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Knife Anatomy, Knife Parts,Knife Names, Knife Components

You don't make several thousand knives in a career without a lot of thought and details. So I've created a series of pictures and drawings to illustrate knife components, parts and anatomy. This will help with conversations, details, and education about common current knife components, and will lead to easier conversations about custom knives, their construction, shapes, features, and details. I've sprinkled in a few large pictures of some knives I've made with general details and descriptions. Please enjoy my work!Modern knife makers speak their own language, and if you hang around them enough, you'll pick up the terminology, and  soon be able to distinguish an uneven grind radius from a non-parallel spine flat. It seems every knife maker has his own terms for his knives, and if you make knives long enough, you'll have to name those components somehow, just so you know what to call them! Most of these terms are pretty well established, but may not correlate with historical norms. For instance, the quillon (or quillion) of a guard is the horizontal bars that extend perpendicular to the axis of a sword or dagger, but nowadays the quillon also refers to the protuberances that stop your fingers from sliding forward onto the knife blade and cutting edge. I'll detail these points as I go along, and I'll also continually add to this page with sword and dagger definitions and details, terms and descriptions common to tactical or combat knives, and maybe even sheath, stand, and case parts, if you're interested!  I go into much greater description and detail in my upcoming book.

Knife Components, with illustrations and descriptions

Knife Anatomy 1: This picture starts what seems to be obvious. The knife has a handle and a blade. The blade has a point (or tip) and the point often determines the use, structure, and connotation describing the knife blade shape. More on that later. The spine (also sometimes called the back) is the thickest, heaviest length of the blade and supports the entire blade. The wider and thicker the spine, the stronger the blade along its length. The handle of this full tang knife is framed in by the front and rear bolster. The bolsters do exactly that, they bolster the blade's strength in the critical areas: the handle to blade junction, and the rear or butt of the knife where heavy blows or impact require reinforcement. The bolsters also help to protect and mechanically secure the handle.

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Knife Anatomy 2: A few more details here. The thickest part of the knife blade: the spine, is also the blade flat, the part of the blade that is flat ground. It extends up to the thumb rise on this example, where the thumb rests in a traditional grip style, and down to the ricasso, the heavy thick shank of the blade between the grind and the front bolster. The grind or hollow grind in this case is the part of the knife where the blade is thinned along its length to yield a uniform, thin cutting edge. The grind is a very distinctive part of the knife, and fine workmanship is usually noticed here by how deep, matched, and regular the grind is. Some older texts call the grind a bevel but this is somewhat confusing as there may be many actual geometric bevels on a knife. Since modern knives are ground, the area is called a grind. The front quillon (or quillion) stops the hand from sliding forward on the blade, and in this knife pattern, the hand is locked between the front and rear quillons. The rear quillon also aids in removing the knife from the sheath. The handle belly makes many knives more comfortable to hold. The handle scales rest between the bolsters and should be pinned, riveted, screwed, or mounted with mechanical as well as adhesive means.

Knife Anatomy 3: A spear point designation used to refer to a double edge, but nowadays it can refer to the almost uniform geometry of the point. If you were to bisect the profile of the point, you would see a nearly symmetrical profile on both sides of the center line, like a spear of old. In this drawing, you'll notice grind terminology. The grind termination is at the ricasso, plunges into the meaty part of the blades, has a radius that delineates the transition between the grind  termination and and the grind line, and leads off the blade at the spine near the point. The grind termination radius is determined by the wheel size if hollow ground and other factors. The choil is considered the start of the cutting edge. In days of old, the choil was perpendicular to the edge, and is often still described as the lower part of the ricasso, the part that is unsharpened and at the full

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thickness of the blade. In the modern knife, it can be carved, fluted, fileworked, and a separate feature of a fine knife. It's purpose is to have a definite location to start the sharpened edge of the knife.It's interesting to note that for nearly all United States locations, laws state that blade length is not the length of the cutting edge, but the length of the blade from the tip to the front bolster face. In this drawing you can see why this rear quillon is often called a hawk's bill.

Knife Anatomy 4: Here is a remarkably different knife. You'll notice the point is trailing, that is the point trails higher than the spine. It has a swage, which is a separate grind that can be sharpened or left unsharpened (often called a false edge). The purpose of a swage is to reduce the cross sectional area of the point without sacrificing too much thickness at the point. Then, being more pointed, thrusting insertion is improved. This knife also has a blade with a deep belly (the curved arc of the main blade). Serrations are usually placed near the handle, for greater application of leverage. This knife also has a separate chisel edge for hammering through wire, and a canted (angled) line cutter. This knife is designed for both tactical combat and survival.

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Knife Anatomy 5: This full tang knife is double edged, and the top edge has a great length of serrations. Though this is uncommon, the design is such that the knife can be drawn through rope or textiles by cutting upward. Not a feature for the casual user, as cutting toward oneself can be dangerous. This is clearly a knife for the professional. Note the shape of the front bolster face. It is curved inward, concave, so that strength and coverage of the bolster to tang junction is increased. Note also the lanyard (or thong) hole is milled through the rear bolster and knife tang for great strength. A short lanyard (length of cord) is often used to assist locating the knife in the dark, or underwater, and to aid in pulling the knife from the sheath. It can also be used as a security measure wrapping around the wrist, or be tied to the belt. 

Knife Anatomy 6: Here's a full tang knife with a drop (or dropped) point. The point "drops" lower than the spine. It's a strong point whose curvature allows very easy insertion in the sheath. Trailing point knives have to be eased or carefully curved into the sheath to prevent the point from cutting the sheath welts, but drop points can be self-guiding and the knife just shoved in, without looking. You can see that the choil is more pronounced, and that a greater measure of security for the forefinger than a quillon is the full finger ring. Preferences vary and opinions differ about the finger ring. Disadvantages: it can trap the hand, it takes longer to thread the finger through, it adds to the width of the stock and weight of the blade. Advantages: unsurpassed security between the knife and hand. Note the sculpted bolster face, an advanced feature on a custom knife.

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Knife Anatomy 7: Another trailing point with a swage. Previously, I detailed how a trailing point is harder to sheath in a knife, from this drawing, you can see that the aggressive point would rip right into the welts of a sheath if not carefully sheathed. The advantage to a trailing point is the very fine, sharp point, the finest point of any blade style. It's,  unfortunately, weaker, as the cross-sectional geometry is very thin. This knife has a tanto style blade, very popular in recent years. One of the reasons is that where the "Tanto Blade" arrow points in this drawing is a secondary point, and the hand can bear down on that point by applying pressure on the spine back and apply tremendous pressure in cutting. Note the forefinger groove that is backed with a canted, deep back. This is to apply pulling pressure when the serrations are ripped through material. I call them "rip teeth" because that is ultimately what they do. This knife also has a rear hook, or persuader. These protrusions of the rear bolster or butt of the knife are used in tactical knives to "persuade" an enemy or opponent along after capture, and as it is not sharpened, will not usually cause and open wound. It can also be used as a glass breaker, a point to hammer through tempered safety glass in an emergency. Other names used for this device are skull crusher (self-explanatory) and cat-scratcher. The reason for that name is that if the knife is handled frequently, and during tactical practice, the knife user's arms will often be marked with scratches from this protrusion resembling scratches from a cat.

Knife Anatomy 8: This is a dagger, a double-edged knife that has symmetrical or double hollow grinds. The center axis of the blade has a milled fuller or cannelure. The fuller or cannelure allows a reduced central weight in the thickest area of the spine, without sacrificing strength. In essence, it forms an "I" beam running down the center of the blade, and limits lateral flexion. You will see this feature more on longer, larger blades, like sword blades. It is not a "blood groove." The term blood groove is an American colloquialism and means nothing. We've all heard that the groove is made to allow blood to flow in a deep cut, but this is simply an uneducated attempt at describing the fuller. The fuller is named for the special hammer and anvil tool set (a fuller) used by a blacksmith to produce the groove that spreads hot iron. The word cannelure is probably the best descriptive word for this feature, as it simply means "to groove." In my book I go into greater detail about this mysterious and misunderstood groove in a blade.

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Knife Anatomy 9: You've seen my "Flammarion" pattern before. Nice knife! Here I have highlighted some more components. The spine is the thickest, heaviest, strongest part of the knife, and in modern hollow ground knives is usually left at full thickness. This knife has an upswept or trailing point, that is, the point trails higher than the spine of the blade. Notice the belly on the blade. It is the most convex part of the blade geometry, and in a hollow ground knife, can be devastatingly sharp. Due to the geometry, in tactical combat knives, creates a great slashing geometry rather than a cleaving geometry of straight blades. It's very hard to create a good, deep belly on a blade no matter how it is ground. Enough thickness should be left in the blade stock for strength, but enough thinness at the cutting edge for the geometry to be effective. Notice also the highlighted heel drop. This is at the rear of the handle, and allows the heel of the palm more comfort. Humans have heavy, thick tissues at the base of their palms, and the heel drop on a well-designed handle can accommodate this human anatomy. Note also the finger grooves in the handle.

Knife Anatomy 10: Hidden tang knives are constructed with a full blade and a handle that is supported between the threaded tang end and the shoulder. The tangs may be straight, which makes construction of the handle easier, or curved (as shown) which can create a more natural handle shape. The tang may be a solid piece of the same steel as the blade, or a treaded tang or rod may be hard-soldered or welded onto the knife tang. The reason for a hidden tang is a fuller, more rounded handle shape, conservation of expensive blade material, or design. Obviously, it is not as strong a blade as a full tang knife. The weak areas are at the shoulder and at the threaded tang end.

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Knife Anatomy 11: Here's the same knife tang as shown in Knife Anatomy 10 above, with the guard, handle material, and pommel shown transparent. The guard is usually milled and can be soldered onto the blade at the tang shoulder, creating a tight, sealed fit between the guard and the blade. The handle material has a drilled and milled hole down the center, where the tang sits. The handle may be multiple pieces of materials, including spacers (see "stacked tang" definition below). The strength of the handle is complete when the pommel, which is drilled and tapped, is threaded onto the tang end, tightening the entire handle. This entire handle, guard, and pommel assembly may be filled with epoxy or bedding compound to solidify and seal the handle.

Knife Anatomy 12: Here's the hidden tang knife, completed. You can see how the handle does not show any tang metal, for a natural appearance, and the shape of the handle does not depend on the shape, angle, size, or position of the tang, so a full sculpting of the handle shape can occur. Note how the quillons and handle belly make this an attractive and comfortable handle. This is one of  my most popular knife patterns, the "Aungst."

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Knife Blade shape photographs and descriptions

There are thousands of blade shapes, but most fall into several simple categories. Most modern names start with the description of the point. I'll add more details and descriptions, so please check back!

The Trailing point: The sharpest point for fine work (such as skinning and caping game), but the hardest to sheath, and weakest structural point. Note the tall thumb rise, and rear hawk's bill quillon with large lanyard hole through tang and bolster.

The Tanto point: Very popular with combat rescue personnel, as the angle of the tip is greater, and therefore has more cross sectional area and more metal to support the point. One of the strongest points. This one has a top swage, to create a more easy penetration without sacrificing too much strength. Note the serrations toward the hilt and the thumb rise.Here's a good example of a Clipped point with a swage. The point has been "clipped" off (common in Bowie style blades) and is ground with a swage for a false or real edge. A very aggressive point.

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Here's a Spear point. A spear point designation used to refer to a double edge, but nowadays it refers more to the almost uniform geometry of the point. If you were to bisect the profile of the point, you would see a nearly symmetrical profile on both sides of the center line, like a spear of old. In this knife, the top of the spear is hollow ground with a small contact wheel, creating a true double edge for half the length of the blade. A very effective and devastating grind for a combat or tactical knife blade.

This knife has a very slight Trailing point. A trailing point "trails" higher than the blade spine. It's a more tactical point with greater strength than a point with a swage. Note the sculpted and fileworked choil.

Here's another Swage, this one hollow ground on a Spear point knife blade.

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This could be considered a double edged knife. This is a very strong, stout thrusting point for maximum penetration. Note the very wide and thick spine, and the strong choil and forefinger quillon. The rear finger ring is for the forefinger, as this knife is pulled out of the sheath and held in the tactical grip.

Here's a Trailing point knife with a frontal Gut Hook. The gut hook is used on skinning knives to hook under the animal's skin, and pull, cutting it open for gutting. It can also be used as a line cutter, as it hooks into the line and traps it while it cuts.

Here is a traditional Drop point (or Dropped point). The point is strong, convenient, and sheaths easily. One of the most popular point styles, this makes a great utility knife. Note the lack of bolsters on this particular knife, and handle scales of stabilized wood, which makes this a very light weight knife to carry. The lanyard hole is lined with stainless steel or nickel silver, which strengthens it and prevents wear on the wood scales.

Here's a Clipped point (or Slant point) on a mariner's and sailor's knife. The point angle is increased making the point stronger than a drop point, straight point, or trailing point. Note the serrations near the ricasso of the knife blade, and the marlinspike/shackle breaker for sailor's use.

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The views, sides, and names of locations on a knifeOne would think that detailing the position and view of a knife would be a simple thing, but a number of terms have developed in the English language for areas, locations and views of a knife. Here is a photo set detailing those names and descriptions. The knife I chose for these descriptions is my "Allegre" pattern, a tough working tanto style blade, mirror polished high chromium stainless tool steel, sculpted stainless steel bolsters, and Polvadera Jasper gemstone handle.

Obverse SideKnife Anatomy, sides: This is a view of the Obverse Side. There have been many names developed for this side of the knife, and in my book, I detail where those terms came from. It is an interesting history, with ties to other metalworking trades and industry. This is the most commonly viewed (or observed) side of the knife nowadays, because it is the side that bears the maker's mark. So, it's also called the Mark Side. When the knife is held in the hand, with the blade pointed away and the edge down (always a good safety practice) this becomes the Left Side. Since it is mostly photographed, it's also the Display Side, and often the Decorative Side. It's also called the Front Side and Die Side. These terms may not be all this side is called, but they are the most common in our industry. This favored positioning is derived, I believe, from the majority of people being right handed, and I go into much more detail in my upcoming book.

Reverse SideKnife Anatomy, sides: This is a view of the Reverse Side. Just like the Obverse side, there have been many names developed for this side of the knife. This is not the most commonly viewed side of the knife nowadays, because it usually bears no marks or identifiers.  It's also called the Pile Side. I won't tell you here why that is, that is a neat curiosity that I detail in my book. When the knife is held in the hand, with the blade pointed away and the edge down (always a good safety practice) this becomes the Right Side. Since it is the least photographed,   it's also called the Back Side, and also the Undecorated Side.

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Spine ProfileKnife Anatomy, sides: This is a view of the Knife Spine, so named since the strength of the blade is derived from it. It's also frequently called the back, but this is an antiquated term that is best avoided, so as not to confuse it with the Back Side of the knife blade (above). In modern knives, this is a very important view to illustrate, as it shows the relative thickness, cross-sectional geometry of the knife blade, the bolster or guard profile, the handle thickness, and the tang geometry. In this photo, it is a full tang knife (a solid piece of steel from tip to tip) and the tang is tapered for weight balance and high quality construction. Note the dovetailed bolsters, for a rigid fit between bolsters and handle material. This view is also important to identify the edgework and filework, which has developed into one of the key indicators of fine quality knives made in modern times.

Sheathed View (lipsă foto)Knife Anatomy, sides: It's important in modern knives that have accessories (sheaths, stands, and cases) to include a view of those components too, and how they relate to the knife. For a sheathed knife, this view details the relationship in size between the knife and sheath, the position and extension of the protruding handle, and the handle components that will help a knife user extract (or pull) the knife from the sheath. Here you can clearly see that the rear quillon (or hawk's bill) aids in extraction. You can get an idea of how many fingers can be wrapped around the handle for the pull. This knife also has a lanyard hole through the bolster and tang, so by adding a short, stout lanyard, even greater ease of extraction and security can be gained. 

Knife and Component DefinitionsDefinitions of knife parts and components have varied through time, and you may see some commonly copied lists of knife definitions that have been borrowed, cut, and pasted on many internet sites. My list is not one that will be easily adapted for everyone's use, but I'll do my best to define some standard knife terms from the viewpoint of a current professional knife maker, and stay away from vague generalities you'll see all over the rest of the Internet.

axisThis term is reserved for daggers and swords that have congruent sides, that is, are symmetrical. It is the center line that extends from the tip at the point to the center of the pommel. Good daggers are particularly hard to make, as the axis can reveal any variation or irregularity in blade grind and handle geometry. backThis term  is best avoided altogether. It used to mean the spine of the knife, but as you can see in the above text, it can also refer to the reverse side of the knife. In the past, the term back could refer to the flat edge of the knife that is not the edge, but because it is such a vague term, it's best not used, unless you're referring to the knife sheath, which almost always has a pronounced front side and back side. bedding, handleIn most well-made firearms, the action is "bedded" to the stock. This eliminates torque, stresses, and binding

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of attachment fittings and hardware that may effect the accuracy of the action. In knives, bedding the handle material to the knife tang reduces stress and mechanical strains on the handle material, assuring a longer lasting handle to tang junction, and greater longevity of the handle, and thus the knife. Many handle materials benefit from bedding, rather than simple mechanical attachment, but you won't see this topic discussed much by other makers or by factories. I have my own processes for bedding handle materials. Learn more on my Handles, Bolsters, and Guards page here. belly, bladeThis is the deeply convex-curved part of the knife blade, often seen on skinning knives, where a large sweeping arc is necessary to separate the skin, fat, and fascia from the body without presenting a sharp point that could pierce through into the internal organs, possibly contaminating the meat or ruining a hide. A large sweeping belly on the knife blade may be seen on any type of knife, including survival and even combat knives. In a tactical combat knife, the arc is advantageous in the same way that the sweep of a cavalry sword changes the angle of attack, leading to a slashing cut rather than a chopping or cleaving cut. I talk more about this geometry in my upcoming book. In other definitions here on the Internet, I've seen it stated that the blade belly contains serrations, but I've never seen a knife made this way and it is a poor idea, unless you are creating a saw. Even then, it's a ridiculous notion, because the human hand and arm utilize a back and forth linear sawing motion while using serrations, so having the serrations in a convex curve is not ergonomically viable. Typical internet hyperbole and misinformation. I've also seen it stated that the more curved the belly of the blade, the less sharp the point can be.... what? The point and the belly are different parts of the blade, if you want a more curved belly, and also a sharp point, the knife becomes a trailing point, with absolutely the sharpest point of any knife! It really depends on how the knife blade is profiled and shaped.   belly, handleThe belly of the handle is the part that swells outward from the centerline of the handle, and creates a stronger profile that allows the forefinger and the smaller fingers to have a deeper placement on the handle, improving grip strength. This is due to the human hand physiology. When you make a comfortable fist, the musculature tends to push the middle fingers of the hand outward away from the palm, so this shape in the knife or tool handle is often more comfortable than a straight handle. But it is more expensive to machine and create on a knife, so you don't often see handle belly well-executed on factory or mass-produced knives.  bevelThis is another general term that is best avoided. This term is often used by factories to describe their grind, such as "flat bevel" or "hollow ground bevel," or "taper bevel." The truth is, anything can be beveled on a knife, from the grind, to the tang, to the handle, to the sheath thickness. In modern times, there are much more descriptive and accurate terms. Quite simply, a bevel is defined as the slant of a surface or line. It is also defined as the tool used to mark, measure of indicate a bevel. So, a bevel can help create a bevel- You can see how confusing, vague, and non-specific this term is. Try not to use it, unless you're talking about that specific angle, such as "the bevel of a bolster dovetail."  bolsterA bolster in a knife is designed to do just that: it bolsters (strengthens) a critical area of a knife. In the modern knife, bolsters usually strengthen the blade-handle junction, and often the butt of the handle. Both of these areas can endure great stress, abrasion, or impact, and well-designed bolsters can help by supporting the blade tang and handle material. Though there are several ways to attach bolsters, I usually pin mine with zero-clearance pins of the same material as the bolster, heavily peened and spread through the knife tang. They can not, and will not loosen, move, or fall off, ever. When you mount them like I do, they can only be removed by grinding them away! You can read more about bolsters, their purposes, materials, and mounting arrangements on a special page here.  buttA general description of the rear of the handle of any knife, sword, or dagger. You might read here on the

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internet that it refers to Bowie knives only, or that it's also the pommel, and both of these definitions are  incorrect. Every knife handle has a butt, but the term is just the general location. On the butt, you might have a rear bolster, a skull crusher, a pommel, or a lanyard ring. A pommel is NOT the butt; it is simply located at the butt of the handle.  butt capOn hollow hidden tang knives, this refers to the component that caps (covers, tops, or terminates) the opening. It is not a pommel. It may also be applied and mounted to the butt of a knife handle for strength, for a surface to apply pressure or impact, for a surface to engrave or embellish, or to prevent wear and splitting of the handle material such as wood, horn, or bone. capHere's another word that is probably best avoided, because it is vague and non-specific. You can wear a cap, cap a tooth, and on a knife, cap a screw head, cap a butt, or cap a sheath. Some guys use it to describe a butt cap (above). And then there's the whole "bust a cap in your *ss" thing. chape, chape mouthpiece, chape tipThe word chape is a congener of "cap" and "cape" named for a churchman's cover. In the old days, many authors have referred to the chape in different ways. Shakespeare and Fairholt , for instance, considered the chape the guardplate or crossbars at the junction of the handle and hilt, however their use of this term referring to specifics is what I consider vague. Predominantly and currently, it is defined as the metal trimmings of a scabbard, specifically the metal mounting of a scabbard or sheath at its upper (mouthpiece) end which bears the ring or hook for attaching it to the belt. Curiously, in early use the term also means the metal component covering the point  of the scabbard (crampet, bouterolle, or ferrule). So when referring to the chape, you probably need to specify the mouthpiece (top) or the tip end (bottom).  choilA very interesting word indeed. The definitive origin is unknown, but there is an interesting similarity of the word to the Nepalese word "cho," that I talk about that on my Khukri page here. There is a lot of misinformation about the choil, but it is simply defined as the area between the cutting edge and the tang. It may be an area that is angled, cut out, milled, or shaped in a decorative or functional way to create a specific point at which sharpening of the edge starts. The cut of a choil may create a finger shaped indentation, but it is NOT an additional finger groove. Anyone putting their finger there would be certain of experiencing a vicious cut if the finger slid foreword only slightly. So this is another one of those wives' tales, started by someone who is not familiar with daily tactical, or practical working knife use and carry. You'll see it posted on internet sites that you put your finger there to "choke up" on the knife grip. If you have to move your finger onto the blade to get a good grip, you've got the wrong knife in your hand for the task. Today, most well made knives have some type of choil cut, so that sharpening on a stone will not create a rough or ragged indentation at the grind termination. Of course, as a knife blade is used up, the choil geometry eventually disappears with repeated sharpenings as the blade shape changes. Read more about that on my "Blades" page here.  CQC, CQB KnivesAcronyms for Close Quarters Combat and Close Quarters Battle. These terms are reserved for serious combat knives, usually made for and used by the military for killing or disabling the enemy. Though many manufacturers claim their knives are "tactical" or "combat duty," you might question why a serviceman in combat would carry a cheap piece of manufactured junk into battle... see my Military Combat Knives page here. These knives are designed to slash, pierce, and cut, with overbuilt blades, heavy duty fittings, and extremely stout sheaths and materials.  crampet, crampetteThis is another term for a chape (see above). In this case, it means to restrain or constrict, by metal, referring, I believe, to the function of the metal chape parts to constrain the wood or leather of the sheath or

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scabbard and protect it from splitting or damage.  crossguardPlease see guard below. CSAR KnivesAcronym for Combat Search And Rescue knives. These knives are designed with not only combat applications built in (See CQC, CQB above), but also with rescue features, like thicker, heavier points for scraping, digging, and carving. They also may have heavier, thicker grinds for light chopping and shelter building, and serrations or rip teeth for sawing. Like the CQC knives above, they very tough, stout, and designed for rough duty and lifesaving work. See some of the best CSAR knives made for USAF Pararescue, our nation's top military rescue service here.  

cutting edgeIt is best to use the words cutting and edge together. If you use the word "edge" alone, it could refer to the edge of the bolster, the edge of the handle scales, or the edge of the filework on the spine. It might refer to the "edge" a maker has over his contemporaries. The cutting edge is the working part of the knife, the very thing that makes it a knife. There are many ways to create the cutting edge, but the cross sectional geometry is the most important aspect, and I go into great detail on my "Blades Page" here.  detent, detent ballThat which catches or locks a movement. In some folding knives, a small hole (detent) is placed in the blade to help a small detent ball (usually hardened and wear-resistant) find it's resting place. As the blade is closed, the spring-supported ball falls into the detent, pulling and holding the blade closed. Though this is a widespread application, there are others in use for knives, mechanisms, sheaths, and knife apparatus. Hey, now I know where detention came from! divotThis is not a knife term! Some guys confuse this with the word "detent" (above). A divot is a small chunk of turf used to cover a cottage roof in Scotland, or burned in the fireplace to keep warm. For you golfers, it's what you carve out of the grounds. I guess in that way it's similar to the detent hole... but maybe the guys using this term have spent way too much time on the links. dovetail (bolster and handle)Refers to the angled cut of the bolster that is mounted against the handle scale in full tang knives. I believe that nearly all bolsters should be dovetailed, as this forms a stable, geometric lock of the handle material against the tang. The handle material must be accurately matched to the bolster dovetails, for a seamless fit. Sometimes, with some geometric arrangements of fittings and handles, the ninety-degree squared-off angle of fittings to handles can not be avoided.  EDCAcronym for Every Day Carry, a knife that is carried and used daily. I like to call this a working knife. Usually a less expensive model, as the client and knife user knows it will be used up, perhaps abused, misused, scratched, scarred, and eventually discarded. You might be surprised to find out the value, workmanship, and materials now used on working (EDC) knives. Knife users are more refined these days, and prefer a fine tool and instrument at their side. See my working knives on this page.   escutcheonThis is from the Latin word for shield. It may be lozenge, diamond, or shield shaped, where bearings are depicted, marshaled, or displayed. In modern knives, it's a small plate, usually of metal, embedded and/or mounted to the handle, where engraving, etching, or marks of the owner, maker, event, or campaign may be detailed. Due to the size of knife handles, this is usually a very small plate, suited to very limited graphics or

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text. An escutcheon may also be mounted on a sheath, but on my knives I call it a Flash Plate, as it is ordinarily used to flash military affiliations or connections.  false edgeRefers to a grind geometry usually on the spine of the knife near the tip. Not really a good descriptive term; I prefer to use the term "swage" (see below). The reason is that in most well-made modern custom knives, an edge is actually formed at the swage, one that will cut, even though the geometry is thick. The reason for the swage is most often to reduce the point thickness and cross-sectional geometry without removing too much material that would weaken the spine. This is usually done in tactical and combat knives to reduce the combination of point angles for greater penetration force on a smaller surface area at the point. So, "false edge" becomes somewhat of a misnomer, since there actually is a cutting edge, chisel shaped and often sharp. By the way, the first idea every boy has when he receives his first knife with a false edge or swage is to sharpen it! See plenty of swages  through my Tactical, Military, and Combat Knife Portal here. fantasy knifeThough this term has fallen out of popular use since the 1990s, I think it's a good term. Usually refers to a knife that is a total artistic concept, and is not a useful tool due to geometry, materials, shape, or ability to be carried. Fantasy knives are purchased for investment value and collection only; you wouldn't use one to skin an elk or carry into combat. ferruleA small cap or ring, usually of metal, that covers the termination of a knife handle or component that protects the edges, strengthens the arrangement, and prevents splitting. The word comes from Latin (ferrum) which means iron, and viriola which means little bracelet. Ferrules are seen typically on hidden tang knives, where large turned or rounded handles are protected on both ends. They can be simple or quite elaborate, featuring hand-engraving, precious metal inlay, or gemstone mounts. I use them also to help bed the handle materials and to help distribute the forces of a tightly threaded pommel mount on a hidden tang knife. fighting knife (fighter)This is a negative term that is best avoided altogether. This term was popular in the 1980s, but has fallen out of favor with most knife aficionados and professionals because of the negative connotations. Knives are not made for fighting, and prosecutors love this type of term when knives make their way to court systems. Though there are tactical knives and combat knives that are made for military duty, it's foolish and irresponsible to label a knife for "fighting." When was the last time you saw a professional knife bout in Madison Square Garden? Factories use terms like this to appeal to the macho wannabes in order to sell knives, but it does a great disservice to our profession. I talk about this in detail in my book.  fileworkThis is a new term, and you won't find it in any standard dictionary. It refers to the file cuts on the spine of a knife, frequently extending completely around the tang of a full tang knife. Its purpose was probably first to improve grip security and stop a thumb or finger from slipping on a slick, smooth blade spine, but it has evolved into a decorative art form. Good filework can not be imitated by machines (see jimping below), and is a definite indicator of a fine custom or handmade knife. Read more about filework on my Embellishment page here.  finger grooveDepressions created into the knife handle to accommodate fingers. They may be deep, shallow, or canted, and may comprise handle materials, bolsters, or guards as part of their geometry. Finger grooves should be well rounded for comfort, with no roughness that would cause abrasion or fatigue from use. Multiple finger grooves can be tricky to put on a knife, because of the great variation of hand sizes in humans. See my "Knife Grip Tactics" page here for hand  sizing information. fixed-blade knife

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Refers to knives that are solid between the handle and blade, in other words: not folding knives. Fixed-blade knives are the strongest type of knife at the blade-handle union.  fossilizedA descriptive term that is often used incorrectly by modern knife makers, collectors, and the public. You'll see mastodon or mammoth ivory called "fossilized" when it is not a true fossil, but merely mineralized ivory. Real fossils are stone, rock, groups of minerals. Real fossils can not be cut with a bandsaw, sanded on a belt grinder, or finished with dry sandpaper and a buffer. What makers are calling fossilized is actually mineralized tusk, horns, and bone. When you see the word fossil on this web site, I'm referring to actual fossils, living forms that have been replaced by stone millions of years ago. See "mineralized" below. frogThe loop, as attached to the belt, to accept the scabbard of a sword or dagger. For visualization, you could call the metal ring mounted to your workbelt that you slip your battery powered drill/driver into a frog... same thing. Hey, it's also the acronym for "Finished Room Over Garage."  full tangWhen the tang of a knife is full, you can see the edge of the entire tang all along the handle. You can see a full tang knife in the photo above of the Spine Profile. Typically, a full tang has bolsters and handle scales, rather than a guard and pommel like a hidden tang (below). A full tang is a solid piece of steel from tip to butt, and is the strongest blade/handle arrangement. Handmade and fine custom knives have a fully tapered tang (below). grind (blade)This is what makes a flat bar of tool steel a knife. The grind is the most important part of the knife blade, and the hardest thing to execute well, accurately, continuously, and properly finish. All modern knives are ground in some form or fashion, even the forged knives have to be ground to be finished. The grind is simply a way of thinning out the blade to accommodate the cutting edge throughout the life of the knife. The grind may be hollow, flat, tapered, or convex. I go into it in depth on my "Blades" page here.  grinder marksNot a good thing. These are the scars left on the blade by the grinder abrasives that have not been finished away by successive sanding and finishing. They are the bane of knifemakers, as many hours are required to eliminate them yet preserve the crispness and character of the knife. Probably another reason knives are hand-sanded (hand-rubbed) along their length and left rough, so the grinder marks can not be seen. Sometimes, on less expensive models, I'll leave the grinder marks as part of the finish, and I call it satin finished. The knife is ground to about 320 grit, and left unfinished, for a plain, useful blade finish that the owner is not afraid to scratch. grind lineThe line that is seen extending from the ricasso to the spine towards the tip. It is formed by the hollow or flat grind junction with the flat of the knife. The grind line is a very important feature and indicator of a knife's geometry, form, finish, and appeal. It should be crisp, clean, and not washed over with too much buffing. The grind lines should be symmetrical on both sides of the knife, and can be examined for symmetry by looking right down the point with both eyes, each trained to one side of the blade. Many makers and all factories have trouble with grind lines, particularly if the blade is well-finished. I go into this in more detail in my book, but it is one of the reasons most makers do not finish a blade, merely settling for sanding it along its length.  grind terminationSee "plunge" below. This is the termination of the grind at the ricasso. A tough area to properly grind and finish a knife, and makers and manufacturers have a lot of problems here. This is an extremely important part of a knife! A knife is physically stronger if the grind termination is gentle, rounded, and sweeping rather

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than abrupt, sharp, and with a definite corner. If left abrupt, the knife will fracture at this point when the blade is in a lateral bind with the handle. Consider that the grind is on both sides, so if it is abrupt, it doubles the amount of steel removed, and can create considerable thinness at that point. Not good. That very spot is where the blade will break away from the handle under severe stress. Some guys call this a "shoulder cut" but it's best not to use that term. A shoulder is the clearly defined flat where the milled guard rests in a hidden tang knife, dagger, or sword. See "shoulder" below. grips (grip)The definition for grip is handle, so this term is best avoided in modern custom handmade knives, though factories often use it, because it sounds masculine and active. When I think of grips, I'm carried back to my childhood, and think of the plastic grips that were slid over the handlebars of my Huffy bicycle. It's kind of a low-rent term for handle scales, handle material, and a knife handle, and is vague and non-specific. I suppose you could call the rubbery soft Kraton or Neoprene foam handles molded to the knife "grips." I think this is a particularly bad way to handle a knife. If the material is soft and flexible, it has a very limited life on a knife handle, and is just not a durable material. If you really have to worry about hand fatigue, you're using the knife for the wrong thing, you're using your knife too much, or you're weak. Perhaps some decent gloves will help, and don't use the knife on vibrating machinery... guardA guard is used to do just that, guard against injury, by protecting the hands from opponents. So, the origins of a guard were in sword fighting where parrying daggers and the strikes from opponents could injure the swordsman's hands, disarming him. Here on the Internet, you'll see it mentioned that the purpose of a guard is to protect the hands from the cutting edge. Though this may be a result of a guard, it is the quillon that does so, by keeping the hand from moving foreword on the blade. The term guard in current times usually refers to the entire fitting including large, long or independent protuberances of metal that extend well beyond the hand between the blade and handle. Seems simple enough, but actual guards are usually described on swords, daggers, or hidden tang knives, and the term is rarely used on full tang knives where quillons, often built into the tang and bolster, do the job of hand security. Simply put, a guard is used to guard against an opponent with another edged weapon, not to guard your hand from your own cutting edge.  gussetI've heard some guys use this term to describe the welts in a knife sheath, but that's not right. A gusset is the piece of material in garb used to join and connect two angular pieces, it's also the angled span that connects two ninety degree components, like the support of a shelf. The word is derived from the French word gousset, meaning "armpit" referring to the material that forms that joint in armor or a shirt. That alone is reason enough not to use it! gut hookA hook that is formed in the knife blade for gutting game. It is used to hook around the skin of the animal, and pulled along, the skin falls into the sharpened recess of the hook and is severed. It is designed so that the person field dressing the game animal does not have to use the belly of the knife blade to create the main incision, because on most animals, the hair and hide are very tough, often filled with dirt, blood, and debris, which can dull a knife blade quickly. Since the gut hook cuts from the side and inside of the skin, the hunter can preserve his main cutting edge sharpness on this important step in field dressing. Hopefully, if the gut hook is designed well, he will not lacerate the internal organs of the animal which would spoil the meat with contaminating fluids from the organs. For a similar knife blade feature, see line cutter below. handleThe handle of the modern handmade custom knife is not just a thing to grab when you need to cut something, it is the union with the human hand and a great canvas for works of knife art. The handle comprises many components including the bolsters, scales, fittings, sculpting, spacers, pins, tang filework, and many others. Read more about handles generally here, and specific handle materials here: Woods, Horn, Bone, and Ivory, Manmade Handle Materials, Gemstone Knife Handles. I've included hundreds and hundreds of pictures on these pages and plenty of information.

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 hand-rubbed (blade)I don't like them. Lots of makers do them. You grind a knife blade to 220 grit, then clamp the blade horizontally, wrap a piece of sandpaper around a block of wood or leather and start hand sanding. I've seen this finish done up to 1200 grit, but it still looks unfinished to me. I think that many makers have problems with good finishing, so they rub. I know I'll get more angry email on this one, but it's nothing I haven't heard before. Some people actually ask for this finish, and I've done it, too, but I don't like it. I talk about it on my Blades page here.  heftIn the old days, this term actually meant the hilt (a dialectic variation of haft), but that use is obsolete in America. Because the word also descends from heave, currently it is a subjective term to describe the combination of weight and balance of a knife. A weak, thin knife will feel light in heft, a solid, substantial knife will feel "hefty." Since every person is different, this feeling is entirely subjective, but I like to make most of my knives solid, firm, and having good balance and heft. A thin, light, and flimsy knife may not be up to the task, unless it's a fillet, boning, paring, or chef's knife, where you want less heft and more flexibility.  hidden tangThe hidden tang is described in detail above, at Knife Anatomy pictures 10-12. This type of tang is hidden completely beneath handle material usually held between the guard and the pommel. Though not as strong as the full tang knife, it can be made quite serviceable. See also "stacked tang" and "stick tang" below.

hiltFrom the Anglo-Saxon word hilt, or hilte, Old High German helza, or Old Norwegian, hjalt. It simply means the handle of a sword or dagger. A single-edged modern knife does not have a hilt; it has a handle. The term is best relegated to swords and daggers only, not general knives. There are many components to the hilt, including the quillons, grip, pommel, knuckle bows, pas de' ane, and crossguard of a sword, and various other components.  integralThis term usually refers to a knife that has been milled down from a very thick piece of stock. Usually applied to full tang knife design, this means that the thickest part of the metallic parts of a knife, usually the bolsters, are actually the same solid piece of steel as the blade and tang. The reason for this is to create a very strong blade-bolster-tang junction. One has to question the high extra added expense of doing this, though some clients request it. I believe that the weakest part of the knife is the tip, so extra strength at the bolster area is usually not necessary. Rarely, if ever, does a bolster snap off or become unattached or loose from any well-made knife, in example: in the thousands of knives I've made, I've never had one single problem with any bolster, ever. One might question whether all this thick stock milling is actually necessary, or if it may be a gimmick or perhaps a way of turning over knife construction to a CNC milling machine. More about this in my book. isometricMeans: of or exhibiting equality in dimensions or measurements. This term is usually applied to daggers, which are ordinarily balanced on both cutting edges and of equal dimensions and handle shape, no matter the orientation and view. In simpler terms, the profile (shape of the blade and handle) is the same whether viewed from the obverse side or the reverse side. The only way to tell which side is which is the maker's mark, which is always placed on the obverse side. A blade may be isometric but the handle not, and also the handle may be isometric but the blade not. jimpingThe old word, "jimp" that came from North England and Scotland, means neat, handsome, and slender in

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form. The knife industry designated regular machined cuts or cross-hatched patterns on the back of the spine of the knife to improve traction of the fingertips "jimping." They still call those regular spaced machine-made cuts jimping, but the in the custom and handmade knife world has evolved into artistic filework. Jimping may be machine cut by automated slitters, mills, or blades, but filework must be hand-cut. In my world, calling filework jimping is an insult. Read more about filework on my Embellishment page here.

lanyard, lanyard holeA lanyard is a thong or strap used as an extra measure of security. The lanyard is often mounted through a hole, milled, drilled, forged or carved, usually through the butt of the handle, at the rear bolster, tang, and sometimes pommel. The lanyard may be wrapped around a wrist, around the neck (probably a bad practice), or tied to the body so the knife is secure. I have lots of clients who insist on lanyards onboard ship. A short lanyard may assist in extracting or pulling the knife from the sheath, particularly if the sheath is deep and protective. The use of a lanyard must be carefully considered, because the strap or thong may hang up on machinery, gear, and brush, adding difficulty and frustration (or danger) to carrying the knife in the field. Most of my lanyards extend through the tang, for great strength and security. In wood, horn, bone, and ivory handles, if there is no rear bolster in a full tang knife, the lanyard hole is usually lined with a metal tube, to protect the handle material from splitting, stress, and wear. I use the term "thong tube" and "thong" less frequently these days, as there might be confusion with modern female undergarments... and that is no place for a knife! lead-off (grind)The grind lead-off is the geometry of the grind as it leads off the spine toward the tip of the blade. This is another tough spot to properly create and finish on the modern custom knife. The balance should be controlled for the intended purpose of the knife, the strength of the blade tip or point, and the fullness of the spine. A tactical knife would have a much more shallow lead-off than a working knife, which will be thicker than a chef's knife, that often has the widest lead-off, and thinnest blade at the point of any knife blade design. Like the plunge (below), it is a tenuous area for custom knives, as the lead-off should be matched at both sides, and this can be seen by casting a view down the point with both eyes.  line cutterSimilar to the gut hook above in appearance, but usually smaller, and often placed near the choil or ricasso, the line cutter is a specially shaped cutter designed to capture line and sever it. Particularly useful in marine or wet environments where a floating or wet line may simply float away from the knife blade, and it would take both hands to produce a cut of the line (one holding the line, one holding the knife). With a line cutter, in one motion, the line is snagged and severed. Particularly useful for small line and rope, monofilament, netting, and small rigging lines.  linerOn a folding knife, this is the flat plate that supports the handle sides, spine, and blade pivot. Most liner lock knives have liners made of 6AL4V titanium because of its light weight, high toughness, springy nature, and good wear characteristics. Other liners for different types of knives can be made of any steel, but high carbon stainless steels are frequently used. A liner is not spacer material! I've seen spacers called liners, they are not. See spacer material below. lock tang (sheath)On my locking sheaths, the lock tang (made of 304 or 316 austenitic stainless steel) engages the knife at the thumb rise notch (below). This is the main movable component that the thumb disengages to release the knife from the sheath. marlinspikeA frequent accessory on sailor's or mariner's knives. This is a small pointed tool for working into difficult knots to loosen them, and for aiding in braiding, working, modifying or creating features in rope, line and

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cable. I've found them absolutely critical if you have a difficult knot to work loose, and don't want to cut your line. They can also have additional features, like shackle-breakers, custom slots, and scrapers built in. marpatAcronym for MARine  distruptive PATtern camouflage, this is a relatively new camo pattern used on military uniforms, pixilated with a blocky look, it's supposed to blend in better with natural backgrounds. Why do I have this term included here? Because in order to match that pattern, I now can acquire marpat standard (woodland) and marpat desert camo pattern kydex to use in my military and combat grade locking sheaths. Just ask! mid-bolsterOn full tang knives, this is the description that relates to the sub-hilt of hidden tang knives (below). A third bolster pair is attached to the handle (or milled), usually located behind the area of the forefinger. This allows pressure to be applied to sawing cuts, and additional security in grip. By using bolster material here, thin cross-sectional areas of the handle are avoided. For example, if hardwood was used here, the wood that extends down the point of the protrusion would be small, thin, and weak.  mineralizedMineralized tusks, bones, and once living material is the actual material that has been soaked and impregnated with moisture bearing minerals, sometimes over centuries. This darkens and stains the material in interesting patterns and colors, and may stabilize or toughen it somewhat. Often, this is called "fossil mammoth or mastodon tusk," "fossil ivory," or "fossil walrus tusk." This is incorrect. these are not fossils, and the correct descriptive term is mineralized. See "fossil" above. molle gearAcronym for MOdular Lighweight Load carrying Equipment, the carrying method for the U. S. Army and other professional services like law enforcement. Modern knives should be compatible with mounting  arrangements, compatible with PALS webbing.  mosaic pinsA knife pin used to secure handle scales to a full tang knife, made of multiple small pins or wire assembled into tubing usually with black epoxy. Sometimes a tube within a tube is used, of varying sizes and arrangements. Back in the 80's knifemakers could only make these pins themselves, and now they are commonly sold by knife making supply companies. Since they are now fairly common, I try to stay away from them. While they present some visual interest, I believe a knife is much better served cleanly, with smooth execution, solid and striking handle material, and a good form. over-ground (blade)When the grind plunge extends through the spine, and the spine of the blade is significantly thinned at the grind termination, the blade is said to be overground. This substantially weakens the blade at that area, and that is an area highly prone to failure. Many poorly made factory knives, nearly all factory folding knives, and many custom knives are overground, and this is controlled by matching the correctly sized contact wheel with the blade width. Sometimes this is the only way to thinly grind a narrow blade, so it is not always a deal-killer.   palm handleNote: this is not a pommel! It refers to a handle shape that accommodates just the palm of the hand, a short, often rounded handle that does not extend out the heel of the hand, but rests in the palm. This style is useful in many working knives, and on field dressing and skinning knives where the entire hand may be inserted into the animal when field dressing, and a large butt, pommel, or rear bolster would add unnecessary length, weight, and be in the way.  

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pins, bolster See rivets below. These are the pins used to secure the bolsters to the knife tang. I drill my bolsters with zero clearance pins through the tang and both bolster sides, and then they are heavily peened for an extremely tight fit. They can only be removed by grinding the bolster away. At least two pins should be used through each bolster to prevent rotation, and on heavy knives there may be as many as four. Bolster pins should be as large as is practical without compromising tang strength. On small knives, they are usually .0938", on larger knives .125", and on swords .250. The pins should always be made of the same material as the bolster for a nearly invisible union. More about bolsters here.  pins, handleThe handle pins are he mechanical mounts used to secure the handle scales to the full tang knife handle. They are drilled through both handle scales and through the tang, usually with zero clearance for a tight, permanent fit. Some makers use decorative pin assemblies, made of pins arrange and glued in a tube or series of tubes for visual interest. Since this is a fairly common practice, I stay away from it, and opt for clean, light, comfortably arranged pins that are small enough to show off the handle material, and do not compromise tang strength. On tactical combat knives, I use heavier pins. All pins should be the same material as the bolsters for visual continuity. Some finished pin faces can be engraved for a classy touch. More about handles here.  plunge (grind)This term has been adapted to modern knife making to describe the line that terminates the grind at the ricasso. I'm guessing that is because in manufacturing, the blade "plunges" into the grinder at this point. In handmade knives this is probably more properly called the grind termination. But plunge has stuck, so I use both terms. It is a very difficult area for any well make knife, and only the best, most practiced knife makers have clean, sweeping, and accurate plunges. Since this area is easy to see in an flat profile photograph of a knife, the plunge can speak volumes about a maker's skill. I believe plunges should be formed with rounded, sweeping lines both for visual appeal and (more importantly) strength. If a blade-to-handle junction is going to fail, it will fail more easily with a squared-off, sharp angled plunge line than a sweeping, gentle curve. But a curved plunge is hard to construct and grind and be balanced and matched on both sides, so many makers and all manufacturers are lacking here. Read "grind termination" above. pointThis refers to the distal front end of the knife blade, and more specifically the general shape of the blade. A knife may be a spear point, trailing point, or drop point in shape. The point is one of the main factors in determining the use and design of the knife. The point is also the most easily broken area of the knife, as great leverage can be applied on a small amount of metal there. The geometry, thickness, temper, and design of the point should all be carefully controlled by the maker. The most used area of any knife blade is the first two inches, so the point is critical. See also "tip" below.  pommelDirectly translated from Latin (pomum), this means "apple." Translated from French (paumelle) this means the palm of the hand. On a knife or sword, it is an ornamental globular ball that terminates the handle. On modern knives, it is usually the tapped and threaded component that mechanically secures the handle to the threaded tang or rod in a hidden tang knife. Can a pommel have a hawk's bill or rear quillon? In  modern knives, yes it can. But if the knife is a full tang model with a rear bolster, the word pommel is an improper description for the butt and rear bolster. I've seen it posted on web sites under pommel definitions that a pommel of some knives can be used to hammer in tent stakes.... what? A hidden tang knife that has a threaded-on pommel is already a weaker design, the only metal supporting the pommel is the threaded screw that extends inside the handle. Try this, and your knife may easily break. Would you hammer in a tent peg with a 1/4" to 3/8" machine screw with a small ball on the end? Of course not. So if you need a hammer, go get one, don't use a knife as a hammer! profileThe profile of the knife, sword, or dagger is the predominate outer shape. Knives are usually and first

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photographed in profile, and the patterns are show in profile. The verb profile means to actually cut, forge, or shape the knife to the dimensions exhibited in the profile pattern.  quillon (or quillion)In the very old days, this term referred to the arms or extensions in a crossguard that protruded farthest from the axis of the sword or dagger. In modern knives, this also refers to the projections that keep the hand from sliding forward onto the cutting edge, or backward off the knife handle. So a modern knife may have a front quillon or quillons, and rear quillon or quillons. The use of this word has been adapted to modern knives probably for lack of a better term to define those protuberances. By the way, the word is properly pronounced: "key-on." I frequently violate pronunciation, in an effort to be a rude westerner... even though it seems the word has evolved from the quill of a bird's feather, so one would think you would pronounce it like that, but the word is French. Does that mean that the French of old wrote with key pens and birds have keys at the base of their feathers? Ah, yes... er... we-we.  rabbet (rabbeted) tang Also called a push tang (old). The word "rabbet" comes from old French and means "beating down." This may refer to the way a tang was beaten down on an anvil to reduce the shape to a tang. The rabbeted tang is a knife tang that is terminated somewhere in the handle; the tang that does not fully extend to the pommel or butt of the handle. On fine handmade custom knives, this may be necessary when using unusual handle arrangements, such as a stag crown, where a large tang is desired, but the maker wishes to preserve the natural shape of the crown. It can be secured mechanically with pins, and sometimes by internal geometry which makes an adhesive bond permanent and mechanical. On factory knives, its often a cheap way to mount a handle, as the hidden part of the rabbet does not have to be finished, saving expense, and it is short and small, which saves on steel, and is not threaded or mounted, which saves on expense and finishing. Often, gummy, soft, or rubbery handle materials are mounted by being fused to a rabbeted tang, and because they flex, their durability is limited.   recurve (recurved) bladeThe recurve is a blade shape that is defined as bent in an opposite, backwards, or unusual direction. In today's knives, this usually means that the blade is curved downward, away from the ricasso, or swept foreword like a khukri, with a downward concave curve near the handle. Models of mine that also have recurved blades are the Hooded Warrior, the Magnum, and Horrocks.  Recurved blades can be difficult to sharpen, but have definite advantages. Read more on my Khukri page here, and on my Blades page here. reliefThis is the ground angle just behind the cutting edge. The edges of knives must be relieved, that is, material is removed at a low angle to the stone or sharpening instrument so that a precise, accurate and thin cutting edge can be applied (usually at a slightly higher angle). The relief is most visible as a scoured or ground line extending along the cutting edge of the knife. The cutting edge (above) is extremely small, barely visible to the naked eye. I talk about the cutting edge in depth on my "Blades" page here. ricassoThis is another term that has changed over the centuries. Originally, the Italians meant for it to describe the part of the blade of a dueling rapier between the cup guard and the quillons, which was also called the heel. Nowadays, we use the term to describe the thick, non-ground portion of the blade between the grinds and the guard or bolsters. In some web-based definitions, it's stated that the ricasso is where the tang stamps are usually located. This may be true in older, historic pieces, but with modern marking methods, a maker's mark or identifier may be located anywhere. See my page on maker's marks here. In modern knives, it's often a good idea to keep the ricasso as small as is possible, because it offers no cutting edge or purpose (other than increasing overall strength), and its length is added to the cutting edge length for legal descriptions of edge length, even though it can't cut! So the length of a knife blade in most states is from the point to the guard or front bolster face, and that includes the ricasso. I guess they figure that's how much of the blade can be shoved into someone, since all knives are evil weapons, and never useful tools or investment grade works of art...

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 rivets (knife handles)Interesting word. From Old French (river), meaning to make fast and tie off to shore. Rivets are shanks of (usually) metal, sometimes formed with heads, that are used in knives to secure the handle scales to the tang, or the bolsters to the tang. They are passed through holes in the tang and handle scales, and peened, the metal spread out, tightly pulling the materials together. I don't usually refer to bolster pins (above) as rivets, because they do not have a preformed head on them. In my own work, I do not use rivets to secure handle materials, ever. The reason is that a rivet must be peened and spread, both at the heads and through the shank, which imposes internal stresses on the handle material, shortening the life of it, possibly leading to cracks, splits, and unnecessary strain on the handle material. This can lead to failure of the handle. You'll see rivets used a lot in cheap factory knives, because it is a cheap and fast way to stick a piece of handle material to a blade tang.  rivets (sheaths)Just like the rivets above, these are shanks of metal that have a head or heads and are pressed and peened through a hole in the material. You'll see rivets and eyelets used on kydex sheaths a lot in this industry, and I believe it's a bad practice. The stresses from pressure, peening, and spreading metal in a thermoforming plastic will ultimately lead to failure around the thinnest portion of the kydex, right on the outside of the rivet or eyelet. These type of plastics change dramatically with temperature and environment, and they flex somewhat, so it's best to avoid rivets if possible. In leather,  they can work well, but careful consideration must be applied here, as leather reacts with most metals, particularly when damp, and leads to corrosion around the hole, staining the leather, and weakening the rivet. I won't say that I never use this method of mechanical fastening in sheaths, but I try to limit the practice. safe kingThe dominate collector's piece that resides in the gun and knife safe. It is never used, is the most admired and cherished piece in the collection, and retains great investor value and appreciation. It differs from the safe queen (below) because it is actually tough and useful.  safe queenIn custom gun and knife circles, it refers to a gun or knife that resides untouched in a safe, a collector's prized piece that dominates all others (except the safe king)  in appearance and sometimes delicacy.  scale, handleThe handle scales are the pieces of handle material that are mounted to full tang knives. Often, they sit between bolsters and are secured with pins, either hidden or exposed, or screws. Handle scales may set the value of the knife, and comprise a bewildering amount of materials in the modern knife.  They may be hardwoods, plastics, manmade materials, horn, bone, ivory, shell, and expensive gemstone. Learn more than you probably want to know about custom and handmade knife handles here, with links to pages about woods, natural materials, manmade materials, and gemstones. shackle breakerA specialized slot or tool used to lock onto the sides of stubborn shackles on sailing vessels and in rigging. In a way, it's a small, variable wrench. See marlinspike above. 

sheath knifeAn older term, referring to a fixed blade knife that is carried in a sheath. Is a pocket knife or folding knife that is carried in a belt sheath a sheath knife? Hmmm.... Kind of general and non-specific term... shoulderIn a hidden tang knife, dagger, or sword, the shoulder is the area where the face of the guard rests against the

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ricasso. See Knife Anatomy 10 above. This term is very ancient, dating back to early swords. The shoulder is an important area with hidden tang knives, because if a fracture between blade and handle is to occur, it will usually happen at the shoulder, unless the grind termination is abrupt and weak. See "grind termination" above. The shoulder supports the pressure applied from the pommel and through the handle material, solidifying the handle-blade junction. Please, do not refer to the grind termination as a shoulder! See why in "grind termination" above. skeleton, skeletonizedThis refers to the way a thick, full tang handle is milled and made. Used on a full tang knife handle that has no bolsters, handle scales, or mounted pieces, the blade is left very thick and not tapered. I usually do this on at least .250" thick stock. To reduce the handle weight and control handle to blade balance, some of the handle material is milled, drilled, or carved away, creating a skeleton of a handle, thus the name. Then, the handle and blade are one singular piece, preserving strength, eliminating differing materials and mounts, and creating a uniform piece of steel from tip to butt. Skeletonized knives can be lighter in weight, easier to clean, and less expensive. Their drawback? Depending on the design, the overall thinner handles may be uncomfortable to grip. solder lineIn hidden tang knives, the guard or fittings are often soldered to the knife tang to stabilize the joint and prevent infiltration of corrosives and fluids. The solder line should be as thin as possible, clean, even, and finished, with no pinholes, waviness, or irregularities. Low temperature solders are usually used, so as not to affect or change the knife blade temper. spacer materialUsually used in the handle, spacer material may be used for visual accent and style, and less typically to space or adjust the mechanics of fitting the handle. The spacer material may be any metal (copper, brass, nickel silver, or stainless steel) and/or plastics and manmade materials. A popular and nicely colored material that is frequently used is a vulcanized fish fiber originally created as an electrical insulator. This is sold by knife making supply companies. This is not a liner, a liner is a component on a folding knife: see liner above. spineLike the vertebrate, the spine supports the whole animal. In a well made knife, it forms the strength of beam that joins the handle to blade, and is the thickest, heaviest part of the knife. The thickest part of the spine should be at the blade-handle junction, not in the handle area (see tapered tang below).  spine depression, spine sculptingThe spine of a knife blade does not have to be straight or uniform. It may have a curve inward toward the cutting edge (called a spine depression) or it may sport full sculpting with carving and embellishment. This is not just for show or visual interest, the maker can control the overall weight of the blade by carefully reducing spine areas in wide-bladed knives. He usually does this knowing he must preserve enough mass in the spine for significant blade strength. 

stacked tangI first heard this term used by Don Norton, back in the early 1980s. It is a hidden tang knife handle, with sometimes numerous pieces of material shaped like doughnuts "stacked" onto a knife tang that may have a core of welded or brazed-on threaded rod. See Knife Anatomy pictures 10-12 above. The pieces (handle materials, wood, horn, bone, ivory, stone, spacer material, amber beads, etc.) are arranged and stacked onto the tang, assembled with epoxy and mechanically secured with a pommel. Then, the handle is ground to shape, sanded, polished, and finished. Very nice looking handle. I really should make more of those... stick tang

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Another term for a "hidden tang" or "stacked tang" (above).  sub-hiltA term for a finger-separating protrusion, usually made of metal that is within the handle area. In a hidden tang knife, it may be a thick piece of guard material that is located behind the forefinger in a traditional grip style. This allows greater security of grip, and pressure to be applied when pulling the knife blade through material (like sawing). On full tang knives, this is sometimes called a mid-bolster (above). swageThe word "swedge" may also be used, but that word is an antiquated substitution. You might see the text "swege" but that is not even a word. A swage is the top grind, taper, or bevel in the spine, frequently near the tip of the blade that is frequently called a false edge. The word swage comes from the anvil or tool that was once used to create it at the forge, and the term refers to a decorative edge. Calling it decorative is another bad interpretation of the purpose of a feature on a knife blade. In the old days, swages (or false edges) were left thick at the edge, so, naturally, it was assumed they were merely decorative, to give the appearance of another cutting edge only. On modern knives, many have a swage that is shaped or ground completely to the edge; they actually form a thick but sharp and formidable cutting edge. Why have a swage? The reason for the swage is most often to reduce the point thickness and cross sectional geometry without removing too much material to weaken the spine. This is usually done in tactical and combat knives to reduce the combination of point angles for greater penetration force on a smaller surface area at the point. A swage is usually flat ground or taper ground. If it is hollow ground and sharpened, it becomes an additional cutting edge, and the knife becomes double edged. A swage is usually never sharpened or honed, whereas a cutting edge has a grind, relief, and is sharpened.  taper (tang)On full tang knives (one solid piece of blade steel from tip to butt), the tang is frequently tapered. This leads to the thinnest portion of the tang at the butt of the handle. There are several reasons for this. It helps with weight balance by reducing the heavy stock in the handle. Also, it removes steel thickness where it is not needed for strength (most of the strength should remain in the spine). Additionally, it is an indicator of a well made, and usually handmade knife. Only the finest knives have tapered tangs, and the modern collector should expect tapered tangs on all his full tang knives. To leave a tang at full thickness is a sign of a lazy, inexperienced, or cheap knife and maker. Filework (Embellishment page here) applied to a tapered tang can demonstrate and exhibit great skill and care by the maker, greatly increasing the value of a handmade or custom knife. termination (grind)See "grind termination" above. See "plunge" grind above. thumb rise (thumb ramp, thumb rest)This is the extended tang portion of the knife usually along the spine that accommodates the thumb. This rise helps the thumb apply pressure, guiding the knife in the cut, and may be reinforced by the bolsters on heavy duty knives. On my models with locking sheaths, the thumb rise frequently accommodates the lock notch, where the lock tang engages. The thumb rise may also help prevent the hand from sliding forward onto the blade, and may present an area where the blade can be pinched between the finger and thumb for controlled cutting, such as dicing with a chef's knife.  tipSee "point" above. The tip is the end of the point. The tip is usually the easiest part of the knife blade to fracture, and it is the most used for penetration and the fine beginning of a cut. Tip geometry is important, a balance of useable thinness with enough material to support use. How a maker or manufacturer grinds the tip of the point should be determined by the blade's intended use, the blade material used, the temper of the blade, and the serviceability of the knife over time, as this area will change shape after repeated sharpenings more dramatically than any other part of the blade edge.

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 under-ground (blade)This is not a blade that is used to dig a foxhole! It refers to a blade (typical in manufactured knives) that has not been deeply ground, and is thin only at the cutting edge, having a shallow grind. The reason is economy and planned obsolesce. It's cheap and fast to do just a little bit of grinding on a knife blade, leaving a fairly thick edge, and get the knife out the door. It's also dangerous to grind thin blades (I go into that in my upcoming book). Also, if after three sharpenings the knife is unusable without regrinding, most manufacturers figure you'll buy another knife. There is plenty of sales and production psychology that goes into knife manufacturing, but the outcome is clear: an underground blade is a cheap, bad blade. wallhangerThis term is used to describe a knife that hangs on a wall, usually considered a display piece only. Guys that carry ugly or cheap knives like to use this term; sometimes they may think it degrades a beautiful knife. After all, they wouldn't use a fine beautiful tool in their lives, so why would you? You'll often hear the phrase, "that's just too pretty to use," and I talk about that more on a special topic on my FAQ page at this bookmark. When they say, "that's just a wallhanger," what they really mean is they can't afford a knife that nice. Okay, I'm being harsh here. Some really cheap knock-off swords, pop knives and imports are made only for display. So if it's a real knife, it's usually called a "collector's" knife, and if the wallhanger is made in Pakistan or China, it's just called decoration. washed (washed-over, washed-out)When knife blade, fitting, and handle materials are improperly finished, they lose their crisp lines of geometric form, and are often rounded-over  or washed by too much time spent on a buffer, trying to bring an improperly sanded and prepared surface to a bright finish. Sometimes, it is desirable to have a rounded form (such as at the inside of the handle quillons) but the finish of the edges and angles of the bolster faces and handle edges should still retain their geometric crisp angles and form. Washed-over knives are not high grade investment works, and it is something to look out for in a fine custom knife investment.  wavesWaves belong on the ocean, not on a knife! This refers to careless or inexperienced grinding. As the knife is held in a bright, uniform illumination, you can see undulating waves in the surface and geometry of the blade surface. Waves are caused by bad grind practice and too much time at the buffer. The maker attempts to remove scratches and smooth the contour of the knife by hogging out areas on the blade surface, destroying the crisp, clean grind lines that well made handmade custom knives are known for. I've seen this a lot in foreign makers, I don't know why, as they have access to the same information and technology that domestic makers do. If you see a knife like this, don't buy it, it's not worth the investment. weltUsed in knife sheaths, the welt forms a width to accommodate the thickness of the knife and blade, it establishes and strengthens the spine of the sheath, and offers a protective surface for the cutting edge to glide in and out of the sheath without cutting the fastening means, like stitches, rivets, or screws. This is not a gusset, and  please don't use that word! Literally, the word welt means: that which being sewn or otherwise fastened to a border serves to guard, strengthen, or adorn it. In the knife sheath, it does all three! See more about welts on my "Sheaths" page here. working knifeSee EDC above. The daily carried knife, not purchased for collection or investment value, but for use. Though these knives may be elaborate and even feature gemstone handles, full engraving, and a high price compared to factory knives, they are usually a maker's lower end in style, materials, and finish.