinerea), specii de rapitoare (Milvus milvus, M.migrans, Accipiter gentiles, Buteo buteo). Avifauna molidisurilor cu zambru esteconstituita din 25 specii, din care reprezentative sunt cocosul de munte (Tetraourogallus), ierunca (Tetrastes bonasia), cocosul de mesteacan (Tetrao tetrix).Mamiferele sunt reprezentate in special de ierbivore - cerbul (Cervus elaphus

    carpaticus),caprioara Capreolus capreolus), omnivore - mistretul (Susscrofa), ursul Ursus arctos), dar si carnivore -lupul (Canis lupus), rasulLynx lynx,vulpea Canis vulpes), etc.

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    7Rezervatia "12Apostoli"Localizare: creasta ce forrneaza cumpana apelor dintre bazinele paraielor

    Neagra Sarului si Poiana Negri si coboara dinspre Caliman peste culmile Tamau sipietrele Rosii spre varfurile Lucaciu si orasul Vatra Doruei, adaposteste multefiguri zoomorfe si antropomorfe, "sculptate" de intemperii in decursul vremurilor,

    Rezervatia "12 Apostoli"

    constituite din fragmete de lava cimentata,Grupul de stanci ce formeaza rezervatia este eel mai important si cuprinde

    "sculpturi" fantastice, ca de exemplu figura unui mos cu barba spre nord, a unuibatran spre sud, a unui urs cu capul plecat, a unei femei ce aminteste de siluetafaraoanei Nefertiti, etc. Figura batranului se evidentiaza prin aceea ca are "trei"fete distincte, orientate spre cele trei carari ce se indreapta spre el :catre Gura Haitii- 0 fata lata, brahicefala; spre Nord - un cap mai mic, cu 0 frunte mai ingusta si 0barba alungita, spre Sud - 0 fata mai inalta si ingusta, de tip dolicocefal, avandparca si un coif pe crestet,

    Originea acestor formatiuni megalitice este certa: modelarea eoliana,dezagregarea fizica, eroziunea aglomeratelor, etc., dar s-au inaintat si ipoteze caresustin "modelari " provocate de om. Alaturi de aceste formatiuni se gasescjnepenisuri si ienuparete de pe versantul vestic care adapostesc cocosul demesteacan (Lyrurus tetrix) - monument al naturii, argumente suficiente pentruinfiintarea in 1971 a acestei rezervatii, unica de acest fel in Bucovina. Suprafatarezervatiei este de cca. 200,00 ha.

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    8Itinerariile unor vechi civilizatiiBasmele vorbesc destul de frecvent despre uriasi, In aceasta mitologie

    populara, uriasii sunt niste fapturi lenese, mereu puse pe galceava, cam greoi ingandire, razbunatori, sangerosi (chiar antropofagi). Mai putine povesti arata 0 altafata a uriasilor: oameni cu capacitati fizice si psihice iesite din comun, constructoriextraordinari ai cladirilor colosale. Aproape in toate mitologiile popoarelor lumiiaparpersonaje uriase: titani, gig anti in mitologia gre aca, Tiamat la mesopotamieni,Purusha la indienii vechi, sau ... capcauni la romani. Dincolo de basme, mituri,folclor, mai toate mitologiile povestesc despre stirpea gigantilor ca despre nisteaccidente genetice penibile rezultate din relatia intre eroii cosmici si pamantenceleale caror farmece au deviat atitudinile civilizatoare ale invatatorilor veniti dinhatisurile timpului si ale spatiului, De altfel,spun legendele, potopul (regasit si in Biblie) s-a revarsat peste pamant tocmai pentru aimpiedica dorninatia uri asi lor asupracivilizatiei umane. Peste tot in lume neintalnim cu urmele lasate de uriasi: dinAmerica de Sud in Insula Pastelui, din Europade vest pana in Siberia. Si in legendeleromanesti existenta uriasilor mai este inca vie.

    In Bucovin~, in Munti i Calirnan,montaniardul intalneste un misterios grupstatuar denumit "12 Apostoli", 0 ingramadirede stanci cu aspect ciudat, ca si cum ar fi fostsculptate de maini gigantice: animale, pasari,reptile, figuri antropomorfe, intre care de-adreptul impresionanta este figura Mosului - uncap putemic, incruntat, ca al unui urias dintr-unbasm.

    Prof. univ. dr. Traian Naum, intr-oconvorbire cu Simion Saveanu ne relateazadespre Caliman :

    Am intalnit numeroase forme statuare dispuse in jurul varfului Lucaciu, al PietrelorRosii si Tamaului, Un urias promontoriu carecoboara spre Vatra Domei dar si pe flanculsudic al masivului, din varful Ciunget si panain Valea Muresului, Cel mai important grupeste eel caruia i se spune DoisprezeceApostoli , format din tot atatea stane de piatra, Potecile de creasta tree in modobligatoriu prin fata acestui veritabil sanctuar situat in partea cea mai inalta amuntelui; in spatele lui versantul este prapastios, Este orientat spre singurul drumde acces ce urmare~te Neagra Sarului ~i mai ales Valea Haitei. Dintre cele 12

    ~o .)

    ~

    Gravuri preistorice

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    9"statui" , mai spectaculoase, prin asezarea lor fata in fata, sunt doua busturi cuinaltimi ce depasesc 15 metri : Mosul , la nord si Maresalul , la sud. Batranulintruchipat in stanca are 0 caracteristica aparte :trei fete distincte orientate spre celetrei poteci ce se indreapta spre el ; catre valea Haitei 0 fata lata (brahicefala) ; sprepoteca din dreapta ce vine dinspre varful Lucaciu un cap mai mic, cu frunteaingusta, maxilarul alungit si continuat cu 0 barba prelunga ; calatorul ce strabatepoteca din stanga priveste 0 fata inalta si ingusta (dolicocefala), cu un coif

    Grupul statuar "12 Apostoli"

    deasupra capului",Aceste stanci, intruchipand chipuri enigmatice, au aprins mai intai imaginatia

    ciobanilor care si-an manat pana sus, pe pasunile alpine, turmele de oi, vrajindu-ideopotriva pe drumetii care, oprindu-se sa admire frumusetea muntilor, au incercatde fiecare data sa descifreze, precum 0 facem adesea si cu norii, asemanari alepietrei cu fapturile ce traiesc pe pamant.

    Asemenea "statui" ar fi, dupa parerea multor istorici, geografi si geologi, jocuriale vanturilor, ploilor, zapezilor, temperaturilor scazute si celor ridicate. Si nunumai. Sunt, insa, si specialisti care sus tin ca aceste monumente din piatra suntcreatii umane. Din aceasta categorie a facut parte si istoricul roman NicolaeDensusianu care, in lucrarea "Dacia preistorica", ce aparea in 1913, emitea ipotezecu privire la existenta unor astfel de formatiuni stancoase, pe care le-ar fi lucrat 0populatie foarte veche.

    N. Densusianu identifica statuia "Mosu'' ca simulacru allui Saturu (Cronos),preluat in mitologia romana ca zeu al adancurilor terestre ascunse, intocmaiatributelor zeului sumerian Enki, dar si cu perechile de zei Babbar - "Zeul Soarelui"

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    10si sora lui Inanna - "Zeita care asigura fertilitatea ogoarelor si fecunditateafemelelor animale", atribute identice cu ale zeului Apollo si sora acestuia, Artemis(Diana), localizati in zona fluviului Istru.

    Concluziile lui N. Densusianu aveau sa fie confrrmate si de peruanul DanielRuzo care, urmare a studiilor efectuate in tara noastra (1967-1968) conchide:"Carpatii sunt intr-o regiune a lumii in care se situa centrul european al celei maivechi culturi cunoscut in ziua de azi" . Referindu-se la "sculpturile megalitice" dintara noastra - printre care a fost inclus si "MOSV" - acelasi arheolog afirma caprezinta particularitati comune cu cele descoperite de el in Peru (platoulMarcahuasi, aproape de Lima), in Franta, Anglia, Egipt, apartinand unei civilizatiiprimordiale, dupa epoca picturilor rupestre.

    Povestea din Muntii Caliman ar fi ramas strict geologica daca in 1987, dupa 0suita de ploi torentiale, un tanar, Claudiu Pata, n-ar fi descoperit pe valea Paltinu unmegalit gravat, reprezentand 0 figura antropoida si simboluri solare (acest obiect seafla la punctul muzeal de la Gura Haitii).

    In legatura cu acest megalit, autorii lucrarii "Muntii Caliman", Traian Naum siEmil Butnaru, fac urrnatoarele observatii: "Totalitatea gravurilor de pe laturaprincipala a megalitului sunt subordonate, prin modul in care au fost efectuate,cultului soarelui, marele cere cu raze "in turbina" reprezentand probabil disculsolar intalnit uneori in gravurile din Franta, Portugalia, Italia etc." Ei avanseazaipoteza apartenentei acestui bloc gravat la 0 constructie de tip dolmen.Reproducem alaturat si grafica acestui megalit realizat de autori. Aici se puneintrebarea: cine pe cine a influentat? Stancile zoo-antropomorfe pe cei aflati prinpartea locului in timpurile ancestrale sau viceversa? Cert este c a acest obiect existasi constituie una dintre cele mai vechi reprezentari a unui cult solar (sau necropolasolara) cunoscuta in istoria veche a Europei. Celor care doresc sa vada cu propriiilor ochi "taramul gigantilor" le propunem 0 vizita la aceasta rezervatie, avand capunct de plecare Vatra Doruei, de unde panala GuraHaitii sunt28 de kilometri.Informatil turisticeLocul de plecare spre megalitii ,12

    Apostoli" din muntii Caliman, este statiuneaVatra Doruei, din fata sediului Salvamont,care este de altfel punctul de plecare altuturor traseelor montane din BazinulDoruelor.Traseul este marc at cu triunghi albastru

    pe fond alb si parcurge centrul statiunii,ajungand la baza statiei de plecare aTelescaunului. De aici urrnareste cale de 3km linia telescaunului, turistii putand optapentru a parcurge aceasta distanta pe jos sau

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    11eu teleseaunul. In eontinuare, poteea pastreaza ereasta principala trecand printr-oserie de poieni dintre care eele mai importante sunt Poiana Spanzului si PoianaSnopului, pe langa varful Buza Serbii, Dupa aproximativ 6 ore se ajunge la izvorulparaului Apa Reee, punet in care turistii se pot alimenta eu apa, Din aeest loe traseulmareat eu triunghi albastru coboara in stanga erestei pe directia de mers spreeomuna Sarul Doruei sat N eagra Sarului (timp de mers 2 2 ore sijumatate),Pentru a ajunge la ,,12 Apostoli" turistii vor urma traseul mareat eu punet rosu

    care vine din stanga din eomuna Sarul Doruei (paralel eu traseul marc at eu triunghialbastru). Pana la ,,12 Apostoli" traseul se desfasoara in camp desehis pe creasta,ajungand foarte aproape de varful Lueaeiu (1770 m) pe partea sudica, Din aeestpunet se intra in Pareul National Caliman - Rezervatia geologica" 12Apostoli", DelaloeulApaReee pana la 12Apostoli timpulde mers este de aproximativ 1 -1 ora sijurnatate,In eontinuare spre satul Gura Haitii (1 050 m altitudine, 27 km distanta de VatraDoruei), se va pareurge de la 12 Apostoli traseul de creasta marc at in paralel eupunet rosu si punet albastru catre varful Pietrele Rosii, Dupa aproximativ 15minute de la 12Apostoli se ajunge la un loe de intersectie de unde se va urma traseulmarc at eu punet albastru. Poteea pareurge un traseu descendent de aproximativ 1 - 1ora si jumatate prin desisuri de jneapan si apoi de padure tanara si inca lora prinpoieni. Punetul de final estela intersectia eu drumulasfaltat ee duee la fostaExploatare Caliman, De aieituristii pot ajunge la VatraDoruei eu autobuzul.Lungimea traseului fiind

    destul de mare propunemturistilor mai putin antrenatisa faca un popas de 0 noaptela punetulApa Reee.Munieipiul Vatra Doruei

    este atestat doeumentar dinanu11410. Primele incercaride dezvoltare a balneologieila Vatra Doruei au inceput inanii 1807 1811. Statiunea se afla intr-o depresiune intramontana la altitudinea deaproximativ 810m, la confluenta Bistritei Aurii eu Dorua, catre care eonvergeulmile muntilor Caliman, Giumalau, Suhard si la aproximativ 19 km spre est,muntii Bistritei,Statiunea beneficiaza de 0variata retea de hoteluri, baze de tratament, pensiuni,

    partii de sehi, instalatii de transport pe eablu.

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    OverviewThe Caliman Mountains are part of the volcanic range that rank the inner side ofthe Eastern Carpathians and is situated at the crossroads of the subduction

    mountains with the great depressions of Transylvania and Pannonia.The Caliman Mountains are included in the south group of the youngest

    mountains of our country, with craters that died 1.8-5 million years ago (in earlyQuaternary) and were formed in late Pliocene (the end ofTertiary-Neogen). Thismassif distinguishes by the greatest altitudes (Pietro sui Calimaniului 2100 m,Gurghiu 1776 m, Harghita 1800 m), that become lower and lower towards Tusnad(Ciomatu 1301 m). In this area there is a range of numerous volcanic conespartially destroyed by erosion an especially by collapses that resulted in hugehollows (with a diameter of 10kmin Caliman),

    Location. BoundariesThe Caliman Massif is situated in the north-west of the central group of theEastern Carpathians and it represents the vastest volcanic massif of Romania. It

    lies in the north-west south-east and it's bounded in the north by the depressions of

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    13Dornelor (Vatra Dornei) and by the smallmountains of Bargau; to the east thedepressions of Paltinis, Dragoiasa, Bilbor, Secuseparates it from the high mountains of Bistriteiand the hillocks of Giurgeului (south-east); tothe south the pass of Muresului is the boundbetween it and the volcanic mountains ofGurghiului; to the west the hills of Caliman giveonto the eastern part of the TransylvanianPlateau.These boundaries apply to the Caliman Massif as a mountain unit. However,

    from a tourist's point of view, its influence area gravitates towards Vatra Dornei,including Tara Dornelor (drained by the rivers of Neagra Sarului, Dorna andDornisoara), To the north-east, the influence area includes the Bistritei Valley withthe spa to be of Colibit a the gate to the paths that lead to the peak of Caliman,

    Cali man Spring

    .~ - _

    . . - -

    GeologyThe Caliman Massif belongs to the "andesite arch" that appeared on the

    Transylvanian and Pannonian blocks as a result of their collision with the Eurasianplaque from the eastern end of the Vienna Basin to the Carpathians curvature.The main element of the Caliman is the hallow situated in the north of the massif

    The wall of the Hollow

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    14with a diameter of approximately10 km. The agglomerates and thetuffs that are highly silicified,kaolin like and limonitic in theCaliman hallow enabled theappearance of the Luanei grottoeswith metallic stalactites andstalagmites while the agglomeratesin the high areas enabled thecarving of exquisite "statues" inthe "citadels" that have beensleeping for centuries.The upper basin of the Neagra

    River that has run through thecrater has the shape of a depression a huge crater bordered by mountains andmarked out by the highest peaks. Between the Calimanul Cerbului and CalimanIzvor, on the hallow edge, there is a crater of the second generation with a diameteroflkm.

    Ridge of the Pietrosul

    ClimateThe Caliman Mountains's climate is a mountain temperate one, corresponding

    to the Carpathians. Climate analyses have shown a climatic sub-type for the lowmountains and a climatic sub-type for the high mountains.a) the climatic stage of the low mountains with altitudes between 800m and

    l.700m distinguishes by the average length of time the sun shines, i.e. less thanl.800-l.900 hours/year and by high nebulousness of 6-7tens on the volcanicplateau. The annual average temperatures are between 4 and 6 Celsius degrees. Theamplitudes between the average temperatures of the warmest months (8-15

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    15Celsius degrees) and the coldestones (-6, -10 Celsius degrees) arebetween 18 and 21 Celsius degrees.The length of time without frost is140-160 days. Relative moistness ishigh, 84%-88%, and theprecipitations are of 600-1.300mm/year. The average layerof snow lasts between 80-120 days.b) at the climatic stage of the

    high mountains, on the plateausover 1.700-1.800m, and on thevolcanic cupolas of2.100m, the sunshines less than 1.800hours/yearand the nebulousness is over 7tens. The annual average temperatures are of -2Celsius degrees. The amplitudes between the average temperatures of the warmestand the coldest months are between 18-21 Celsius degrees. The average thicknessof the snow layer is between 50 and 100cm and the maximum thickness can be of250- 350cm. The layer of snow lasts approximately 200 days and the length of timewithout frost is less than 100 days on peaks. Relative moistness is over 88% and theprecipitations are ofl.000-l.400mm/year (most of it is snow).Every year, there are less than 40 clear days. Winds are frequent and their

    average speed is of 5-1Omls, and the maximum speed is sometimes over 40-45m/s,the snow being swept off and having the thickness of7 -8m in depressions.HydrographyBy its shape and structure specific to the volcanoes, the Caliman Massif make

    waters that cross it tributary to Somes, Mures and the Moldavian Bistrita disposeradially their courses. TheNeagra Sarului River gathersits waters from the northeruflank of the Caliman, fromthe inside of the deepvolcanic hallow. The watersof the northeru-westeru frontof the massif are collected bythe Calimanel, a tributary ofthe N eagra Sarului River thatmarks the contact betweenthe eruptive Caliman and thecrystalline mountains ofBistrita, The northern-westeru part is crossed by the

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    Dorna River and its tributaries.The Dorna, with its spring at analtitude of 1760 m, under theGrniu Peak, flows into the BistritaatVatra Dornei.The southern flank is drained

    by numerous rivers with largevalleys less abrnpt due to the factthe massif has the shape of slowsteps towards the Mures Passwhere water gathers. Towards theeast, there is the basin of the IlvaRiver with its tributaries, Tihu tothe right and the two Ilisoare(Mare and Midi). The (Transylvanian) Bistrita that marks the northern bound

    which separates the Caliman from the Bargau, gathers the waters of the westernflank. The Sieu flows under the Roghina Fagetului Peak from the west of theCaliman and joins the Somesul Mare that marks the bound between the southernpart of the RodnaMassif and the northern part of the Bargau Mountains.Lakes are rare in the Caliman such as the Iezernl Retitis, natural dam and the

    Colibita, artificial dam in the north, towards the Bargau Mountains.

    VegetationVegetation is Spruce Fir Forestsvaried and very

    original. It is easy todistinguish in theCaliman Mountainsthe followingcategories ofvegetation: themedium mountaincategory dominatedby ligneousphyto genesis thatbelongs toChrysanthemoRotundifolio PieceoFagetum; the uppermountain categorythat starts from approximately 1200 m whose upper limit is between 1700 1750 m.Up to 1750 m, sprnce firs form compact brnshes with European, Euro-Asian,mountain Euro-Asian and alpine floral elements; the sub-alpine category is above

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    17the forest limit, between 1700 m and 1950 m since there is a plus of heat on thesouthern side of the Caliman Mountains. The dominant associations are those ofPinetum mugi carpaticum (Juniper) that form thick juniper groups with trees over 2m high while at 1990 m they are only 40 50 em high. On the sides of the IzvorulCalimanului Peak, the spruce firs are mixed withjunipers belonging to the PiceetoJuniperetum nanae association, going up to 1950 m high; the alpine category isdominated by alpinelawns around the peaksover 1800 m high. Sincethe vegetation life isvery short, the speciesbloom in the sameperiod of time.FaunaThe Caliman

    Mountains are alsoimportant from a faunalpoint of view. Complexstudies on micro-arthropods have proventhe existence of 236species of invertebrates that live in soil, especially in the boundary spruce fir andsub-alpine shrub areas. The species are specific to the coniferous forests ofRomania although they include species of the European boreal area.The Caliman is poor in avifauna because of the severe mountain conditions and

    the human being always present for mining, grazing activities, etc. In the mountainhallows, juniper areas and rock rifts there are few birds, species such as water pipit(Anthus spinoletta), alpine accentor (Prunella collaris), black redstar (Phoenicurusochrurus), raven (Corvus corax), Eurasian kestrel (Falco tinnunculus), wheatears(Oenanthe oenanthe), white and grey wagtails (Motacilla alba, M. cinerea),species of prey (Milvus milvus, M. migrans, Accipiter gentiles, Buteo buteo). Theavifauna of the spruce fir areas is represented by 25 species and the most importantare the mountain cock (Tetrao urogallus), hazel hen (Tetrastes bonasia), and birchcock (Tetrao tetrix).Mammals are represented especially by herbivorous animals (Cervus elaphus

    carpaticus, Capreolus capreolus), omnivorous animals (Sus scrofa, Ursus arctos),and carnivorous animals (Canis lupus, Lynx lynx, Martes martes, Canis vulpes),etc.

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    18"12Apostles" PreserveSetting: the ridge that represents the crossroad between the Neagra Sarului andPoiana Negri basins and displays itself from the Caliman over the Tamau and

    Pietrele Rosii summits towards Lucaciu peaks and Vatra Dornei town is the shelterof many zoomorphic and anthropomorphous items, fragments of cement lava that

    "12 Apostles" Preserve

    have been "sculpted" by bad weather for centuries.The group of rocks that form the preserve is the most important one and it

    includes exquisite "sculptures" such as the face of an old man with bear to thenorth, the face of an old man to the south, a bent-headed bear, awoman that remindsof the she-pharaoh Nefertiti' figure, etc. The old man's face stands out by the fact hehas "three" different faces, each of them towards one of the three paths leading tohim: towards Gura Haitii a large brachycephalic face; to the north a smaller headwith a narrow forehead and a long chin, to the south a long and thin dolicocephalicface that seems to have a helmet on the head.The origin of these megalithic items is sure: wind carving, physical

    disintegration, agglomerate erosion, etc. However, there are hypothesis that pointout human "shaping". Besides these rocks, there are juniper areas on the westernside with birch cocks (Lyrnrns tetrix) monument of nature. All these are evidencesthat led in 1971 to settle this preserve unique in Bucovina. The surface of thepreserve is approximately 200,00 ha.

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    Fairy tales are often about giants. In folk mythology, giants are lazy,quarrelsome, revengeful and murderous creatures with a poor mind (even man-eaters). There are also some stories that show a different side of giants: men withextraordinary physical and psychical abilities, constructors of enormousbuildings. In almost all world mythologies, there are giants: titans, giants in theGreek mythology, Tiamat with the Mesopotamians, Purusha with the old Indians,or ... ogres with the Romanians. Beyond fairytales, myths, folklore, almost all themythologies talk about the giants' origin as ifthey were negative genetically results of thelove affairs between cosmic heroes andwomen whose charm deviated the civilizingattitudes of the wise creatures that had comefrom a different space and time. However, aslegends say, the flood (mentioned by the Bible,too) overflow the earth in order to prevent thegiants' domination over the humancivilization. There are giants' marksworldwide: from SouthAmerica to the EasteruIsland, from Westeru Europe to Siberia. Thegiants' existence is still alive in the Romanianlegends.In Bucovina, in the Caliman Mountains, the

    mountaineer encounters a mysterious group ofstatues called" 12Apostles", a bunch of rockswith strange shapes as if they were sculpted byhuge hands: animals, birds, reptiles,anthropomorphic faces, among which themost impressive is the Old Man's face a strongfrown head as if it were that of a giant's from afairy tale.Prof. Dr. Traian Naum, in a dialogue with

    Simion Saveanu, talks about the Caliman:"I encountered numerous around the Lucaciu peak, the

    Pietrele Rosii and the Taman. A huge promontory that gets lower and lower toVatra Doruei and also on the south side of the massif, from the Ciunget peak downto Muresului Valley. The most important group is the one called , made up of twelve rocks. Ridge paths pass in front of this genuinesanctuary situated on the highest part of the mountain; behind it the slope is abrupt.

    Itineraries of ancient civilizations

    19

    "0 .)

    ~

    Prehistoric Engravings

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    20It is oriented towards the only access road along N eagra Sarului and especiallyValea Haitei. Among the 12 , there are two more spectacular busts, one infront of the other, that have 15 meters high: to the north and to the south. The Old Man the rock represents has a particular feature:three different faces towards three paths that lead to him; towards Haitei Valley abroad (short-headed) face; towards the right path that comes from Lucaciu peak asmaller head, with a narrow forehead, a long jaw that ends up with a long beard;

    The "12 Apostles" Statues

    tourists who take the left path see a long and narrow (dolichocephalous) face with a".These rocks representing enigmatic faces put at first the shepherds' imagination

    at work who led their flocks to the alpine lawns and then charmed the tourists whostopped to admire the beauty of the mountains and tried every time, in the same waywe do with the clouds, to find similarities between the rocks and the creatures on theearth.These "statues" could be, in many historians, geographers and geologists'

    opinion, the results of winds, snows, low and high temperatures. However, thereare specialists that claim these stone monuments to be human creations. NicolaeDensusianu was part of the latter category and in his work "Prehistoric Dacia"published in 19l3, he put forward hypothesis about the existence of an ancient

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    21population that had sculpted such rocks.N. Densusianu identified the statue "The Old Man" as a semblance of Saturn

    (Cronos), considered by the Roman mythology as the god of the hidden heart of theearth just like the Sumerian god Enki, and the god Babbar "God of Sun" and hissister Inanna "Goddess offield fertility and animal fecundity", identical featuresto the ones of Apollo and his sister, Artemis (Diana), located in the area of the Istmnver.N. Densusianu's conclusions were to be confirmed by Daniel Ruzo from Pem

    who, after some studies in our country (1967-1968) said: "the Carpathians are in aregion that used to be the European center of the oldest culture we have known tillnow". Referring to the "megalithic sculptures" in our country among which "TheOld Man" the archeologist said they had the same specific features as the ones hehad discovered in Pem (Marcahuasi plateau, next to Lima), in France, England,Egypt, that used to belong to a primordial civilization that lived after the epoch ofthe cave paintings.The story of the Caliman Mountains would have been strictly a geological one if

    it hadn't been for a young man, Claudiu Pata, who, after torrential rains, discoveredin 1987an engraved megalith representing an anthropoid figure and sun symbols(this object is now in the museum ofGura Haitii).About this megalith, the authors of "The Caliman Mountaiins", Traian Naum

    and Emil Butnam, make the following remarks: "All the engravings on the mainside of the megalith, by the way they were done, are subordinated to the sun cult,the big ray circle representing probably the sun disk found sometimes on theengravings in France, Portugal, Italy etc." They put forward the hypothesis thatthis engraved block was part of a megalith construction. Please find on the nextpage the picture of this megalith the authors have done. All this results in aquestion: who influenced who? Did the zoo-anthropomorphous rocks influencethe aborigines in ancestral times or vice versa? One thing is for sure, this objectexists and it's one of the oldest representations of the sun cult (or the sunnecropolis) known in the old history of Europe. We suggest to those who want tosee by themselves "the giants' land" to start their journey from Vatra Domei that is28 kilometers away from GuraHaitii.

    Tourist informationThe starting point to get to the

    megaliths called "12 Apostles" of theCaliman, is the spa ofVatra Domei, infront of the head office of Salvamontwhich is the starting point for allmountain hiking in the Basin ofDomelor.

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    22The route is marked with blue triangles on awhite background and it crosses the

    spa center reaching the bottom of the cable car. From here, it goes along the cablecar for 3 km, thus tourists can choose between walking this distance and going bycable car. From this point, the route keeps the main ridge passing through a seriesof clearings, the most important are: Poiana Spanzului and Poiana Snopului, nearby Buza Serbii peak. 6 hours later, tourists can reach the spring of the Apa Recerivulet where they can take clear water. Then, the route marked with blue trianglesgoes down to the left of the ridge, towards Sarul Doruei Commune - NeagraSarului village (2-2 and a half walkingdistance).In order to reach "12 Apostles",

    tourists can follow the route marked withred dots which comes from the left of theSarul Doruei commune (parallel to theroute marked with blue triangles). Until"12 Apostles", the route is in the open onthe ridge, getting near to the Lucaciupeak (1770 m) on the south side. Thispoint marks the entrance to the NationalPark of'Caliman the Geological Preserveof "12 Apostles". From Apa Rece to 12Apostles there is still 1-1 hour and a halfdistance.Heading the Gura Haitii village (1 050m high, 27 km from Vatra Doruei), theycan take from 12Apostles the ridge routemarked with red and blue dots towardsthe Pietrele Rosii peak. 15 minutes awayfrom 12 Apostles, they can reach acrossing and then take the route markedwith blue. The path gets down for 1-1 hour and a half through clusters of junipertrees and young forests and than another 1hour through clearings. The final pointis the intersection with the asphalt road that leads to the former Caliman quarry.Tourists can take from here the bus to Vatra Doruei.Since the route is so long, we suggest the tourists with less experience and

    training to have one night stop at theApa Rece.The Vatra Doruei Municipality was first mentioned in a document in 1410. The

    first attempts to develop balneology in Vatra Doruei were between 1807 1811.The spa is situated in an inter-mountain valley, at an altitude of 810m, the placewhere the Bistrita.Aurie meets the Dorua river, from where on can see the Caliman,Giumalau, Suhard Mountains and the Bistrita Mountains about 19 km to the east.The spa has a varied network of hotels, treatment points, boarding houses, skislopes, cable cars.

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    Bibliografie-Autoritatea Nationala pt. Turism, Legendele pietrelor; www.romaniatravel.ro-Leb Peter, Aries Mircea - in hiuisul legendelor; www.dacianemuritoare.go.ro-Naum T . Butnaru E. -Muntii Cdliman, Ed. Sport-Turism Bucuresti, 1989-Parcul National Caliman, www.calimani.ro-Saveanu S. - Aventuri prin tune lui timpului, Ed. Sport- Turism, Bucuresti, 1977Bibliography

    -National Authority for Tourism, The Rocks' Legends, www.romaniatravel.ro-Leb Peter, Aries M. - From a Legend to Another, www.dacianemuritoare.go.ro-Naum T. Butnaru E. - The Caliman Mountains, Sport-Turism PublishingHouse, Bucharest, 1989-The Calimai National Park, www.calimani.ro-Saveanu S. - Adventures in the Time Tunnel, Sport- Turism Publishing House,Bucharest, 1977

    CuprinsMuntil CalimanPrezentare generalaAsezare, LimiteGeologieClimaHidrografiaVegetatiaFaunaRezervatia "12 Apostoli"Itinerariile unor vechi civilizatiiInformatli turisticeBibliografie

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    SummaryCaliman MountainsOverviewLocation. BoundariesGeologyClimateHydrographyVegetationFauna"12 Apostles" PreserveItineraries of ancient civilizationsTourist informationBibliography

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    http://www.romaniatravel.ro/http://www.dacianemuritoare.go.ro/http://www.calimani.ro/http://www.romaniatravel.ro/http://www.dacianemuritoare.go.ro/http://www.calimani.ro/http://www.calimani.ro/http://www.dacianemuritoare.go.ro/http://www.romaniatravel.ro/http://www.calimani.ro/http://www.dacianemuritoare.go.ro/http://www.romaniatravel.ro/
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    Colectia CALATORII IN CARPATI1

    ITINERARIILE UNOR VECHI CIVLIZATIIMuntli Caliman

    Proiect alFUNDATIEI BALTAGULCampulung Moldovenesc - RomaniaCoordonator proiect: Gicii ILIESI

    Asistent coordonator: Cornel LUPESCUAcest prospect a fost publicat cu sprijinul financiar al Fundatiei "Carpatica"

    Fundatia Carpatica nu este responsabila de continutul publicatiei.

    JOURNEYS IN THE CARPATHIANS Colection1

    ITINERARIES OF ANCIENT CIVILIZATIONSCaliman Mountains

    A project ofBALTAGUL FOUNDATIONCampulung Moldovenesc - RomaniaProject co-ordinator: Gicii ILIESI

    Co-ordinator assistant: Cornel LUPESCUThis prospect has been published with the support of the "Carpathian Foundation"The "Carpathian Foundation" is not responsible for the content of the publication.

    Redactare texte I Text elaboration:Gica Iliesi

    Foto I Photo:Arhiva Parcului National "Caliman"

    Dumitru VladeanuTraducere I Translation:Irina ProtopTehnoredatare I Make-up:

    Cornel LupescuEditura I Publishiung house: Accent Print

    ISBN:Tipar/Printed by:

    ACCENT Print0230523586