Emulsii utilizate in

creme dermatologice

Cuprins

Excipientii pot fi grasi, pulrulenti (pudre) si lichizi

Dou tipuri de creme

Emulgatori pentru cele dou tipuri de cremeIstorieEmulsii

Tensioactivi

Emolientii

Moisturizers Hidratante

Waxes Ceara

ngroare

Active Ingredients Ingrediente

Culoare

Conservani

Concluzie

De-a lungul timpului, terapia dermatologica, dar si cosmetica au evoluat de la o exprimare empirica la una stiintifica, in functie de progresele inregistrate in domeniul biochimiei si farmacologiei de sinteza, in prezent dezvoltandu-se o adevarata industrie concurentiala de topice cutanate.Daca la inceputul secolului XX, farmacistul combina mai multe substante dupa prescriptia medicului, in prezent, aceste retele, numite magistrale\", sunt din ce in ce mai rare, locul lor fiind luat de produse cu eficienta asemanatoare sau crescuta, preparate industrial.

Tratamentul extern (local, topic) este propriu disciplinei dermatologice si cosmeticii, Iar aplicarea lui corecta da masura valorii specialistului care il prescrie. Exista o multime de forme de aplicare a substantelor acti in tratamentul extern, folosite diferentiat in functie de natura problemei cutanate specifice. Cele mai cunoscute forme de prezentare sunt pudrele, mixturile, lotiunile, uleiurile, gelurile, lacurile, sapunurile, pastele, cremele, pomezile (unguentele), colorantii, sprayurile.

Pentru ca un preparat topic sa fie util in scop profilactic si curativ, trebuie sa indeplineasca mai multe conditii:- sa fie inofensiv, adica sa nu contina substante iritante, alergizante, toxice etc; sa poata incorpora substante biologic acti, carora sa le faciliteze patrunderea in piele;

sa nu se altereze cu usurinta; sa corespunda tipului de piele (normala, uscata, grasa, seboreica) si tipului de leziune cutanata.Nu se aplica creme grase pe o piele seboreica sau pe leziuni zemuinde, ci doar creme antiseboreice, pentru ten gras, sau lotjuni, sprayuri, pudre. Pe o piele uscata sunt indicate formulele speciale pentru ten uscat, atopic, sensibil, care ajuta la hranirea, hidratarea si emolierea pielii.Preparatele topice au, in general, doua componente: principiul activ, constituit din una sau mai multe substante cu activitate biologica, si excipientul, adica hiculul.Excipientii sunt inactivi din punct de dere terapeutic si ajuta la formarea masei preparatului respectiv. Ei nu trebuie sa reactioneze cu substantele acti, modificandu-le proprietatile. Pot spori actiunea terapeutica a principiilor acti, favorizand transportul si absorbtia lor.

Excipientii pot fi grasi, pulrulenti (pudre) si lichizi.

Excipientii grasi, dupa origine, pot fi minerali, obtinuti prin distilarea fractionata (rafinarea) petrolului, cum ar fi parafina solida, vaselina, uleiul de parafina ori de vaselina. Excipientii grasi pot fi de origine animala, de pilda, untura de porc (axungia, seul), ianolina, ceara de albine, spermantetul (albul de balena, cetaceumui), untura de peste {oleum jecoris). Excipientii grasi getali sunt untul de cacao {butyrum cacao), colesterolul, stearina, uleiul de floarea soarelui, de in, masline, ricin, arahide, trandafir (bergamote), de soia, avocado, migdale dulci etc. Glicerina, produs rezultat prin saponificarea grasimilor getale si animale, este un excipient uleios miscibil cu apa, Are un rol emolient, hidratant, calmant si decongestionant, fiind folosita la prepararea diferitelor lotiuni, mixturi, creme, unguente.

Excipientii pulrulenti sunt reprezentati de pudrele inerte, care pot fi minerale (talc, oxid de zinc, caolin, bioxid de titan, sincat de magneziu) si getale (amidon din faina de grau sau orz, carbune getal, licopodiu). Din amestecul acestora cu lichide rezulta mixturile, iar din amestecul cu grasimi, pastele.Excipientii lichizi sunt reprezentati, in principal, de apa, dar si de alcoolul etilic, eter, cloroform, benzen. Ei formeaza solutiile apoase, alcoolice sau hidroalcoolice folosite in badijonari, comprese umede (prisnite), lotiuni capilare, bai. Actiunea lor este superficiala si bine tolerata de tegumente.Alta grupa de excipienti cu rol de liant intre dirsele componente ale unui amestec sunt agentii emulgatori sau de dispersie, care ajuta la formarea de emulsii sile. Emulsiile sunt un sistem dispers cu doua faze, formate din doua lichide nemiscibile - fazele apoasa si uleioasa. Dupa predominanta uneia sau alteia dintre faze, exista emulsii de tip apa in ulei (A/U) si emulsii de tip ulei in apa (Two Types of CreamsDou tipuri de creme

1. The first Type of Cream, a Barrier Cream , that locks moisture in the skin over a period of time , such as a protective cream, a healing cream, a night cream, a cleansing cream, a sun screen cream, and should be used for short periods of times Only, then washed and rinsed off so the Skin Can Breathe again. 1. Primul tip de Cream, o crema de protectie, care blocheaz de umiditate n piele pe o perioad de timp, cum ar fi o crema de protecie ", o crema de vindecare, o crema de noapte, o crema de curare, o crema ecran de soare", i ar trebui s fie folosite pentru perioade scurte de ori doar, apoi se spal i se cltete de pe astfel de piele pot respira din nou.

Note: Our bodies emit toxins through the skin daily, therefore the skin Must be able to breathe and not obstructed by means of a barrier cream for any length of time. Not: trupurile noastre emit toxinele prin piele de zi cu zi, prin urmare, pielea trebuie s fie capabil s "respire" i s nu fie mpiedicat printr-o crema de protectie pentru orice perioad de timp.

2. 2. The second type of cream , Daily Moisturizer Cream , is one that also acts as a daily moisturizer for your skin but will sink into the epidermis quickly - like a lotion . Al doilea tip de crema, zilnic Moisturizer Cream, este una care, de asemenea, acioneaz ca o crem hidratant de zi cu zi pentru pielea ta, dar se va scufunda n epiderma rapid - ca o loiune.

This type of cream allows the skin the breathe while drawing moisture to the skin so it does not become de-hydrated during the daytime. This cream functions as good foundation under make-up, a daily moisturizer after your bath, a facial day cream, or a spot cream for dry skin areas, Acest tip de crema permite pielii sa respire n timp ce tragere de umiditate la nivelul pielii astfel nct aceasta s nu devin de-hidratat n timpul zilei. Aceasta crema funcioneaz ca fundaie bun n make-up, o crema hidratanta de zi cu zi, dup baie, o crema de zi faciale, sau o crema de la faa locului pentru zonele piele uscat,

U/A). One thing I would like to stress is my belief that NO Essential or Fragrance Oil should ever be used when making any Baby/Children's products because these potent oils [with low molecular weight] can and will enter the bloodstream for a short period of time , and an infant or young child can NOT tolerate the EO or FO, as an adult, therefore, use herbal infusions ONLY when making products for babies and children . Un lucru a dori s subliniez este credina mea c NU eseniale sau parfum de petrol ar trebui s fie vreodat utilizat atunci cnd se face orice copil / e produse pentru copii, deoarece aceste uleiuri poteni [cu molecular] greutate sczut poate i va intra n fluxul sanguin, pentru o perioad scurt de timp, i un sugar sau copil mic poate tolera NU EO PENTRU sau, ca un adult, prin urmare, utilizarea pe baz de plante DOAR atunci cnd se face infuzii de produse pentru copii i sugari.

Emulsifiers for the two types of creams. Emulgatori pentru cele dou tipuri de creme.

For a All Natural Cream of the First type, one can use a Beeswax/borax combo as the emulsifier along with lecithin for a second emulsifier to bind the water and oil bases together. Pentru un natural Toate Crema de primul tip, se poate folosi o ceara de albine / Combo borax ca emulsificator lecitin, mpreun cu un emulgator pentru a lega dou baze de ap i ulei mpreun.

This type of cream is classified as a Water-in-Oil [W/O] type of emulsion . Acest tip de crema este clasificat ca un Hidro-n-ulei [W / O de tip] de emulsie. The water in the cream is suspended in the oil base. Apa din crema este suspendat n baza de ulei.

For the Second type of cream, one can use E-wax NF as the Emulsifier with or without the extra lecithin as a second emulsifier, since E-wax is a self emulsifier , the lecithin is not really necessary although I do use it since it is also so beneficial to your skin. Pentru al doilea tip de crem, se poate folosi ceara E-NF ca Emulsifier cu sau fr lecitin suplimentare ca emulsificator al doilea rnd, din moment ce E-ceara este un emulgator sine, lecitin nu este cu adevrat necesar, dei eu nu-l utilizai, deoarece este, de asemenea, att de benefic pentru pielea ta. Or you can still use the beeswax/borax combination by using a 70-75 % water base for the cream. Sau putei utiliza n continuare ceara de albine / combinaie de foraj de ap folosind o baza de 70-75% pentru crema.

Istorie

The appearance of skin care formulation dates to around 3000 BCE in ancient Egypt. Aspectul de formulare de ngrijire a pielii datele la aproximativ 3000 .Hr. n Egiptul antic. Most concoctions were prepared from natural materials. Cleopatra is said to have bathed in donkeys' milk to keep her skin smooth and supple. Cele mai multe bauturi au fost pregtite din materiale naturale. Cleopatra se spune ca au scldat n lapte de magari pentru a menine pielea neted i catifelat. One naturally occurring material used by the ancients was red ochre, or iron oxide. Un mod natural materiale utilizate de anticii era rou ocru, sau oxid de fier. Lumps of red ore were formed when iron oxidized or rusted. Bulgri de minereu de roii s-au format atunci cnd fier oxidat sau ruginite. The red iron oxide was found in burial tombs in ceremonial lip tints and rouge preparations. Oxid rou de fier a fost gsit n morminte de nmormntare n buza nuane de ceremonie i preparate Rouge. It was also used to draw the ancient cave pictures of animals, as seen in Altimira, and is still used in many makeup formulations Acesta a fost, de asemenea, utilizate pentru a atrage pestera poze vechi de animale, cum se vede n Altimira, i este nc utilizat n formulele machiaj multe

Figure 1. Figura 1. Phosphatidylcholine (PC). Phosphatidylcholine (PC).

today. astzi. Eye paints have also been found at ancient gravesites. vopsele oculare, de asemenea, au fost gsite la mormintele antice. These paints consisted primarily of a copper-based green ore called malachite that was mined from nearby quarries. Aceste vopsele consta ntr-o baz verde de minereu de cupru, care a fost numit malahit minat de la cariere din apropiere. Animal fat was combined with fragrant substances such as frankincense and myrrh to produce early skin ointments. More sophisticated creams and lotions were fine tuned through trial and error and passed down over many generations. grsimea animal a fost combinat cu substane aromate, cum ar fi tmie i smirn pentru a produce piele unguente devreme de eroare. Mai multe sofisticate creme i loiuni au fost fin reglate prin ncercri i n jos i a trecut peste mai multe generaii.

Emulsions Emulsii

The majority of creams and lotions are emulsions. Majoritatea creme i loiuni sunt emulsii. An emulsion can be defined simply as two immiscible fluids in which one liquid is dispersed as fine droplets in the other. O emulsie poate fi definit simplu ca dou lichide imiscibile ntr-un lichid care este dispersat picaturi fine, ca n celelalte. Homogenized milk is an example of a typical oil-in-water (o/w) emulsion. lapte omogenizate este un exemplu tipic de ulei-n-ap (o / w) emulsie. Milk fat (oil) is dispersed in water as fine droplets by the homogenization process. grsime din lapte (de ulei) este dispersat n ap ca picaturi fine, prin procesul de omogenizare. The reason the fat does not float to the top immediately is due to the presence of emulsifiers; in this case, a milk protein called sodium caseinate as well as several phopholipids. Motivul grsime nu pluti la nceput imediat se datoreaz prezenei a emulgatorilor; n acest caz, o proteina din lapte numita cazeinat de sodiu, precum i mai multe phopholipids. In the case of water-in-oil (w/o) emulsions, water is dispersed as droplets and suspended in the oil phase. n caz de ap-n-ulei (w / o) emulsii, apa este dispersat n picturi i n suspensie n faza de ulei. The nondispersed liquid or external suspending phase is also called the continuous phase. Mayonnaise, vinegar water dispersed as fine droplets in a continuous phase of soybean oil, is an example of a water-in-oil emulsion. Nondispersed sau externe de suspendare a fazei lichide este, de asemenea, numit faza continu,. Maioneza otet de ap dispersate picaturi fine, ca ntr-o continu faz de ulei de soia, este un exemplu de ap-n-ulei emulsie. Lecithin from eggs stabilizes the mayonnaise emulsion. Lecitina din ou stabilizeaz emulsie maioneza.

Tensioactivi

Most emulsifiers can be considered surfactants or surface-active agents. These materials are able to reduce the surface tension of water. Cele mai multe emulgatori pot fi considerate ageni tensioactivi sau agenilor activi de suprafa. Aceste materiale sunt capabile s reduc tensiunea superficial a apei. What makes an emulsifier surface active is related to its HLB, or hydrophile-lipophile balance. Ce face ca o suprafa activ emulgator este legat de HLB sale, sau lipophile echilibru hydrophile. HLB is determined by the size of the hydrophilic (water-loving or polar) portion of a molecule as compared to the size of the lipophilic (oilloving or nonpolar) portion. HLB este determinat de mrimea hidrofile (apa-iubitoare sau polar), parte a unei molecule n raport cu dimensiunea lipofile (oilloving sau nonpolar) porie. The HLB system was created to rank the relative polarity of materials. Sistemul HLB a fost creat pentru a clasifica polaritatea relativ a materialelor. The most polar, water soluble, materials are at the top of the twenty-point scale with more non-polar, oil soluble, materials closer to zero. Cele mai polare, solubile in apa, materialele sunt la partea de sus a-punctul de douzeci scar cu mai multe non-polare, solubile n ulei, materiale mai aproape de la zero. The HLB of sodium caseinate is assigned a value of around fourteen because of it's high solubility in water. Lecithin, being poorly soluble in water, has an HLB value of about six. Both have polar groups. HLB de cazeinat de sodiu se atribuie o valoare de aproximativ paisprezece din cauza este solubilitate mare n ap,. Lecitin fiind slab solubil n ap, are o valoare HLB de aproximativ ase. Ambele au grupe polare. The polar group in the milk protein is sodium. Lecithin's surface-active component is a molecule called phosphotidylcholine or PC (See Figure 1). Grupul polare n proteina de lapte este de sodiu este activ Lecitina de suprafa. Componenta o molecula numita phosphotidylcholine sau PC-ul (a se vedea figura 1). The polar, or water soluble part of PC is the phosphate functional group. Polare sau ap solubil parte din PC-ul este funcional de grup fosfat. The emulsifiers' polar groups orient toward the polar water phase. emulgatori "polare grupuri orienteze spre faza de ap polare. Their lipophilic, nonpolar groups oriented toward the oil phase to form micelles (see Figure 2). These spherical structures provide stability to the emulsion through Hydrogen bonding and weak electrical forces. Lor lipofile, grupuri nonpolar orientate spre faza de ulei pentru a forma micelii (a se vedea figura 2). Aceste structuri sferice pentru a asigura stabilitatea emulsiei prin lipire de hidrogen i fore electrice slabe.

Figure 2. Figura 2. Surfactant. Surfactant.

Skin-care emulsifiers can be divided into two groups based on ionic charge (See Figure 3). De ngrijire a pielii emulsificatori pot fi mprite n dou grupe bazate pe taxa ionice (a se vedea figura 3). Materials that can dissociate into charged species are considered ionic while those that do not are called nonionic. Materiale care pot disocia n practicate sunt considerate specii ionice, iar cele care nu sunt numite neionic. Ionic emulsifiers can be further classified by type of charge. emulgatori ionic mai poate fi clasificate dup tipul de taxa. Anionics are negatively charged when solvated as in sodium stearate or soap. Anionics sunt ncrcate negativ atunci cnd solvated ca n stearat de sodiu sau spun.

When fatty acids are reacted with alkali they form soaps. Cnd acizii grai sunt reacionat cu ele formeaz spunuri alcaline. The process of soap formation is called saponification. Procesul de formare a spun este numit saponificare. The negatively charged stearic acid group is the main emulsifying unit of the soap, giving it the anionic classification. Perceput de acid stearic grup negativ este de emulsionare principala unitate de spun, dndu-i de clasificare anionici. Positively charged emulsifiers are called cationic. Quarternium24's emulsifying unit dissociates into the positively charged ammonium group. perceput pozitiv sunt numite emulgatori cationici lui. Quarternium24 unitate disociaz de emulsionare n grupul de amoniu perceput pozitiv. Amphoterics are compounds that express both negative and positive charges. Amphoterics sunt compui care exprim att negative i pozitive taxe.

Nonionic emulsifiers are often used in skin-care emulsion for their safety and low reactivity. Emulgatori neionici sunt adesea folosite n ngrijirea pielii emulsie pentru sigurana lor i reactivitate sczut. They are generally classified by chemical similarity. Glycerin, commonly added to cosmetic emulsions for its humectant properties, is the backbone of a class of emulsifiers called Glyceryl esters . Acestea sunt, n general, clasificate n funcie de similitudine chimice,. Glicerina frecvent adaug la emulsii cosmetice humectant pentru proprietile sale, este coloana vertebral a unei clase de emulsificatori numite esteri Gliceril. Glyceryl monostearate, or GMS, is called a monoester because of its sole ester linkage (see Figure 4). gliceril monostearat, sau AGA, se numeste monoester din cauza unic legtura esterificai ai acestuia (a se vedea figura 4). The diester is prepared by esterifying two molecules of stearic acid for every molecule of glycerin. Diester se prepar prin esterifying dou molecule de acid stearic pentru fiecare molecul de glicerin. Glyceryl mono- and diesters are very effective emulsifiers because they contain both polar hydroxyl (OH) groups as well as non-polar fatty acids. Gliceril mono-i diesteri sunt eficiente emulgatori foarte deoarece conin att de hidroxil polare (OH) grupuri, precum i polare acizi grai-non. If all three of Glycerin's hydroxyl groups are reacted, the resulting triester will have little emulsifying capability. Dac toate cele trei grupe de hidroxil lui Glicerina sunt reacionat, triester rezultat va avea capacitatea de emulsionare pic.

Stearic acid is called C18 fatty acid. Acid stearic este numit de acizi grai C18. The fatty acids, present in fats and oils, are classified according to their carbon-chain lengths. Acizi grai, prezeni n grsimi i uleiuri, sunt clasificate n funcie de carbon lan lungimi lor. Because stearic acid is a major component of many of the fats and oils used in beauty treatments, stearate-based emulsifiers are particularly useful. Fatty acids are key components of many cosmetic emulsifiers due their miscibility in a variety of natural and synthetic oils. Deoarece acid stearic este o component major a multor grsimi i uleiuri folosite n tratamente de nfrumuseare, pe baz de emulgatori stearat sunt utile n special uleiuri. Acizi grai cheie sunt multe componente cosmetice de emulsificatori lor din cauza miscibilitatea ntr-o varietate naturale i sintetice de.

Figure 3. Figura 3. Structures of emulsifiers. Structuri de emulgatori.

Figure 4. Figura 4. Direct esterification of glycerine. esterificarea direct a glicerin.

Esters polyethylene glycol or ethylene glycol are called PEG esters. Esteri polietilen glicol sau etilen glicol sunt numite esteri PEG. A PEG ester's solubility is determined by the number of PEG molecules reacted per molecule of acid. PEG de ester de solubilitate A este determinat de numrul de molecule de PEG a reacionat pe molecul de acid. PEG 6 oleate for instance has six molecules of PEG reacted with one molecule of oleic acid. PEG 6 oleat, de exemplu, are sase molecule de PEG a reacionat cu o molecul de acid oleic. As the number of polar, PEG molecules per acid molecule increases the water solubility/HLB is increased; PEG 8 oleate is more soluble than PEG 6 oleate. Deoarece numrul de polare, PEG molecule de acid pe molecul crete solubilitatea n ap / HLB este crescut; PEG 8 oleat este mai solubil dect PEG 6 oleat. The cosmetic chemist will often use blends of glyceryl esters and a PEG ester with high and low HLB values to determine the required polarity to emulsify various fats and oils. Chimist cosmetice va folosi adesea amestecuri de esteri gliceril i un ester cu PEG i joas HLB valori ridicate pentru a determina polaritatea necesare pentru a emulsioneaz diferite grsimi i uleiuri. The many types of emulsifiers are too numerous to list here, however McCutcheon's Emulsifiers and Detergents is an excellent source for a more complete listing. Multe tipuri de emulsifianii, sunt prea numeroase pentru a lista de aici, cu toate acestea McCutcheon lui Emulgatori i detergeni este o sursa excelenta pentru o list complet mai mult.

Emollients Emolientii

The majority of emollients used in personal care and beauty items are fats and oils, also called lipids. Majoritatea emolientii utilizate n produse de ngrijire personal i de frumusee "sunt grsimi i uleiuri, de asemenea, numit lipidelor. Animal fat or tallow is composed primarily of stearic and palmitic acids with carbon chains lengths of 18 and 16 respectively. Grsime animal sau seu este compus n principal din acizi palmitic i stearic cu lungimi de lanuri de carbon de 18 i respectiv 16. Many of the major cosmetic companies are moving away from animal-based materials like tallow to renewable vegetable-based materials. Coconut oil and palm kernel oil are often used. Multe dintre marile companii cosmetice se ndeprteaz de pe baz de materiale de origine animal ca seu de legume pe baz de materiale regenerabile. Ulei de nuc de cocos i ulei de palmier kernel-ului sunt adesea folosite. Some of the key characteristics required in good emollients are good spreading properties, low toxicity/skin irritation and good oxidative stability. Unele dintre caracteristicile cheie necesare n emolientii bune sunt bune proprietati de raspandire, toxicitate redus / iritarea pielii i oxidativ buna stabilitate. Oleic acid, a major constituent of olive oil has poor oxidative stability due to the presence of its double bond. acid oleic, o component major de ulei de msline a oxidativ stabilitate sraci din cauza prezenei de dublu de obligaiuni sale. Fats and oils are considered saturated if they do not have double bonds. Grsimi i uleiuri sunt considerate saturate, dac acestea nu au legturi duble. Unsaturated oils like olive oil have double bonds that can react with oxygen, especially when heated. uleiuri nesaturate cum ar fi uleiul de msline au legturi duble care pot reaciona cu oxigen, n special atunci cnd este nclzit. The oxidation process can produce off colors and odors in lipids causing them to go rancid and unusable. Procesului de oxidare pot produce off culori i mirosuri n lipide care le determin s mearg rnced i inutilizabil.

Petroleum-based emollients such as petroleum jelly and mineral oil are found in many formulations because they do not contain double bonds or reactive functional groups. Pe baz de petrol, cum ar fi emolientii jeleu de petrol i uleiuri minerale se gasesc in multe forme, deoarece acestea nu conin legturi duble sau grupuri funcionale reactive. Silicone oils such as cyclomethicone, dimethicone are often added to increase slip and emolliency (See Figure 5). uleiuri de silicon, cum ar fi cyclomethicone, dimethicone sunt adesea adugat pentru a crete alunecare i emolliency (a se vedea Figura 5).

Oils that contain high levels of essential fatty acids, EFAs, are prized for their ability to replenish lipids (oils) that are found naturally within the skin layers. Uleiuri care conin niveluri ridicate de acizi grai eseniali, acizi grasi esentiali, sunt apreciate pentru capacitatea lor de a umple lipide (uleiuri) care se gsesc n mod natural n straturile pielii. Linoleic acid is an example of an EFA. Acidul linoleic este un exemplu de EFA. Long-chain alcohols, also called fatty alcohols, are useful as emollients and emulsion stabilizers. -Alcooli cu lan lung, numit, de asemenea, alcooli grai, sunt utile ca emolientii i stabilizatori emulsie. Their polar hydroxyl groups orient to the water phase with their fatty chains oriented towards the oil phase. Lor hidroxil grupe polare se orienteaz ctre faza de apa cu grai lanurile lor orientate spre faza de ulei. Esters of fatty alcohols and fatty acids make excellent emollients because of their low reactivity and good stability. Esteri de alcooli grai i acizi grai face emolientii excelente sczut din cauza reactivitii lor i buna stabilitate.

Lanolin, derived from sheep's wool, is often called wool grease. Lanolin has been used for centuries due to it's unique composition of complex sterols, fatty alcohols, and fatty acids. Lanolin, derivate din ln de oaie, este adesea numit de usuc. Lanolina a fost folosit de secole datorit compoziiei este unic de steroli complexe, alcooli grai, i acizi grai. Cholesterol, a cyclic molecule called Colesterol, o molecula numita ciclice

Figure 5. Figura 5. Dimethicone and cyclomethicone. Dimethicone i cyclomethicone.

a sterol, is a major component. o steroli, este o component major. The polar hydroxyl groups of sterols and alcohols enable the grease to absorb and hold water. Hidroxil grupe polare steroli i alcooli permite grasimi pentru a absorbi i rein apa. Skin is primarily composed of water, countless oils and emollients are used to nourish and protect it. Pielea este n primul rnd, compus din ap, uleiuri i nenumrate emolientii sunt folosite pentru a hrani si proteja aceasta.

Moisturizers Hidratante

The main distinction between moisturizers and emollients is their solubility in water. Principala distincie ntre hidratante i emolientii este solubilitatea lor n ap. Healthy skin requires moisture. pielea sntoas necesit umiditate. Moisturizers are generally polar materials that are hygroscopic in nature; they hold onto water. Hidratante sunt, n general, materiale care sunt polare higroscopic n natur; pe care le dein pe ap. An important tool to assess the efficiency of moisturizers is the high scope. Un instrument important pentru a evalua eficiena hidratante este domeniul de aplicare ridicat. It measures transepidermal water loss or TEWL. Este msuri de pierderea de ap transepidermal sau TEWL. After a moisturizer is applied to the skin, the moisture level is recorded. Dup o crema hidratanta este aplicat pe piele, nivelul de umiditate este nregistrat. After several minutes the moisture level will be reduced due to the natural tendency of the skin to release moisture over time. Dupa cateva minute nivelul de umiditate va fi redus datorit tendinei naturale ale pielii pentru a elibera de umiditate a lungul timpului. Ingredients that can maintain a high level of moisture in the upper layers of the skin for several hours can reduce the rate at which water is lost. Ingrediente care pot menine un nivel ridicat de umiditate n straturile superioare ale pielii pentru mai multe ore poate reduce rata la care apa se pierde. Glycerin is a very cost-effective ingredient used to help reduce TEWL. Glicerina este un cost-eficient ingredient foarte folosit pentru a ajuta la reducerea TEWL. Sorbitol, sucrose, glucose, and other sugars are also commonly used to hydrate the skin. Sorbitol, zaharoz, glucoz, i alte zaharuri sunt, de asemenea, utilizate frecvent pentru a hidrata pielea. Aloe, which contains a mixture of polysaccharides, carbohydrates, and minerals, is an excellent moisturizer. As skin becomes drier in the winter months, it may be necessary to incorporate materials that better seal the moisture in the skin. Aloe, care conine un amestec de polizaharide, carbohidrati si minerale, este un excelent hidratant. Deoarece pielea devine uscat n lunile de iarn, poate fi necesar s se ncorporeze materiale care sigiliu mai bine de umiditate din piele.

Waxes Ceara

Waxes are composed primarily of long-chain esters that are solid at room temperature. Cear sunt compuse n principal din esteri cu lan lung, care sunt solide la temperatura camerei. Anyone who has ever dipped a finger in molten wax has experienced its sealing properties. Oricine care a fazei de ntlnire vreodat un deget n cear topit de etanare a cunoscut proprietile sale. Some common waxes used in cosmetics are beeswax, candelilla, carnauba, polyethylene, and paraffin. Unele tipuri de cear comune utilizate n produsele cosmetice sunt cear de albine, candelilla, carnauba, polietilen, i parafin. The melting points of waxes vary widely depending on their unique composition and chain lengths. Puncte de topire de cear variaz n funcie de compoziia lor unice si lungimi lan. Commonly used in lip balms and sticks, waxes function as structuring agents, giving the stick enough rigidity to stand up on its own, as well as barrier properties. Frecvent utilizate n balsamuri de buze i bastoane, cear funcia de structurare a agenilor, oferindu-stick rigiditate suficient s se ridice pe cont propriu, precum si proprietati de bariera. By combining waxes with different properties such as high shine, flexibility, and brittleness, optimal cosmetic performance can be achieved. Prin combinarea cear cu proprieti diferite, cum ar fi de mare strlucire, flexibilitate, i fragilitate, cosmetice performane optime poate fi atins. Often waxes are combined with compatible oils to achieve the desired softness. Adesea cear sunt combinate cu uleiuri compatibile pentru a atinge moliciunea dorit. Compatibility is generally determined by gauging the turbidity and degree of separation of two materials mixed together above their melt points. Compatibilitatea este n general determinat de gabarit turbiditatea i gradul de separare a dou materiale mixte mpreun de mai sus lor topi puncte. Waxes are particularly useful in hand creams and mascara emulsions for their thickening and waterproofing properties. Cear sunt deosebit de utile n mn creme i emulsii rimel pentru ngroarea i proprietile lor hidroizolatii.

Thickeners ngroare

By incorporating enough wax into a thin lotion, a thick cream can be formed. Prin ncorporarea ntr-o ceara destul de lotiune subire, o crem groas poate fi format. Many thickeners are polymers. Muli ageni de ngroare sunt polimeri. Cellulose, a fine powder polymer of repeating Celuloz, un polimer pulbere fin de a repeta

Figure 6. Figura 6. Cellulose and carbopol. Celuloz i Carbopol.

D-glucose units, swells in hot water creating a gel network. uniti de D-glucoz, se umfl n ap fierbinte crearea unei reele de gel. Carbopol, a polyacrylic acid, swells when neutralized (See Figure 6). Carbopol, un acid poliacrilic, atunci cnd se umfl neutralizate (a se vedea figura 6). Bentone clays swell when their structure, resembling a stack of cards, is opened up through mechanical shear. Bentone argile umfla atunci cnd structura lor, asemntoare cu un teanc de cri, este deschis prin forfecare mecanice. Carrageenan, pectin, and locust bean gum are all examples of cosmetic thickeners that are also used in some of our favorite foods such as jellies, salad dressings, and pie fillings. Caragenan, pectina, guma de salcm i fasole, toate sunt exemple de ageni de ngroare cosmetice, care sunt, de asemenea, utilizate n unele dintre mancarurile noastre preferate, cum ar fi jeleuri, sosuri pentru salate, umpluturi i plcint.

Active Ingredients Ingrediente

Materials that work physiologically within the skin or aid in protecting the skin from insult are also called active ingredients. Materiale c munca fiziologic n termen de piele sau de ajutor n protejarea pielii de la insulta sunt numite, de asemenea, ingrediente active. The term "cosmeceuticals" coined by famed dermatologist Dr. Albert Kligman, refers to a product that is in-between a cosmetic and a drug. Although a cosmetic, by legal definition, can only serve to beautify and protect the surface of the skin, many cosmetic products can be shown to penetrate the dermal layers of the skin to exact a physiological change. Termenul "cosmeceuticals" inventat de celebrul dermatolog Dr. Albert Kligman, se refer la un produs care este n ntre un cosmetice i de un drog. Dei o cosmetice, prin definiie juridic, poate servi doar pentru a nfrumusea i a proteja suprafaa pielii, multe produse cosmetice pot fi afiate pentru a penetra straturile dermice ale pielii la exact o schimbare fiziologic.

Fruit acids are an example of an active material. Acizi de fructe sunt un exemplu de material activ. Also called alpha hydroxyacids or AHAs, they have the ability to penetrate the skin, where they can increase the production of collagen, elastin, and intracellular substances thus improving the appearance of the skin. De asemenea, numit hidroxiacizi alfa sau AHA, acestea au capacitatea de a ptrunde n piele, n cazul n care acestea pot crete producia de colagen, elastina, precum i substanele intracelulare mbuntind astfel aspectul pielii. Thousands of cosmetic actives are used to affect the skin in a variety of ways. Mii de cosmetice active sunt folosite pentru a afecta pielea intr-o varietate de moduri. They are used to lighten, tighten, and firm the skin. Acestea sunt utilizate pentru a uura, strngei, si firma de piele. They can be used to suppress perspiration as in the case of aluminum chlorohydrate. Ele pot fi folosite pentru a suprima perspiration ca i n cazul de chlorohydrate aluminiu. Salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide are important ingredients because of their anti-acne activity (See Figure 7). Acid salicilic i peroxidul de benzoil sunt ingrediente importante, din cauza anti-acnee activitii lor (a se vedea figura 7). Some active materials are added to skin treatments to protect the skin from the environment. Unele materiale active sunt adugate la tratamente piele pentru a proteja pielea de mediul nconjurtor. Dimethicone and petrolatum are examples of skin protectants. Dimethicone i petrolatumului sunt exemple de protectants Produsele de protecie solar pielii.

Sunscreens

Sunscreens are a class of compounds that protect the skin from ultraviolet radiation. Produsele de protecie solar sunt o clas de compui care protejeaz pielea mpotriva radiaiilor ultraviolete. Wavelengths between 290nm and 400nm are particularly damaging to the skin. Lungimi de und ntre 290nm i 400nm sunt deosebit de nocive pentru piele. Sunscreens' ability to absorb or reflect these damaging wavelengths are rated by their SPF or sun-protection factor. Produsele de protecie solar "capacitatea de a absorbi sau reflecta aceste lungimi de unda sunt daunatoare evaluat de SPF lor sau de protecie solar cu factor. For instance a person protected with a factor-15 sunscreen will be able to stay in the sun fifteen times longer than if unprotected. De exemplu, o persoan protejat cu un factor de protecie solar-15 va putea s stea n soare cincisprezece ori mai lung dect n cazul n care neprotejat. Octyl methoxycinnamate, octyl salycilate, titanium dioxide, and avobenzone are some important topical sunscreens. octilmetoxicinamatul, salycilate octil, dioxid de titan, i avobenzone sunt unele de actualitate produsele de protecie solar importante. They can be classified as either UVA or UVB sunscreens depending the wavelengths they absorb. Acestea pot fi clasificate fie ca produsele de protecie solar UVA sau UVB, n funcie lungimi de und acestea absorb. Benzophenone 4, a water-soluble UV filter, is commonly used to protect the color of cosmetic products. Benzofenona 4, solubil n ap filtru UV, este de obicei folosit pentru a proteja culoarea de produse cosmetice.

Figure 7. Figura 7. Structure of Benzoyl peroxide. Structura de peroxid de benzoil.

Color Culoare

Pigments and dyes are used in products to impart a color. Pigmeni i colorani sunt utilizate n produsele pentru a da o culoare. Titanium dioxide (TiO 2 ) is a white pigment that is mined. Dioxid de titan (TiO 2) este un pigment alb care este minat. In combination with natural mined and synthetic iron oxides, which range in color from red, yellow, black and brown, depending upon the degree of oxidation and hydration, a range of color can be produced that will be suitable for almost every skin tone. Face powders are produced by blending inorganic oxides and fillers. Fillers are inert, generally inexpensive materials such as kaolin, talc, silica, and mica that are used to extend and fully develop colors. n combinaie cu oxizi de fier minate sintetice i naturale, care variaz de la culoare de la rosu, galben, negru i maro, n funcie de gradul de oxidare si hidratare, o gam de culoare pot fi produse care vor fi potrivite pentru aproape orice tonul pielii. Feei pulberi sunt produse prin amestecul de oxizi anorganici i de umplutur. umplutur sunt inerte, n general, materiale ieftine, cum ar fi caolin, talc, dioxid de siliciu, i de mic, care sunt folosite pentru a extinde i dezvolta pe deplin culori. Pressed powders like eyeshadows and blushers are prepared by blending additional binding ingredients such as oils and zinc stearate and pressing the mixture into pans. pulberi presat ca eyeshadows i blushers sunt pregtite prin amestecarea ingredientelor obligatorii suplimentare, cum ar fi uleiurile i stearat de zinc i presarea amestecului n buctrie.

Eyeshadows and lipsticks often contain pearlescent pigments commonly called pearls. Eyeshadows i rujuri conin pigmeni perlate adesea cunoscuta sub numele de perle. Pearls sparkle and reflect light to produce a multitude of colors. Perle scnteie i reflect lumina pentru a produce o multitudine de culori. They are prepared by precipitating a thin layer of color on thin platelets of mica. Ele sunt pregtite de precipitare un strat subire de culoare pe trombocite subire de mica. Varying the thickness of the color deposited changes the angle of light refracted though the composite, creating different colors. Variind grosimea stratului de culoare depuse modificri unghiul de lumin refractate, dei compozit, crearea de diferite culori.

Organic pigments are used to color lipsticks and eyeshadows. Pigmenti organici sunt utilizate pentru rujurile de culoare i eyeshadows. When organics are precipitated on a substrate they are called lake pigments. Cnd organice sunt precipitate pe un substrat sunt numite pigmeni lac. The term lake refers to the laking or precipitating of the organic salt onto a metal substrate such as aluminum, calcium, or barium. Lacul Termenul se refera la laking sau de precipitare de sare organic pe un suport metalic, cum ar fi aluminiu, calciu, sau de bariu. They are called D&C (drug and cosmetic) and FD&C (food, drug and cosmetic) colors. Ele se numesc D & C (de droguri i cosmetice) i & C (produse alimentare, de droguri i cosmetice) FD culori. Some examples are D&C Red#7 calcium lake and FD&C Yellow #5 aluminum lake. Cteva exemple sunt D & C Red # 7 de calciu lac i FD & C galben # 5 lac de aluminiu. Dyes such as FD&C Blue#1 and D&C Yellow #10 are readily soluble as opposed to pigments, which are insoluble. Colorani, cum ar fi FD & C Blue # 1 i D & C galben # 10 sunt uor solubile, spre deosebire de pigmenti, care sunt insolubile. Dyes are useful in providing tints for lotions, oils, and shampoos. Colorani sunt utile n furnizarea de culori pentru lotiuni, uleiuri, precum i ampoane.

Preservatives Conservani

Most cosmetic products require the addition of preservative to prevent microbial contamination and rancidity. Majoritatea produselor cosmetice necesit adugarea de conservant pentru a preveni contaminarea microbian i rnced. Parabens and ester of parabenzoic acid are by far the most commonly used because of their effectiveness against gram-positive bacteria. Parabeni i esterul de acid parabenzoic sunt de departe cele mai frecvent utilizate din cauza eficienei lor mpotriva bacteriilor gram-pozitive. Phenoxyethanol is used to protect against gramnegative strains. Fenoxietanolului este folosit pentru a proteja mpotriva tulpini gramnegative. The cosmetic chemist will generally employ a mixture of preservatives to protect against different bacterial strains as well as yeasts and molds. Chimist cosmetice va angaja, n general, un amestec de conservare pentru a proteja mpotriva tulpini bacteriene diferite, precum i drojdii si mucegaiuri. Antioxidants such as tocopherol (vitamin E) and BHT are also added to prevent oxidation of sensitive ingredients as well as protect the skin from free-radical damage. Antioxidantii, cum ar fi tocoferol (vitamina E) i BHT sunt, de asemenea, adaug pentru a preveni oxidarea ingredientelor sensibile, precum i proteja pielea de-radical liber daune.

Conclusion Concluzie

As long as society continues to puts great emphasis on looking young and beautiful cosmetic chemistry will continue to flourish. Atta timp ct societatea continu s pune un accent deosebit pe cutarea i frumos cosmetice chimie tinerii vor continua sa infloreasca. A good understanding of the fundamentals of emulsion chemistry and skin physiology are prerequisites, when formulating personal care products. O bun nelegere a fundamentelor de chimie emulsie i fiziologia pielii sunt premise, atunci cnd formuleaz produse de ngrijire personal. A good cosmetic chemist must be able to combine science and art to create products with the feel and look that consumers desire. Un chimist cosmetice bun trebuie s fie capabil s combine tiina i arta de a crea produse cu simti si sa arati ca dorinta consumatorilor.

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