tipar rochie

33
50s style but on-trend, this easy dress can be made fancy or workaday – it’s all down to the fabric choice. By Jeanne Spaziani 1950s party frock making know how 115

Transcript of tipar rochie

Page 1: tipar rochie

’50s style but on-trend,

this easy dress can

be made fancy or

workaday – it’s all down

to the fabric choice.

By Jeanne Spaziani

1950s

party frock

making know how

115

Page 2: tipar rochie

w w w . c r a f t s i n s t i t u t e . c o m116

You will need2.25m of 145cm wide fabric for included pattern size Fabrics with some body to them are most suitable ie brocade, taffeta, velveteen, crisp cotton, firm wool, corduroys3m double fold seam binding (plus more if you want to use it on the hem)18in zip (set-in or invisible as preferred)Small hook and loop for top of zipSewing equipment

1. Print out the pattern on page 146 and cut the following from your fabric: one front bodice, one front facing, a pair of back bodices, pair of back facings, one front skirt, and a pair of back skirts.

2. Begin sewing by stay-stitching the neckline and armhole areas of all bodice and facing pieces close to the 1cm stitching lines. This is particularly important on the back neck ‘V’ but will help all areas keep their shape.

3. Sew the six bodice darts – press all vertical darts towards the front and back centres and the side bust darts down. Attach the front to the backs at the side seams of the bodice and sew the facings side seams with the 1.5cm seam allowances. These seams are all best pressed open. For fabrics that fray the seam allowances can be clean finished with some of the bias binding. Other fabrics can simply be pinked or zig zag stitched along the edges. Leave the shoulder seams open until after the facings are sewn on.

4. Attaching the facings is the next step – with right sides together pin each in place at the bodice neck lines and armholes and sew with a 1cm seam allowance. Be sure to sew the back necks all the way to the centre back edges.

5. Edge stitch each section on the facing side. Clip curved areas well and grade

the seam allowances if they are feeling thick. Turn the facings to the inside of the bodice sections and press the neckline and armholes flat.

6. The shoulder seams are attached next. Pin each shoulder right sides together and hand baste if necessary to keep the facings from rolling out, then machine sew. Press the seams open and hand stitch the raw edges in place onto the facings with close stitches so they look neat and no fraying will occur.

7. Attach the front skirt to the back skirts and the centre back seams up to the zip notch. Press these three seams open and neaten the edges in a way appropriate to your fabric. Form the eight 5cm pleats and the centre front 15cm box pleats by following the direction of the arrows marked on the pattern. Stay stitch the entire skirt waist so the pleats are held in place and won’t push out when sewn to the bodice.

8. With right sides together, pin and sew the skirt to the bodice matching the side seams and centre front notches. Cover the seam allowance edges with a piece of the bias binding to clean finish and help from stretching. Press the seam allowance up

towards the bodice. Catch stitch it in place on the bodice side seams

to hold.

9. Insert the zip in the centre-back seam using 1.5cm seam allowance. Best not to sew the facing in with the zip, it gets hand stitched in place after. Place so the zip head is 7.5mm

below the finished top edge. The seam

allowance section below the facing can be clean

finished with bias binding or pinking as you think best. After the

zip is sewn in the seam allowances of the facing get turned back and slip stitched in place along the zip tape.

10. Sew the small hook and loop in place above the zip. Tack the facings in place at the bodice side seams to keep them from flipping up. The hem turning allowed on the pattern is 5cm. Adjust as needed. The hem can be machine or hand sewn in place as your fabric needs or time allows. Thread belt loops can be worked at each side seam to hold a pretty ribbon or purchased belt in place.

Resources Brocade from author’s stash

1. If your fabric is on the soft side consider interfacing the entire

bodice with a medium weight iron-on interfacing and mounting the skirt onto

organza or net to give it more body.2. The bodice can be used with different

skirt patterns – add a tight pencil skirt for a wiggle dress or a circular skirt

for a rockabilly style. The skirt pattern can be used on its

own too – just add a waistband.

Tips

Page 3: tipar rochie

place on foldcentre front

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Front Bodicecut 1 on centre front fold

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Back Bodicecut 1 pair

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Dress fits bust 88 cm, waist 69 cm (M&S size10)Hem circumference: 230 cm, Skirt length: 61 cm

Page 4: tipar rochie

place on foldcentre front

straight grain

Fron

t Fac

ing

cut 1

on

CF fo

ld

Stra

ight

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in

Front Bodicecut 1 on centre front fold

cent

re fr

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10cm x 10cmprint accuracy check square

Back Bodicecut 1 pair

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stra

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gra

inBack Facingcut 1 pair

cent

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ack

Dress fits bust 88 cm, waist 69 cm (M&S size10)Hem circumference: 230 cm, Skirt length: 61 cm

Page 5: tipar rochie

place on foldcentre front

straight grain

Fron

t Fac

ing

cut 1

on

CF fo

ld

Stra

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in

Front Bodicecut 1 on centre front fold

cent

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10cm x 10cmprint accuracy check square

Back Bodicecut 1 pair

straight grain

stra

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inBack Facingcut 1 pair

cent

re b

ack

Dress fits bust 88 cm, waist 69 cm (M&S size10)Hem circumference: 230 cm, Skirt length: 61 cm

Page 6: tipar rochie

place on foldcentre front

straight grain

Fron

t Fac

ing

cut 1

on

CF fo

ld

Stra

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in

Front Bodicecut 1 on centre front fold

cent

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pla

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10cm x 10cmprint accuracy check square

Back Bodicecut 1 pair

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stra

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gra

inBack Facingcut 1 pair

cent

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ack

Dress fits bust 88 cm, waist 69 cm (M&S size10)Hem circumference: 230 cm, Skirt length: 61 cm

Page 7: tipar rochie

place on foldcentre front

straight grain

Fron

t Fac

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cut 1

on

CF fo

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Stra

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Front Bodicecut 1 on centre front fold

cent

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10cm x 10cmprint accuracy check square

Back Bodicecut 1 pair

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stra

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inBack Facingcut 1 pair

cent

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ack

Dress fits bust 88 cm, waist 69 cm (M&S size10)Hem circumference: 230 cm, Skirt length: 61 cm

Page 8: tipar rochie

place on foldcentre front

straight grain

Fron

t Fac

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cut 1

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Stra

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Front Bodicecut 1 on centre front fold

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Back Bodicecut 1 pair

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Dress fits bust 88 cm, waist 69 cm (M&S size10)Hem circumference: 230 cm, Skirt length: 61 cm

Page 9: tipar rochie

place on foldcentre front

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Fron

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cut 1

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Stra

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Front Bodicecut 1 on centre front fold

cent

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10cm x 10cmprint accuracy check square

Back Bodicecut 1 pair

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ack

Dress fits bust 88 cm, waist 69 cm (M&S size10)Hem circumference: 230 cm, Skirt length: 61 cm

Page 10: tipar rochie

place on foldcentre front

straight grain

Fron

t Fac

ing

cut 1

on

CF fo

ld

Stra

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Gra

in

Front Bodicecut 1 on centre front fold

cent

re fr

ont

pla

ce o

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10cm x 10cmprint accuracy check square

Back Bodicecut 1 pair

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stra

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cent

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ack

Dress fits bust 88 cm, waist 69 cm (M&S size10)Hem circumference: 230 cm, Skirt length: 61 cm

Page 11: tipar rochie

place on foldcentre front

straight grain

Fron

t Fac

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cut 1

on

CF fo

ld

Stra

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cent

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10cm x 10cmprint accuracy check square

Back Bodicecut 1 pair

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Dress fits bust 88 cm, waist 69 cm (M&S size10)Hem circumference: 230 cm, Skirt length: 61 cm

Page 12: tipar rochie

Centre Front cut on fold

Front Skirt cut 1 on fold of fabric

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10cm x 10cm

print accuracy square

straight grain

Back

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Page 13: tipar rochie

Centre Front cut on fold

Front Skirt cut 1 on fold of fabric

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10cm x 10cm

print accuracy square

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Back

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Page 14: tipar rochie

Centre Front cut on fold

Front Skirt cut 1 on fold of fabric

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10cm x 10cm

print accuracy square

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Back

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Page 15: tipar rochie

Centre Front cut on fold

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Back

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Page 16: tipar rochie

Centre Front cut on fold

Front Skirt cut 1 on fold of fabric

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Back

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Page 17: tipar rochie

Centre Front cut on fold

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Back

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Page 18: tipar rochie

Centre Front cut on fold

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Page 19: tipar rochie

Centre Front cut on fold

Front Skirt cut 1 on fold of fabric

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10cm x 10cm

print accuracy square

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Back

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centre back

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Page 20: tipar rochie

Centre Front cut on fold

Front Skirt cut 1 on fold of fabric

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10cm x 10cm

print accuracy square

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Back

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Page 21: tipar rochie

Centre Front cut on fold

Front Skirt cut 1 on fold of fabric

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10cm x 10cm

print accuracy square

straight grain

Back

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Page 22: tipar rochie

Centre Front cut on fold

Front Skirt cut 1 on fold of fabric

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10cm x 10cm

print accuracy square

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ck S

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cut 1

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Page 23: tipar rochie

Centre Front cut on fold

Front Skirt cut 1 on fold of fabric

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10cm x 10cm

print accuracy square

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Back

Ski

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Page 24: tipar rochie

Centre Front cut on fold

Front Skirt cut 1 on fold of fabric

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10cm x 10cm

print accuracy square

straight grain

Back

Ski

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t 1 p

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centre back

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Page 25: tipar rochie

Centre Front cut on fold

Front Skirt cut 1 on fold of fabric

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10cm x 10cm

print accuracy square

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Back

Ski

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Page 26: tipar rochie

Centre Front cut on fold

Front Skirt cut 1 on fold of fabric

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pleat

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10cm x 10cm

print accuracy square

straight grain

Back

Ski

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centre back

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Page 27: tipar rochie

Centre Front cut on fold

Front Skirt cut 1 on fold of fabricstraight grain

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10cm x 10cm

print accuracy square

straight grain

Back

Ski

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Page 28: tipar rochie

Centre Front cut on fold

Front Skirt cut 1 on fold of fabric

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pleat

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10cm x 10cm

print accuracy square

straight grain

Back

Ski

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Page 29: tipar rochie

Centre Front cut on fold

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10cm x 10cm

print accuracy square

straight grain

Back

Ski

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centre back

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Page 30: tipar rochie

Centre Front cut on fold

Front Skirt cut 1 on fold of fabric

straight grain

pleat

pleat

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10cm x 10cm

print accuracy square

straight grain

Back

Ski

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centre back

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Page 31: tipar rochie

Centre Front cut on fold

Front Skirt cut 1 on fold of fabric

straight grain

pleat

pleat

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10cm x 10cm

print accuracy square

straight grain

Back

Ski

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centre back

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to h

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Page 32: tipar rochie

place on foldcentre front

straight grain

Fron

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cut 1

on

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ld

Stra

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in

Front Bodicecut 1 on centre front fold

cent

re fr

ont

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10cm x 10cmprint accuracy check square

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stra

ight

gra

inBack Facingcut 1 pair

cent

re b

ack

Dress fits bust 88 cm, waist 69 cm (M&S size10)Hem circumference: 230 cm, Skirt length: 61 cm

place on foldcentre front

straight grain

Fron

t Fac

ing

cut 1

on

CF fo

ld

Stra

ight

Gra

in

Front Bodicecut 1 on centre front fold

cent

re fr

ont

p

lace

on

fold

10cm x 10cmprint accuracy check square

Back Bodicecut 1 pair

straight grain

stra

ight

gra

inBack Facingcut 1 pair

cent

re b

ack

Dress fits bust 88 cm, waist 69 cm (M&S size10)Hem circumference: 230 cm, Skirt length: 61 cm

place on foldcentre front

straight grain

Fron

t Fac

ing

cut 1

on

CF fo

ld

Stra

ight

Gra

in

Front Bodicecut 1 on centre front fold

cent

re fr

ont

p

lace

on

fold

10cm x 10cmprint accuracy check square

Back Bodicecut 1 pair

straight grain

stra

ight

gra

inBack Facingcut 1 pair

cent

re b

ack

Dress fits bust 88 cm, waist 69 cm (M&S size10)Hem circumference: 230 cm, Skirt length: 61 cm

place on foldcentre front

straight grainFr

ont F

acin

gcu

t 1 o

n CF

fold

Stra

ight

Gra

in

Front Bodicecut 1 on centre front fold

cent

re fr

ont

p

lace

on

fold

10cm x 10cmprint accuracy check square

Back Bodicecut 1 pair

straight grain

stra

ight

gra

inBack Facingcut 1 pair

cent

re b

ack

Dress fits bust 88 cm, waist 69 cm (M&S size10)Hem circumference: 230 cm, Skirt length: 61 cm

place on foldcentre front

straight grain

Fron

t Fac

ing

cut 1

on

CF fo

ld

Stra

ight

Gra

in

Front Bodicecut 1 on centre front fold

cent

re fr

ont

p

lace

on

fold

10cm x 10cmprint accuracy check square

Back Bodicecut 1 pair

straight grain

stra

ight

gra

inBack Facingcut 1 pair

cent

re b

ack

Dress fits bust 88 cm, waist 69 cm (M&S size10)Hem circumference: 230 cm, Skirt length: 61 cm

place on foldcentre front

straight grain

Fron

t Fac

ing

cut 1

on

CF fo

ld

Stra

ight

Gra

in

Front Bodicecut 1 on centre front fold

cent

re fr

ont

p

lace

on

fold

10cm x 10cmprint accuracy check square

Back Bodicecut 1 pair

straight grain

stra

ight

gra

inBack Facingcut 1 pair

cent

re b

ack

Dress fits bust 88 cm, waist 69 cm (M&S size10)Hem circumference: 230 cm, Skirt length: 61 cm

place on foldcentre front

straight grain

Fron

t Fac

ing

cut 1

on

CF fo

ld

Stra

ight

Gra

in

Front Bodicecut 1 on centre front fold

cent

re fr

ont

p

lace

on

fold

10cm x 10cmprint accuracy check square

Back Bodicecut 1 pair

straight grain

stra

ight

gra

inBack Facingcut 1 pair

cent

re b

ack

Dress fits bust 88 cm, waist 69 cm (M&S size10)Hem circumference: 230 cm, Skirt length: 61 cm

place on foldcentre front

straight grain

Fron

t Fac

ing

cut 1

on

CF fo

ld

Stra

ight

Gra

in

Front Bodicecut 1 on centre front fold

cent

re fr

ont

p

lace

on

fold

10cm x 10cmprint accuracy check square

Back Bodicecut 1 pair

straight grain

stra

ight

gra

inBack Facingcut 1 pair

cent

re b

ack

Dress fits bust 88 cm, waist 69 cm (M&S size10)Hem circumference: 230 cm, Skirt length: 61 cm

place on foldcentre front

straight grainFr

ont F

acin

gcu

t 1 o

n CF

fold

Stra

ight

Gra

in

Front Bodicecut 1 on centre front fold

cent

re fr

ont

p

lace

on

fold

10cm x 10cmprint accuracy check square

Back Bodicecut 1 pair

straight grain

stra

ight

gra

inBack Facingcut 1 pair

cent

re b

ack

Dress fits bust 88 cm, waist 69 cm (M&S size10)Hem circumference: 230 cm, Skirt length: 61 cm

Page 33: tipar rochie

Centre Front cut on fold

Front Skirt cut 1 on fold of fabric

straight grain

pleat

pleat

pleat

10cm x 10cm

print accuracy square

straight grain

Back

Ski

rtcu

t 1 p

air

centre back

zip

to h

ere

plea

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eat

Centre Front cut on fold

Front Skirt cut 1 on fold of fabric

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pleat

pleat

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10cm x 10cm

print accuracy square

straight grain

Back

Ski

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centre back

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Centre Front cut on fold

Front Skirt cut 1 on fold of fabric

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10cm x 10cm

print accuracy square

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Back

Ski

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Centre Front cut on fold

Front Skirt cut 1 on fold of fabric

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Centre Front cut on fold

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print accuracy square

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Centre Front cut on fold

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Back

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Centre Front cut on fold

Front Skirt cut 1 on fold of fabric

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10cm x 10cm

print accuracy square

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Back

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Centre Front cut on fold

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print accuracy square

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Centre Front cut on fold

Front Skirt cut 1 on fold of fabric

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10cm x 10cm

print accuracy square

straight grain

Back

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Centre Front cut on fold

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10cm x 10cm

print accuracy square

straight grain

Back

Ski

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centre back

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Centre Front cut on fold

Front Skirt cut 1 on fold of fabric

straight grain

pleat

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10cm x 10cm

print accuracy square

straight grain

Back

Ski

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centre back

zip

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Centre Front cut on fold

Front Skirt cut 1 on fold of fabric

straight grain

pleat

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10cm x 10cm

print accuracy square

straight grain

Back

Ski

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t 1 p

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centre back

zip

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Centre Front cut on fold

Front Skirt cut 1 on fold of fabric

straight grain

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10cm x 10cm

print accuracy square

straight grain

Back

Ski

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centre back

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Centre Front cut on fold

Front Skirt cut 1 on fold of fabric

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10cm x 10cm

print accuracy square

straight grain

Back

Ski

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Centre Front cut on fold

Front Skirt cut 1 on fold of fabric

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10cm x 10cm

print accuracy square

straight grain

Back

Ski

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Centre Front cut on fold

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10cm x 10cm

print accuracy square

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Back

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Centre Front cut on fold

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10cm x 10cm

print accuracy square

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Centre Front cut on fold

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Ski

rtcu

t 1 p

air

centre back

zip

to h

ere

plea

tpl

eat

Centre Front cut on fold

Front Skirt cut 1 on fold of fabric

straight grain

pleat

pleat

pleat

10cm x 10cm

print accuracy square

straight grain

Back

Ski

rtcu

t 1 p

air

centre back

zip

to h

ere

plea

tpl

eat

Centre Front cut on fold

Front Skirt cut 1 on fold of fabric

straight grain

pleat

pleat

pleat

10cm x 10cm

print accuracy square

straight grain

Back

Ski

rtcu

t 1 p

air

centre back

zip

to h

ere

plea

tpl

eat