Ct Burn Dublu

7/29/2019 Ct Burn Dublu

1/17

Pattern Alterations

# 25-35


2/17

Width Adjustments Bicep

Cut through seam allowance atdot at top of sleeve cap.Remove seam allowance downto elbow dart and equivalentlength on matching seam line.

Pull underarm seamlines outamount needed (divide by 2).

Be sure to not add width in sleeveunderarm near notches.

This will add length to sleeve capseamline.

Sometimes this can beadvantageous, sometimes aproblem.

Try to avoid bulge or curve

on bicep edge unless figurereally demands it.


3/17

Width Adjustments

Bicep

For narrow bicep, pushseam allowances in. Letseam allowance at top ofcap rise (adds cap

height.) This usually fitsthe narrow, probably moreangular arm.

Dont overlap below

underarm notches.(*s)

** *


4/17

Width Adjustments

Lower Arm GirthTo widen the lower arm, pinch the seam

allowance below the elbow darts and ata matching place on the correspondingseam edge on the other side of thesleeve.

Cut the seam allowance up to the lower leg

of the lower elbow dart and down to thewrist and up to the same level on thematching seam allowance and down tothe wrist. Hinge at each end of thesecuts.

Cut several hinges in each seamallowance.

Pull each seam allowance out theamount needed.

Be sure the shape on each edge matchesthe other.

Tape.


5/17

Width Adjustments

Chest Width

Pinch armscye seam allowance abovenotch and cut seam allowance up toshoulder corner and down to notch.

Hinge both ends of this

cut.

Make several clips in

seam allowance.

Pull out or push in needed amount.

Armscye length will

probably change.

Broad chest

Narrow chest


6/17

Width Adjustments

Upper Back Width

This alteration is done exactlylike the chest alteration except

it is for the bodice back.

Broad upper back Narrow upper back

Arrows indicate hinges


7/17

Width Adjustments

ShouldersCut through shoulder seam

allowance near armscye andcut along armscye seamallowance to notch inunderarm.

Hinge shoulder corner and end ofcut.

Pull shoulder corner out needed amount for broad

shoulders.

Push in amount needed for

narrow shoulders.

**Do not let corner drop or rise in

relation to waist.

**This alteration can changearmscye length.

hinge

hinge

hinge hinge

overlap


8/17

Width Adjustments

Shoulders

To keep shoulder corner fromdropping or rising, draw a line

perpendicular to CF or CB

through original shouldercorner.

When replacing seam

allowance make sure newcorner stays on this line.


9/17

Angular Adjustments-

Varying shoulder slopes areextremely common.

Below is a common standard.

Look for U shapedwrinkle or stress in

shoulder seam.


10/17

Angular Adjustments

Square Shoulders

If Square shoulders have less anglethan the pattern.

Cut through the side seam above thehorizontal bust dart and cut on seam

allowance all the way up to theneck/shoulder corner.

Hinge neck/shoulder corner, shoulder/armscyecorner, and underarm corner.

Raise shoulder seam allowance needed

amount at end of shoulderAND raise underarm the SAME AMOUNT.

Dont add chest width.

This will make a longer side seam.

Bodice back must also be altered.


11/17


Sloping ShouldersWhen shoulders slope more than the

pattern, cut through side seamallowance and remove seamallowance all the way up to theneck/shoulder corner

Hinge shoulder/neck corner,

shoulder/armscye corner, andunderarm corner.

Drop shoulder end needed amountAND

Drop underarm the SAME AMOUNT.

Dont decrease chest width.This will shorten the side seam.

Alter the back bodice the sameamount and the same way.

Red lines show original seamlines.


12/17


Forward Rolling Shoulders

Left below unaltered front with

forward roll

Middle below side view unaltered

Lower right shoulder seam moved

forward


13/17


Forward Rolling ShouldersTo accommodate the moved shoulder

joint, cut through the back armscyeseam allowance above the underarmnotches and cut all the way up to theneck/shoulder corner.

Hinge the shoulder end corner, and theneck/shoulder corner.

Raise the shoulder seam end theneeded amount, allowing the backarmscye to lengthen. (see greengap above double notch).

Sometimes this alteration doesrequire more width across upperback as well.

Redraw dart.


14/17

Angular Adjustments-Forward Rolling Shoulders

Locate and measure the doubleended dartlike wrinkle that resultson the chest from the forward rollof the shoulders.

Mark off lines perpendicular to both

ends of the wrinkle, one that runsthrough the shoulder corner, andothers in between.

Measure the tuck width at the tuck

end of each line.


15/17



Cut through the armscye seam allowance and

remove the seam allowance up to theneck/shoulder corner.

Hinge neck/shoulder corner and shoulder/ armscycorner.

Add several slashes along armscye seamallowance.

Push shoulder/armscye corner in on the diagonal,following the guideline an amount equal to thetuck width on the other end of the cornerguideline.

This may make the shoulder seam buckle. If so,cut through neck corner and flatten shoulderseam allowance. Redraw neck seam, blendinginto original midway along neck edge.

Dashed red lines are the old seamlines.


16/17



Push in the armscye seamallowance the same way,

moving it along each guideline

the width of the tuck.This will create a longer,more

curved armscye.

Red lines show original

seamlines.


17/17


Forward Rolling ShouldersCut through back of sleeve cap seam

allowance above double notch and cutaround to single notch.

Hinge seam allowance liberally.

Move seam allowance forward an amount

equal to amount added to bodice backarmscye.

Flatten out extra seamallowance as shown, creatinga more rounded front sleeve

cap seamline.** Notice dot at top of cap hasmoved forward (red arrow =old dot; black arrow = newdot). This maintains the dotposition on the seamallowance.

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