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A better quality of life for man and animal: 1Your own garden pond

Tips for pond builders

The ecosystem of a pond in your gardenprovides a living-environment that is con-ducive to animals and plants, which hasnowadays become rare in nature. Thespecies of animals and the splendid colorsof lush flowering plants make the pond aleisure center for your home. The pondbecomes a beautiful attraction in your gar-den as well as an invaluable ecosystem forplants and animals.

For best results when building a pond,design the infrastructure according to anatural water ecosystem. This guide showsyou how. With the proper knowledge inpond construction you can avoid mistakesas you build or even correct those found inexisting ponds.

Our sera guide How to maintain and cul-tivate a garden pond offers additionalguidance for the pond owner.

Pond care is not difficult when you payattention to our tips, but nature needs abit of help from you. If a problem in the

cycle of nature occurs, information onpossible sources and measures are foundin the sera guide How to maintain andcultivate a garden pond.

We wish you success and, above all, a lotof pleasure!


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0 cm (0 in.)

20 cm (8 in.)

40 cm (16 in.)

60 cm (24 in.)

80 cm (31 in.)

100 cm (40 in.)

The best time for building a pond is inspring. The plants will have gathered suffi-cient strength to take roots and thrive.The warm water in late spring and in sum-mer accelerates the expansion-phase oftaking roots.However, you can still build a pond untilautumn, as long as there are warm daysfor placing the liner in the pond (see chap-ter 2.9).

In this case, you should wait until the fol-lowing spring (April), when the water tem-perature is above 15C (59F), to plant.

For a pond to function biologically andregulate naturally, the pond area should beat least 10 m2 (108 ft.2). It is equal to an areaof 3.2 m x 3.2 m (10.5 ft. x 10.5 ft.). Thedeepest part of the pond should be atleast 1 meter (3.3 ft.) with an area of 2 m2

(21.5 ft.2). There are two reasons for this:

1 In hot summer, the fish and other livingbeings are drawn into cooler water

zones, which contain more oxygen.

2 The best hibernation temperature forpond animals is +4C (39F). Water is at itshighest density at +4C (39F). The watersinks at this temperature. During winter,with temperatures as low as minus 20C(minus 4F), the deeper water zone ofyour pond would be exactly +4C (39F).That is, the pond depth must be1 meter (3.3 ft.) or deeper. The pond mayfreeze entirely if it is not deep enough.

Hibernation zone of the pond animals

mold+4C / 39F

+3C / 37F

+2C / 36F

+1C / 34F

ice layer

2 Preparation and pond construction

4

2.1 The best season 2.2 Size of the pond


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Not all heaters are alike! For winter heat-ing, unless you use a pond heater specifi-cally designed to keep the water at a con-stant 20C (68F) even in winter, you areputting your fish at risk. When using othertypes of heaters in the pond, you createwarm water zones around the heater. Dur-ing the winter or spring, if your fish swiminto these areas from their hibernationzones it can result in the fish dying.

Remember, optimum water temperaturefor hibernation is +4C (39F). Aquariumheaters must never be used in a pond, forsafety reasons. Most aquarium heaters aredeveloped and manufactured for indooruse and have not been equipped with elec-trical cords that are weather and UV lightresistant or ground protected. You willfind more information about this in thechapter 2.11 How to set up a Koi pond.

Caution!

The ideal location

Preparation and pond construction 2

5

2.3 Location

We recommend a location with some sun-ny hours for the pond. If possible, do notbuild the pond too near to trees with aheavy fall of leaves or needles. Leaves andneedles that fall into the pond will rot andheavily pollute the water. The depletion ofoxygen caused by this endangers the fishand other animals in your garden pond.Needles, especially, are very difficult toremove from the water.

If the pond is to be located near largetrees, it is virtually impossible not to dam-age their roots. Cut the roots carefully andnot too drastically. Smaller branching rootswill form at the root ends where it hasbeen cut. Actually, this improves thegrowth and the vitality of the tree.


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There are larger prefabricated pondsassembled from several parts with screws

and glue, according to the modular assem-bly principle. Especially with larger prefab-ricated ponds, they are quite bulky andoften have a problem with transportation.

Almost all prefabricated ponds have steepwalls and require exit helps so that fallenanimals can escape from the water. As well,their shapes and sizes cannot always adaptto individual desires.

Pond liners are the most advantageous forthe flexibility to build virtually any desiredshape and size, also they are very easy tohandle. Greater water depths do not causeany problems.

A well-proven material for pond liners isthe durable PVC plastic. Common liner-thickness is between 0.5 and 1.5 mm.Thicker liners are strongly recommendedespecially for larger ponds as they havemore reserves for stretching.Laminated PVC textured liners are unsuit-able. Weather influences can cause the lay-ers to loosen. This will severely damage thepond and cause water leaks.

Polyethylene (PE) liner is an alternative.This material cannot be glued with com-

mon pond liner glue. It requires a specialgluing technique.

Rubberized (EPDM) pond liner is UV andfrost-resistant. It is very elastic, durable,and is becoming a popular choice. This lin-er also needs a special gluing technique ifseveral pieces are to be combined. Rub-berized (EPDM) liner may be much moreexpensive than PVC or PE liner.

Prefabricated plastic ponds and, above all,pond liners, have proved to be the bestand most successful.

Construction materials for prefabricatedponds are mainly polyethylene (PE) andreinforced fiberglass plastic. The advan-tages of prefabricated ponds are their highdurability and their ease in setting-up.However, prefabricated ponds have their

limitations. Even the larger models, madefrom a single molding, provide less than10 m2 (108 ft.2) surface area with a volumeof less than 10 m3 (353 ft.3). Their depth isusually up to 80 cm (32 in.), which is notsuitable for fish to hibernate.


6

2.4 Prefabricated pondor liner pond?


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size in the drawing. If the pond pit isalready excavated, the liner requirement iseasily measured with a cord. Just lay onecord along and another across the exca-vated pond. Then measure the lengths ofthe laid cords. Add 140 cm (55 in.) to eachof the measurements (along and across).The additional length is necessary for tworeasons:

1 The laid liner cannot be absolutelysmooth; the creases require additionalmaterial.

2 If the liner sufficiently exceeds theedges, you prevent the pond from beinghollowed out. Furthermore you avoidthe liner being pulled into the pond. Anappropriate capillarity barrier preventsthe pond water from being sucked outof the pond by the surrounding soil andthe grass roots.

Tarpaulin contains toxic heavy metals(cadmium) and should not be used forponds under any circumstance!

When buying a pond liner, sera suggestspaying more attention to the quality thanto the price. The pond liner should beresistant to UV light and frost (down tominus 30C / minus 22F), otherwise it rap-idly becomes brittle. It should also beharmless to fish and plants.

Before buying a pond liner, you shoulddraw a sectional drawing (along andacross) of the planned pond. You draw inall troughs, plant terraces etc., with anadditional 70 cm (28 in.) all around for the

edge projection. We recommend a draw-ing scale of 1:50 metric (0.4:20 US standard).This means that 1 cm (0.4 in.) in the draw-ing represents 50 cm (20 in.) in the realpond. Now you can measure the required

Preparation steps for a liner pond, areshown on pages 12 and 13.

Schematic drawing of a capillarity barrier

Before starting to make any calculations,we recommend that you read this guidethoroughly. Otherwise, you might missimportant information in designing yourpond.

water

fine sand

pebbles liner


7

2.5 Determination of the liner size


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When designing the pond, use your imagi-nation. If you pay attention to the tips inour guide, you can have many hours ofpleasure with your water garden.

swamp zone(see page 28 +)

floating leaf plants(see page 30) floating

min. 1 mwith thick

stones as decorationand light protection(see page 10)

capillarity barrier(see page 7)

fine sand

pond liner

Basic design of a pond


8

2.6 Construction and designof the pond


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ants

submerged plants(see page 27)

sera pond filter

(see page 20 +)

3 ft.) deepavel cover

growing plants

max. 15 cm (6 in.) deep

min. 30 cm (12 in.) wide,40 50 cm (16 20 in.) deep

edge fixation(see page 10)


9


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Examples for the designof bank zones

Recommended only for the professional:a concrete bowl instead of a finished pond or pond liner


11


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First, excavate the pond pit where itshould be situated and build the variousplant terraces according to your ideas.Consider the requirements (swamp, shal-low water, deep water, etc.) of the desiredpond plants.The look of the bank is determined espe-cially by the highest plant terrace. Theslopes, also between the plant terraces,should be as smooth as possible. Mostly a

descent of 1:2, this means 50 cm (20 in.)height difference per meter (3.3 ft.), isbest.If the pond is to be placed in a lawn we rec-ommend cutting-out the lawn into lengthsof sod and stacking these aside. The exca-vated matrix soil is perfectly suitable forbuilding a hill bed.

Make sure the pond edge is on one level.Otherwise, the bank on the higher side willremain water- free after the pond is filled.

The hose spirit-level is an important instru-ment to control the level. You can easilyprepare one by yourself: Simply buy sever-al meters of transparent filter hose and fillit with water (bubble-free) to a largeextent. Place this hose into the pit. It is notimportant whether the hose is laid flat, incurves, or partly rolled-up on the ground.The hose spirit-level works according tothe principle of communicating vessels,

this means that water level at each hoseend is always the same.

Quite simple:

the hose spirit-level


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2.8 Excavation of the pond pit


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Tip: The water overflow

During the excavation you should havealready considered a place where the pondcan overflow in the direction you wish. Forexample, attach a plastic pipe so that itdirects the overflowing water onto a gritbed or into the drainage of the house. Thepipe should be fixed to the liner. Attach asuction screen to the pipe to prevent fishand other animal from entering and caus-ing a clog in the pipe.Edging the pipe with stones is also suitableto keep young fish away from the pipe.

;

;

;

;

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;

;

;

Also suitable for smaller ponds, a

spirit-level may be laid upon a long

straight board, across the pond.

Water overflow

Excavating the pit Smoothing the pond pit

stoneedging

prevention lattice

overflow pipe

grit bed

linerdescent into the

direction of the grit bed


13

After excavating the pit, you must thor-oughly remove all sharp objects (stones,

nails, glass fragments etc.), and then padthe pit with fine sand. On steep slopes youwill need an underlay for liner protection.

This must be done very carefully, becauseany sharp stone can destroy the work ofdays within a few hours.


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The warmer the weather, the smootherthe liner becomes. It fits and conforms tothe shape of the pond pit with fewercreases. So, if possible, lay the pond lineron a warm day. This is easily done with afew helpers. Grasp the liner at the edgesand carry it over the pond. Let the linerdown from above.Smooth out the creases as much as possi-ble. Do not wear sharp-edged shoes while

you are doing this. For all kinds of workthat make it necessary to step on the liner,it is best to wear shoes with rounded rub-ber soles.

By using liner almost no line is drawn tothe pond in respect of size or form

Tips:

1 Increase the liner durability by coveringit with gravel completely, and attachingslope mats. These coarsely structuredmats serve as light protection, and pro-vide good support for the growingplants.

2 Avoid stretching the liner. In time, thestretching will inevitably cause damageand will require considerable repairs.


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2.9 Laying the pond liner


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Now you can put the bottom gravel intothe pond. In the deep water zone you onlyneed a layer of approximately 1 cm (0.4 in.)of gravel; as the years progress enoughmaterial will fall into the pond to fill thisarea. The other plant terraces should becovered with a layer of gravel between5 and 8 cm (2 3.2 in.).

Tightly pile with larger pebbles to coverthe steeper slopes. The upper plant ter-race is not filled for the time being.For bottom gravel, gravel and pebbles aresuitable but never use garden soil or topsoil.


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2.10 The bottom gravel


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The instructions in the main section alsoapply to Koi ponds, with some additions tobe considered.Koi can grow to more than 1 meter (3.3 ft.)long! Due to their size, Koi need morespace than other pond fish.A basic rule is:A Koi of about 50 cm (20 in.) long requires1 m3 / 35.3 ft.3 (1,000 liters / 265 gal.) ofwater. Except for a few models, most

prefabricated ponds are not suitable. Gen-erally, the larger the pond, the better. Alarger pond requires less work for watercare than a small one!Koi ponds are usually laid out with steepslopes. In shallow swamp zones, the fishmay get trapped in the plant thicket andoften are not able to free themselves. Ide-ally, the wall in Koi ponds has a verticalslope of about 25 cm (10 in.) high. By this,it hinders the ornamental fish from injuries

by land animals such as raccoons or cats.Sometimes these land animals can splashthe fish out of the pond.The average Koi pond should be about0.5 1 m (20 40 in.) deep. Deep water zonesfor fish hibernation should be at least 1.5 m(5 ft.), or better 2 m (6.6 ft.).Many passionate Koi lovers are now usingspecial heaters for their ponds. The watertemperature is maintained at 20C (68F)

year-round. In such cases, the fish stayactive throughout the year and must befed. Hibernation then of course is inappli-cable to the fish. There is no harm for theornamental fish, Koi are not compelled tohibernate.A possible alternative, is to install an air-permeable roof, like a greenhouse, whichcovers the pond in winter. Here, the rise inwater temperature will be insufficient tokeep the fish active during the winter.

Especially recommended

for Koi ponds:vertical slopes as preventionagainst raccoons or cats

approx. 25 cm (10 in.)


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2.11 How to set up a Koi pond


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Do not fill your pond with water all atonce. Fill only in several stages. Strongwater pressure induces force to the pondliner and the ground. If the pond is filledwith water in several stages, the liner willhave enough time to adjust and adaptunder moderate pressure. This is becauseof the lesser impact of the force. After fill-ing the pond two-thirds of the way, thewater should be conditioned. Please read

the chapter 3.2, How to condition thepond water before the pond is complete-ly filled.Two important tips for filling the pond:

1 Control by recording the display of yourwater meter before and after the filling.If possible, avoid any greater waterrequirements for the household. In thespace provided, write the water con-sumption for filling the pond two-thirds:

Pond filled by 2/3:

Final filling: +

Addition of both= complete filling:

The water content of your garden pond isimportant for all further maintenancebecause the dosage of the various condi-

tioners and water care products dependson the amount of water.

2 Do not use a strong water jet to fill thepond. You will destroy much of yourdecoration and whirl up the gravel. It iseasiest to direct the water jet into a flatplastic tub or a bucket. To remove thecontainer from the pond later, it is bestto have it attached to a cord. Do not usecontainers previously used with cleaningagents or other chemicals.

At last!

Water the source of life 3

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3.1 How to fill the pond with water


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Due to the increase of environmental pol-lution, the quality of our tap water is con-stantly decreasing and is treated withstrong chlorine or disinfectant to destroygerms that are harmful to humans.The pH value is usually in the mild alkalineregion (7.5 to 8.5). Other trouble sourcesare the high nitrate and phosphate valuesthat are responsible for the growth offloating and smear algae. Of course, there

are also many other environmental influ-

ences that affect thepond water. The seraguide How to maintainand cultivate a gardenpond offers tips onthe correct care ofpond water. sera hasdeveloped several effective watercare products so that you can conditionthe water according to the requirements

of the fish and plants:

3 Water the source of life

18

sera crystal binds water turbidity in thepond water making it easy to filter-out.Thus, sera crystal cleanses the pond water.Bound particles must be removed regular-ly until the water is filtered. Make sure toagitate the water well to enhance oxygensupply. The carbonate hardness must be atleast 5dKH.

sera KOI PROTECT ensures pond water con-ditioning according to natural require-ments. sera KOI PROTECT contains skin pro-tecting colloids, a vitamin B complex and awater cleansing additive. Thus, the pond isprovided with healthy water conditionsaccording to the demands of the fish. It isindispensable, from the initial filling of thepond, to every water change and afterheavy rainfalls. Furthermore, it protectsyour precious fish against heavy metals,chlorine and harmful environmental influ-ences.

3.2 How to condition the pond water


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A 2-kilogram bag of sera biopeat granu-late is sufficient for 5,000 liters (1,320 gal.)

of water. If necessary, the dosage can beincreased without harmful effects. Thehumic acids in sera biopeat granulateare released slowly and constantly, for along-lasting effect. We recommendreplacing sera biopeat granulate with anappropriate amount every two months.

Now let your pond settle in for a couple ofdays as the liner will still need to adjustitself at certain spots.Also, the water pressure settles the gravel

inside the pond and it makes plantingmuch easier.Now fix the liner at the edges. Just look atthe sketches in chapter 2.7. There is noproblem in planting marsh plants abovethe liner at the pond edge.Afterwards, install one or several serapond filters according to the pond size. Wewill provide more information about this inthe next chapter.


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sera pondmorena supports the combatof algae. Its light filtration capabili-ties shield the spectrum requiredby the algae. sera pondmorena alsohelps prevent against many fishdiseases and enhances plantgrowth.After the pond has been filled byapprox. 2/3, we recommend ad-ding a single dose of sera KOIPROTECT and a double dose ofsera pondmorena. Please calcu-late the required dose accord-ing to the water consumption

you wrote down on page 17.

Now put sand onto the upper plant terraceand completely fill the pond with water.The water consumption taken now and thetotal consumption, is the total content ofyour pond. Record this valuable informa-tion on page 17.Again condition the additional water asdescribed above.As a support for long-term measures, werecommend the addition of sera biopeatgranulate. In doing so, sera pondmorenaincreases the light filtrating effect.


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The sera pond filter W 1500 is providedwith a T-piece that allows you to adjust thewater outlet as desired. You may choosefrom the beautiful fountain spray, whichreaches 1.60 meters (63 in.) high! or select

the combination fountain an below-sur-face water outlet. Due to its high power,the sera pond filter W 1500 is ideal forattaching to a waterfall or a spout.

serafilter spongesera

biofibres

serabiopur

Cross sectional drawingof the filter tub

The large filter tub consists of a variety offilter media that is included with the set(filter sponge, sera biofibres and serabiopur). It provides plenty of settling spacefor the bacteria that break-down wasteproducts. Because of this the pond wateris mechanically and biologically cleaned.

One sera pond filter W 1500 is sufficient forgarden ponds up to 10,000 liters (2,650 gal.) or more, if the water is very clean. Forlarger ponds, we recommend installingseveral sera pond filters.

Biologically clean water is important forthe living conditions of the animals andplants in and around the garden pond.

The ecosystem of your pond water is welllooked after by the sera pond filters. Theyclean the pond water according to theprinciples of nature.

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3.3 Clean water conditions with sera pond filter systems

The sera pond filter W 1500



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The motors of the sera pond filters aremaintenance free and very economical. Thesera pond filters do an unobtrusively good

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job throughout the year. Of course, theymeet the strict VDE regulations and aretested by the TV and the ULC.


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Fountain and water outletwhen using the sera water height regulator

The sera Bio Pond Filter is available inthree different sizes holding 25, 35 and50 liters (6.6, 9.2 and 13.2 gal.). They aresuitable for ponds up to 5,000, 8,000, or10,000 liters (1,320, 2,110 or 2,650 gal.),respectively.It is installed in a suitable place near the

pond and run with a separate pump. Itslarge filter volume is filled with plastic fil-ter material to allow the beneficial bacte-ria to settle.

The sera Bio Pond Filters


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When cleaning the filter, youalso remove useful bacteria.After each cleaning, reacti-vate the filter medium bio-logically with sera KOI BIO-CLEAR to continue the break-down of waste products inthe pond.

serasiporaxpond

sludgeremovalvalve

honey-combstruc-turedplasticmaterial

water

inlet

filter mat

wateroutlet


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The sera 3 chamber biofilter is recom-mended for very large ponds and Koiponds. It has a 220 l (55 gal.) capacity. Thispond filter is also installed beside thepond.Before starting the filter, activate the filtermedia biologically with sera KOI BIOCLEAR,according to the instructions for use.We recommend sera siporax pond for

optimal biological filter performance.

The sera 3 chamber biofilter

Tip:Werecommendserasiporaxpondfortheserapondfilter

W1500, theseraBioPondFil-

ters,seraPressureFiltersTandseraPressureFiltersT+

UVSystemforoptimalbiolog-

icalfilterperformance.


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These biomechanical double-chamberedpressure filters have especially high filtervolumes of 11, 25, 40 or 50 liters (2.9, 6.6,10.5, 13.2 gal.). They are suitable for pondsup to 12,000 liters (3,170 gal.). They can eas-ily be buried in the ground and be hid-den. Nevertheless, filter maintenance andcleaning are very easy.

avoids parasites passing the clarifier in theshadow of particles. For this purpose thefilter should be located before the seraUVC Pond Clarifier in the water circuit. The

location of the pump is less important, justmake sure the pump cannot be clogged byparticles if it is installed before the filter.

Depending on construction and light per-formance the UV-C Clarifiers are suitablefor different flow rates. The range of UV-CClarifiers with different wattages makes iteasy for you to choose the correct per-formance for every pond.

Installation of a UVC Pond Clarifier is rec-ommended for preventing and combatingwater cloudiness and parasites. The seraUVC Pond Clarifier operates without any

chemicals and is easy to service.The appropriate order of pump, filter andUV-C Clarifier depends on the applicationrange:

The filter is installed behind the UV-C Clar-ifier in the water circuit for removing float-ing algae. By doing so, the bound algae areimmediately collected by the filter and areeasy to remove by cleaning the filter.

If the sera UVC Pond Clarifier is installedfor disinfection or support of a diseasetreatment it is important to removecloudiness before passing the clarifier. This

The sera Pressure Filters T and sera Pressure Filters T + UV System

The sera UVC Pond Clarifiers

The sera Pressure Filters consist of heavy-duty ABS-plastic and are also ideal foroperating a waterfall and the requiredwater pressures. They are equipped withconnectors for all common hose diame-ters.The new sera Pressure Filters T have beendesigned for the biomechanical filtrationof all ponds. The sera Pressure Filters T +UV System provide long-term clean water

by a high efficient UV System. You canincrease capabilities with a full electronicCEFT control unit.

Norms: TV GS IPX6 CE


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Using a lower setting than the maximumpump performance is not a problem, asthe longer time the water is exposed to

the UV light, the efficiency of the clarifieris increased.

Type

sera Pond UVC 8 (8 W)

sera Pond UVC 16 (16 W)sera Pond UVC 25 (25 W)



Pond size

4 8 m 3/ 5 10 yd3

8 16 m3

/ 10 21 yd3

12.5 25 m 3/ 16 32.5 yd3

1 5 3 0 m 3/ 19.6 39 yd3

27.5 55 m 3/ 36 72 yd3

Pump performance

max. 1,100 l/h (290 gal./h)

max. 2,000 l/h (528 gal./h)max. 3,300 l/h (870 gal./h)

max. 4,000 l/h (1,056 gal./h)

max. 7,300 l/h (1,928 gal./h)


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The robust, quiet and long life sera pumpsare suitable for operating the sera Bio

Pond Filter and the sera 3 chamber biofil-ter. You can choose from the followingtypes, depending on the pond size and therequired flow rate:

sera SP 1500 for smaller biotopes and gar-den ponds up to 10,000 l (2,650 gal.)

sera SB 2500 for larger ponds, brooksand waterfalls

sera SF 6000 / SF 9000 for large pondsand fish with high requirements

The new sera UV Systems guaranteelong-term clean pond water. They areabsolutely weatherproof (no trans-former included) and can be buried inthe ground, and out of sight, to maintainthe natural beauty of your pond.

Both models tolerate pres-sure up to 0.4 bar (e.g., 4 m /13 ft. waterfall height). This

allows you to use the outlet-water for additional filters,spouts, fountains, or brooks.

Norms: TV GS IPX6 CE

The sera UV Systems

The sera fountain and pond filter pumps


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sera volcano jet sera bell water jet

sera foaming bubble jet

sera star jet


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Type

Power

consumption,Supplyvoltage

Threadedconnection

Vertical rise:meters/feet

Maximum flowrate:liters/hour gal./hour

sera SP 1500

20 W230V/50Hz

1/2

H m/ft.

0/0

0.4/1.3

0.8/2.6

1.2/4

1.6/5

1.85/6

1,350/356

1,125/297

875/231

600/158

250/66

0/0

l/h gal./h l/h gal./h l/h gal./h l/h gal./h

sera SB 2500

35 W230V/50Hz

1

H m/ft.

0/0

0.5/1.6

1.0/3.2

1.5/4.9

2.0/6.5

2.5/8

2.9/9

2,820/745

2,300/607

1,800/475

1,350/356

900/237

550/145

0/0

sera SF 6000

90 W230V/50Hz

1

H m/ft.

0/0

0.5/1.6

1.0/3.2

1.5/4.9

2.0/6.5

2.5/8

3.2/10.5

5,880/1,553

4,900/1,294

3,900/1,030

2,800/739

1,850/488

1,200/317

0/0

sera SF 9000

125W230V/50Hz

1

H m/ft.

0/0

0.5/1.6

1.0/3.2

1.5/4.9

2.0/6.5

2.5/8

3.0/9.8

4.0/13

8,820/2,330

7,800/2,060

6,600/1,743

5,600/1,479

4,400/1,162

3,400/898

2,100/554

0/0

You can choose from severalfountain nozzles for the serafountain and pond filter pumps.You can make your choice fromdifferent atmospheric waterdisplays. The following types

are available:

sera calyx jet

The sera fountain nozzles


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Plants play a very important role in a wellfunctioning pond. Besides decorativeaspects they provide oxygen, hideouts andspawning places for the fish. Furthermore,they serve as nutrient competitors to theannoying algae. The large number of plantspecies allows a great variety of possibledesigns. We differentiate between sub-merged plants, floating leaf plants, floatingplants (their roots are not fixed in theground), plants for the swamp zone andplants for the marsh zone.

Some species and their category areshown on the following pages.Specialized retailers keep many morespecies in stock and provide you with qual-ified assistance for the right choice.Please do not remove any plants fromnature! This is forbidden by law in manycases, even if the growth place does notappear to be private property!

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waterweedElodea sp.takes roots quickly and enriches thewater with oxygen. Suitable for the firstplanting. water depth: up to 100 cm (40 in.)

growth height: exceeding 100 cm(40 in.)

hornwort(Ceratophyllum demersum)floats mostly in nutrient-rich,calm water water depth: up to 150 cm (59 in.) growth height: approx. 50 cm (20 in.)

water crowfoot / buttercup(Ranunculus circinatus)

water depth: up to 30 cm (12 in.) growth height: approx. 100 cm (40 in.)

bladderwort(Utricularia vulgaris)

water depth: up to 50 cm (20 in.) growth height: up to 50 cm (20 in.)

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These plants are important for the bio-logical equilibrium in the pond. They pro-vide the water with oxygen and breakdown pollutants.Rapid growing plants, especially hornwortand waterweed are direct nutrient com-petitors to algae and are therefore, highlyrecommended.

4.1 Submerged plants


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flowering rush(Butomus umbellatus)

flowering time: June August water depth: up to 30 cm (12 in.) growth height: 80 to 100 cm

(32 in. 40 in.)

geum / avens(Geum rivale)

flowering time: May June growth height: 30 cm (12 in.)

bog bean(Menyanthes trifoliata)to be planted at sunny spots! flowering time: May June

height: up to 30 cm (12 in.)

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4.2 Plants for swamp zones,shallow water and bank zones

The bank zones are the optical border ofyour pond and provide valuable livingspace for many animals. If you properlycompile the plants in these zones, you willenjoy a blooming splendor from spring toautumn. Arrange the plants so that thetallest species are at the back (seen fromthe main view). In that way your gardenpond will be gorgeously attractive.


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marsh marigold (Caltha palustris)mostly floating in nutrient-rich,calm waters flowering time: April June

growth height: approx. 30 to 40 cm(12 16 in.)

bog arum (Calla palustris)rhizomes without roots can also be letfloating free in the water. flowering time: May July growth height: up to 30 cm (12 in.)

swamp loosestrife (Lythrum salicaria)form bushes! flowering time: July September water depth: up to 20 cm (8 in.) growth height: up to 150 cm (59 in.)

Caution: In some countries swamp loose-strife (a.k.a. purple loosestrife) is consid-ered a noxious weed and may not bekept.

iris Iris sp.in nature this plant is protected! flowering time: May July

height: approx. 60 to 80 cm(24 32 in.)

water plantainAlisma sp. flowering time: June August height: approx. 60 to 80 cm (24 32 in.)

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The best known and most popular floatingleaf plants are water lilies. Make sure theydo not cover the light area needed by thesubmerged plants. We recommend re-stricting the floating leaf plants to a cer-tain area of the pond. If the plants out-grow the restricted area, reduce the leavesmoderately.Water lilies are among the most beautifulpond plants. Choose water lilies whose

size fits with your pond size, because thereare many varieties suited only to largeponds.Remove rotting spots from the roots be-fore planting. Your specialized retailer willgive you more tips for planting, hiberna-tion and care.

4.3 Floating leaf plants


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Beside the main pond is placed a canal,which is not accessible to the Koi. Thiscanal is planted with swamp plants intowhich the pond water is directed by apump. This plant filter replaces thebreakdown of nitrate by the submergedplants and the swamp zone; however, itdoes not replace the biological activity ofthe pond filter.

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Delicate and fragile plants are often eatenby large Koi within a short time; therefore,only robust species should be chosen.Large water lilies have proven best.As a swamp zone is problematic in the Koipond (see chapter 2.11 How to set up a Koipond), many pond owners have chosenanother solution:

4.4 Plants for the Koi pond


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The best time for planting is from spring tosummer (April to August). During this peri-od, the plants rapidly take root because ofthe higher water temperature. Your retail-er can also offer you the largest choiceduring this time.Submerged and floating leaf plants arebest grown in plant baskets, which can beeasily moved (e.g., by means of a longstick), even after they have been placed in

one location for a long time.These baskets should be first lined withfabric; then filled with coarse sand or grav-el. Afterwards, plants such as hornwort orwaterweed are placed inside.To support healthy and rapid plant growth,insert up to 4 tablets of sera florenette T(according to the plant and basket size)close to the roots. Then put the plantedbaskets into the garden pond at yourdesired location.

sera florenette T contains only minerals

and trace elements. It combines with the

existing nutrients, nitrate and phosphate,

which are always present in the pond, to

optimally nourish the plants.

Thus, sera florenette T ensures splendid

plant growth, and helps relieve the water

by preventing an overload of nutrient sup-

ply for the algae.

Swamp plants are planted directly into thegravel of the plant terrace.

4.5 How to plant correctly


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To stabilize the water conditions, a totalhardness (GH) of 6 16dH and a carbonatehardness (KH) of 5 10dH is very impor-tant. With KH values below 5dKH, drasticchanges of the pH value can occur. Withthe heavy growth of algae during summer,and acid rainfalls (in some rural areas, rain-water can have a pH value of 3.5!) the levelof carbonate hardness can drop rapidly.

We recommend checking the water hard-

ness regularly with the sera gH-Test and

the sera kH-Test. If necessary, increase it

with sera GH-KH plus to at least 6dGH and

5dKH.

You will find more information about

water maintenance in the sera guide Howto maintain and cultivate a garden pond.

Support the growth of your plants withsera florenette T. When the planting iscomplete, allow three weeks for your pondto rest. By then the plants have settled-inand you may carefully start introducingfish to the pond.

sera pond florena and sera florenette T arean ideal fertilizer combination for allaquatic plants. Fertilizer tablets sera flo-renette T strengthen the roots of plants.

sera pond florena ensures lush green,

splendid leaves.

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4.6 Stable water conditionswith sera GH-KH plus


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Buyers checklist 6

a. Tools and utensilsspadeshovelpointed hoe

cord for measuringleveling aid:

transparent hose asspirit-level orlong, straight board andspirit-level

plastic bucketbrush and roller for gluing the linerpieces (liner ponds only)

b. Pond construction materialBasic material:

finished pond orpond liner and glue

liner protection fabricslope mats

c. Bottom gravel and boundaryif desired, stones for the banksfine sand for the pit(below the liner)

bottom material: gravel orpebbles (ideal

with big fish suchas Koi)

d. Plant substrategravel or coarse sand

e. Care and water conditioningsera KOI PROTECT, sera KOI BIOCLEAR,sera crystalsera biopeat granulate, sera pond-morena, sera algenstop*sera pH-Test, sera gH-Test,

sera kH-Test, sera nitrite-Testsera KOI AQUA-TEST BOXsera pH-plus, sera pH-minus,sera GH-KH plus

f. Fish foodFood for goldfish

sera goldy, sera goldy Royal,sera goldy Color

sera food for Koisera KOI ROYAL STAPLE DIET,sera KOI COLOR, sera KOI SPIRULINA,sera KOI JUNIOR

Food for different speciessera bioflakes, sera biogranulat,sera mix royal, sera Sturgeon Granules

g. Vitaminssera KOI MULTIVITAMINsera activant

h. EquipmentFilters and Pond Clarifierssera pond filter W 1500sera Bio Pond Filterssera 3 chamber biofiltersera Pressure Filters Tsera Pressure Filters T + UV Systemsera UVC Pond Clarifierssera UV Systems

Pumpssera fountain pump SP 1500

sera fountain pump SB 2500sera pond filter pump SF 6000 / SF 9000

i. Plantssubmerged plantsfloating leaf plantsfloating plantsswamp plantsplants for the bank zone

j. Plant fertilizersera florenette Tsera pond florena

k. Other / Accessoriessera fish netsera fountain nozzlesfor the pond pump

l. Fish

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